10673234300 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Jorge from Miami, FL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10662129
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
The Freezer defrosted and everything on the top and the bottom spoiled
i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burned. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.
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- Customer:
- anthony from georgetown, IL
- Parts Used:
- WP628356
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Broken Piece
Had to disassemble ice maker to install part. . .
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- Customer:
- Rudolf from Lovington, NM
- Parts Used:
- W10181323
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
defrost pan overflowing
I removed screws to rear cardboard cover. I then removed the condensor fan by unscrewing the nut off the shaft. I then removed 4 screws holding the fan motor. I then replaced the motor and reversed the process.
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- Customer:
- Michael from East Meadow, NY
- Parts Used:
- W11384469
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
light not working in fridge
It was so easy!
Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.
I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!
Easy!
And I am not Mr. Fix-it!
Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.
I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!
Easy!
And I am not Mr. Fix-it!
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- Customer:
- Anthony from Billings, MT
- Parts Used:
- WPW10190929
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Black flecks in ice
The lining of the ice mold (Whirlpool) started flecking off (black flecks in the ice cubes), so I decided to replace the mold.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the connector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the connector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.
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- Customer:
- Thomas from Indianapolis, IN
- Parts Used:
- WP2187464
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
no power to the ice maker
The wiring harness was a straightfoward plug in replacement after depressing the securing tabs, and did provide power to the icemaker. However, the icemaker would continually cycle, with the mold heater on at all times. I suspect this is what caused the thermal fuse to blow in the first place. Rather than spend more time replacing individual components, I eneded up replacing the full ice maker assy. The new ice maker works properly.
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- Customer:
- Joseph from Rockwall, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP2218132K
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Running edges of meat drawer were cracked and broken from the door closing with the drawer open.
I slid out the old one and threw it away and slid in the new one. 10 second repair. The kind I like.
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- Customer:
- Alfred from NEWPORT, NC
- Parts Used:
- WP2315539
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Evaporator fan in freezer.
I took the old fan out and replaced it with the new one,right easy task.
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- Customer:
- Antonio from San Antonio, TX
- Parts Used:
- W11384469
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
All three lights are not working...lights are off but refrigerator still cooling. Also, the control box not lit up to show the temparture for freezer and refrigerator
Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.
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- Customer:
- JOSEPH from LINDENHURST, NY
- Parts Used:
- W10190935
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Icemaker Quit Making Ice
Removed the two screws that hold flaping door. Removed the single screw that covers the connecting wires. Disconnected the wiring plug. I wiggled out the ice maker. Took off the motor cover. Swapped out one motor for the other. Reinstalled the icemaker in the resverse order of removal. Note the wiring plug in the freeze is very from. It makine s the reconnection differcult.
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- Customer:
- Claude from Oakdale, CA
- Parts Used:
- 4317943
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Ice maker stopped working after less than six months
After checking all connections I determined the ice maker which had been replaced on 01/2007 stopped making ice. I had serviceman from a local company return and check the ice maker. He rinsed the ice maker under warm water, melting the ice build-up and re-installed the ice maker. I watched him do the re-installation, then waited for two days to see if the ice maker was functioning. Since the ice maker wasn't working, I called the serviceman, who in turn informed me that the replacement ice maker had increased in price from $170.00 to $274.00. That is when I contacted your web site, ordered the replacement ice maker.
I was totally amazed and pleased by the fast,
easy, and efficient way my order was processed and the ice maker was delivered.
I followed the instructions included with the ice maker, and installed the replacement ice maker in about 20 minutes. I can't thank you enough for the great service. I only wish I had checked my computer after the first ice maker broke down and found your web site.
I was totally amazed and pleased by the fast,
easy, and efficient way my order was processed and the ice maker was delivered.
I followed the instructions included with the ice maker, and installed the replacement ice maker in about 20 minutes. I can't thank you enough for the great service. I only wish I had checked my computer after the first ice maker broke down and found your web site.
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- Customer:
- NANCY from VALLEY VIEW, OH
- Parts Used:
- W10190935
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Water dispensed, but no ice.
We have a side-by-side and the tutorial was different than what we have. Had trouble getting cover off, but finally repaired and WE HAVE ICE! Also took longer than expected.
Saved a lot!
Saved a lot!
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- Customer:
- Monica from EDMOND, OK
- Parts Used:
- W10823511
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
water leaked when the paddel was pushed
Followed the video on parts page. I was worried I would brake the cover but learned from the video the right way to remove the front plate. I found the video very informing. Thank you for saving me a service call and the part cost was minimal compared to a new refrigerator .
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- Customer:
- Larry from CAMARILLO, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP2188808
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Leaky Inlet Valve and Ice Maker failing to make Ice
1). Pull Frig away from wall,
2). Unplug Frig
3). Turn off water feed
4). Remove cardboard dust shield on lower back
of frig (1/4" screws. I used socket)
5.) Valve visible attached with two1/4" screws to
Frig frame. (Remove two screws)Tip it is a good idea to hand tighten the two srews back into their original holes. This marks their placement for mounting the NEW valve later.
6.) Inlet Valve has three water lines attached to it
and two electrical clip-on wires.
7.) Stop work and take a picture of the Valve,
which clearly shows color coded clip-on wires
and hose connection ports.
8.) Take a break and study the photo next to
the NEW valve in order to insure an OEM
match.
9.). Note: Lines push directly into ports and then you need to pull them toward you, as though you were pulling them back out of the port. This will seat and seal the water lines with a tight fit.
Tip: Cut the old line about 2-3 inches away from the old valve and check that your cut is clean, before putting it in the portal of the replacement valve. Note: You only get it right the first time, so double check your cut is square with clean edges.
Look at the lines pointed straight at you to insure the plastic hose is still round. If it is oval or slightly creased at the edges, cut the hose with a razor blade or very sharp knife until it looks good and shove in fully, until it hits bottom, inside the NEW valve. Give a firm short pull and you will feel the hose seat almost immediately.
10.) Repeat the process with all three hoses
and take another short break. Look at your
photo to guide your color matching with the
Clip-on electrical connectors.
11.) Now remove the Clip-on electrical
connectors one at a time and place on the
NEW valve.
12.) Turn on the water feed line and check for
leaks. If NO leaking is detected, congratulate
yourself, and use two 1/4" screws to mount
the NEW valve to the frig frame. The two
screws you left hand tight in the frame, show
the way.
13.). Plug in the Frig. let everything settle in for 10
minutes, while you have a break for a small
bite/drink, use the bathroom, etc.
14.) Okay time to push the frig back against the
wall. Do you want to place the old dust
shield on the back of the frig? If you are
unsatisfied with the condition of the old one,
you might consider replacing it.
15.) My wife is good at crafts, so she chose to
use the old one as a template and made a
new cover out of material she had to buy.
16.). I should tell you that I had to do this job twice, because I bought a cheap valve online that looked exactly like what I needed. It failed to work with the ice maker and after three months, it started to leak. Once again I learned "you get what you pay for."
I hope this helps one or two people get it right on their first attempt.
Good Luck, Larry
2). Unplug Frig
3). Turn off water feed
4). Remove cardboard dust shield on lower back
of frig (1/4" screws. I used socket)
5.) Valve visible attached with two1/4" screws to
Frig frame. (Remove two screws)Tip it is a good idea to hand tighten the two srews back into their original holes. This marks their placement for mounting the NEW valve later.
6.) Inlet Valve has three water lines attached to it
and two electrical clip-on wires.
7.) Stop work and take a picture of the Valve,
which clearly shows color coded clip-on wires
and hose connection ports.
8.) Take a break and study the photo next to
the NEW valve in order to insure an OEM
match.
9.). Note: Lines push directly into ports and then you need to pull them toward you, as though you were pulling them back out of the port. This will seat and seal the water lines with a tight fit.
Tip: Cut the old line about 2-3 inches away from the old valve and check that your cut is clean, before putting it in the portal of the replacement valve. Note: You only get it right the first time, so double check your cut is square with clean edges.
Look at the lines pointed straight at you to insure the plastic hose is still round. If it is oval or slightly creased at the edges, cut the hose with a razor blade or very sharp knife until it looks good and shove in fully, until it hits bottom, inside the NEW valve. Give a firm short pull and you will feel the hose seat almost immediately.
10.) Repeat the process with all three hoses
and take another short break. Look at your
photo to guide your color matching with the
Clip-on electrical connectors.
11.) Now remove the Clip-on electrical
connectors one at a time and place on the
NEW valve.
12.) Turn on the water feed line and check for
leaks. If NO leaking is detected, congratulate
yourself, and use two 1/4" screws to mount
the NEW valve to the frig frame. The two
screws you left hand tight in the frame, show
the way.
13.). Plug in the Frig. let everything settle in for 10
minutes, while you have a break for a small
bite/drink, use the bathroom, etc.
14.) Okay time to push the frig back against the
wall. Do you want to place the old dust
shield on the back of the frig? If you are
unsatisfied with the condition of the old one,
you might consider replacing it.
15.) My wife is good at crafts, so she chose to
use the old one as a template and made a
new cover out of material she had to buy.
16.). I should tell you that I had to do this job twice, because I bought a cheap valve online that looked exactly like what I needed. It failed to work with the ice maker and after three months, it started to leak. Once again I learned "you get what you pay for."
I hope this helps one or two people get it right on their first attempt.
Good Luck, Larry
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- Customer:
- David from NASHUA, NH
- Parts Used:
- 4317943
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Ice maker stopped working. Thought it might be the timer. Actually teflon coating coming off.
Removed the ice maker. Used a small mirror (wife's make up mirror) to find the screws. Inspected and found most teflon coating missing. Ordered new ice maker and installed. Works perfect.
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