10652603100 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

The CAUSE of the LEAK were the O-rings on the water filter itself. My son followed others suggestions on how to detach the water hose from the filter housing, advise was helpful. After replacing the water filter housing, helpful, and inflow water tube the leak was still there. So my son then inspected the water filter and replaced. Water filter light was still green so we did not think it needed attention.

First I installed a defrost timer, (the old timer had burnt out contacts in it) It seemed to work for a few days, then went back to not comng out of defrost cycle, I then installed a defrost thermostat. It seems to be working better than before. I found out that maybe I wasn't running it cold enough. So I turned it up colder. Now it works ok for 2 - 3 days, then I check the Temp in the freezer and its up to 6o. So I manually reset the timer and it works for 2 - 3 days. Don't know what to do now to fix it.

I removed the screws on the upper hinge and removed the door. I removed the lower cam in about 2 minutes and had it replaced. The upper cam was a tight fit in the door and I resorted to vise-grips to remove it. Total time to replace cams and put the door back on was 30 minutes. This saved me $100.
Thanks

Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for leak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.

The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.

Review the video on parts select. Do this first!

The actual repair took less than 30 minutes, including pulling out the refrigerator, performing the repair, and replacing the refrigerator.

Remove the screws holding the cardboard backing to the bottom rear of the refrigerator. Remove the screws holding the pump in place. Remove the electrical connectors and the water hoses from the pump. I needed the wrench to disconnect and reconnect the main inlet hose. Hook everything back up (the sizes of hoses and connectors are different). Replace the cardboard backing. Done!!

I would use Parts Direct again.

Snapped the large end of the coupling onto the main line coming from the water source and snapped the other end onto the small line leading to the ice maker. Quick and simple.

Unplugged refrigerator. Used nut driver to remove small bolt retaining wire cover on right side of ice maker. Removed wire cover, used flat head screw driver to depress side-rail clips. Ice maker slid out, unplugged. Timer module cover pops off easily. Three screws removed the timer module. Installation was reverse of removal. Had ice in less than an hour, bin was full by next morning. If you have a screw driver and know what it's for, this job should come easily.

part arrived within 24 hours.
1. remove plastic front of freezer door water and ice dispenser by looking at bottom edge of plastic for two slots within which to place a stiff scraper blade. very difficult to pop loose and very fragile plastic so take care not to break it. it just pops off two spots on the bottom side and hangs from the top no screws or anything.
2. remove the two screws holding the water dispenser spout in place. oh yeah don't forget to turn the water off.
3. this is a long plastic water tube that runs from the dispenser thru a plastic tube channel set in the solid foam core of the door thru the bottom hinge and connects to the water inlet junction.
a. this replacement must be pulled from the dispenser area thru the door and out the bottom but it will not fit without cutting off the end of the spout. the hole in the hinge that it passes thru at the bottom of the door is to tight to allow anything other than the thickness of the tubing.
b. pull the spout end of the tubing upward after disconnecting at the bottom in front behind the air grill. if it moves freely you are in luck - if it does not move freely then it is taped in place on the back of the dispenser area and now that whole assembly has to be unscrewed from the front of the freezer door in order to remove the tape so that the tubing can be pulled thru.
4. once the tubing pulls easily as short distance in either direction it is time to attach the new tubing to the old tubing and pull it out the bottom of the door. i tried to use tape but it pulled off when i got to the door hinge on the bottom and it would not fit thru the hinge.
a. on my model even one layer of tape would not fit thru the hinge. so i put some bricks under the freezer door to hold it up and removed the bottom hinge off of the tubing that was disconnected only a short distance away.
5. use tape or place a screw with the head removed into both the old tubing and the new tubing so it can be pulled from the bottom moving the new tubing into place.
mine broke off in the middle of this process and i had to remove the freezer door. take it completely apart to expose the conduit the tubing slides thru, then run an electrical fish tape thru the conduit and drag the new tubing thru, not a fun process but doable - just takes a bunch of extra time.
6. once the tubing was out the bottom i could then simply thread it thru the hinge easily and reassemble everything.

I removed the glides under the edges of the meat pan, remove the old pan, put the new pan in and replaced the glides. I was very pleased with PartSelect. I ordered my part, and it arrived the very next day. I will definitely order my next replacement part thru PartSelect.

Mine is a simple tale of the missing ice cube dispensor guide. When we moved, the guide was missing so when I built our new home with a kitchen in the basement I wanted to hook up the ice dispensor but when I did, the ice cubes always fell off to one side. I decided to order the misssing part on-line. I ordered it paid for it and then received it the next day-wonderful. Within ten minutes, I was ready to go. Thanks for great service. Rick Davis, Bloomington, IL.

I installed the new cap on a new filter, which I will install when the old filter needs replacing. No tools required, but it is sometimes difficult to turn the filter cc wise, when replacing.

This was a pretty easy repair...I removed the retaining screws and slid the assembly off its tracks. Disconneting the wiring hardness was a pain but after a few minutes I had that off (use gloves, it gets cold in the freezer after a minute)

Once I had the unit completely out of the freezer the replacement part took only minutes to replace.

Reversed the process putting the ice maker back in - a few hours later my ice buck was full again.

Simple repair - well worth the effort.

removed screws that held the ice maker in place, then removed the cover (popped off) The drive element was easy to remove, three screws and it was out. I put in the new part and reinstalled the icemaker with the three screws that hold it in place. I never call Sears for any repair. They use contract help and I have heard horror stories about those guys!

Turn off water supply too ice maker and unplug the fridge power. using a nut driver remove one bottom screw from the bottom, near the front. The other two from the side atop the ice mold. (loosen screws and ice maker will lift up and off.)
I set the ice maker on the counter, snapped of the front cover by hand. using a phillips driver, remove two screws near the bottom corners.(they go through the circuit board into the ice mold)
circuit board in one hand, other end of ice mold in the other, slowly pull apart about 1 inch. remove the silver colored "on, off" bar at the end by snapping the retainer out of the ice mold. (the silver bar stays with the circuit board end)
Watch how the ice guide(white fingers stationary on side of ice mold) hooks too the ice mold on each end. swap ice guide to new ice mold, insert three guide pins on end into holes on the circuit board, while holding ice guide onto ice mold, watch rotation bar while inserting into motor.(it only splines one way.) when each piece is lined up, simply push together and reinstall two screws. snap circuit board cover into place. reinstall ice maker into freezer in reverse order.

After unplugging the appliance I removed acess cover on back of fridge with a screwdriver, pulled the overload start device straight off the compressor, unplugged the red/ white factory pre-terminated conductors and replaced the bad start device. Took about 2 minutes. You must remove as much of the dust and lint from condenser element to keep this from happening again since heat will build up and fry the overload again.