36268 (P1115704W) Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

For the icemaker, I removed the ice tray and loosesned the two attaching screws(1/4"). I removed the lower bracket and then removed the ice dispenser motor cover below the ice maker. This made it easier to remove the wiring harness. After removing the icemaker from the refrigerator, I swapped out the wiring harness and ice detector bracket (wire bail that swings). Hooked things back up and went on to the water valve. All in all about 15 minutes and pretty easy.
For the ice valve, you must turn off the water supply, disconnect the power plug and move the refrigerator away from the wall. (Now's a good time to clean out under and behind the unit!) Remove the valve from the base with the 1/4" nut driver. Remove the inlet line(standard hose fitting).Have a sponge handy. Remove and replace the new valve in the bracket by popping the clip off and on the new one. Replace one outlet line and electrical connection at a time (easier to keep track of). Replace unit on base and check for leaks before replacing refrigerator. Other than cleaning, the task took about 20 min. and was simple. The cleaning, on the other hand...

Tried to repair existing valve which I have succesfully done many times by cleaning and removing grit from internal neoprene parts until new parts received. Was not successful. New valve worked perfectly. this is only 2nd repair needed on this ref. since new. 1st was defrost timer. Ice maker hasn't missed a lick since new.

First I turned the water off behind the refrigerator....took the ice maker inlet valve off, put on the new one. As simple as that & it is working beautifully....not only am I a woman but 55 yrs. young too!
With the right part & right tools NOTHING is impossible & I saved myself a repair persons fee!!!

pulled cover off back of refrigerater at the water line,shut water off removed water line,check for pressure at the line by puting the line into a 5 gallon bucket it was ok.took the dispencer lines off that goes up to dispencer,hit dispencer switch could hear buzzing at the dispencer unit but no pressure.so i replace water inlet valve

Pulled out the fridge fro the wall, unpluged it, turned off the water supply to the house, disconnected the water line to the part, installed new part and re-attached the wires and ground, turned on the water - no leaks, plugged in the fridge - ice maker begand to fill and has continued to work.

Easy as pie. Will contact you again if I have other appliance problems.

Paul M, Seattle WA

First of all I want to thank Michael from Carlisle,PA and this site for publishing Michael's info on the wiring specifics on the new 3 connector Start Relay ( WP2262185 ). The original relay only has 2 connectors The 2 orange wires which are combined to one female connector need to be clipped and separated each to its own connector. Refer to Michael's blog as to which wire goes to which connector on the Start Relay. I replaced the Run Capacitor, Start Relay and Overload just to be safe. The Start Relay was the actual culprit.Thank you for an excellent website!

Remove 1 screw under ice maker. Gently pull downwards to unhook ice maker. Disconnected 4 pin wire connector. Remove and set aside the cover and wire loop you will need on new ice maker. Reverse the steps to install new maker. Once new ice maker is installed you will have to wait 2-4 hours for ice. There is a thermostat that will need to reach 10 degrees F to operate.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Remove two screws from top door hinge.
Remove door from unit
Remove old broken plastic cam 1 screw
Replace new door cam tighten 1 screw
Reinstall door and top hinge screws.

Super easy - emptied door of all food, unscrewed bracket from top of door, lifted door off and set aside. Broken cam removed, new one screwed in, and lubed with some Vaseline. Set door back in new cam, screwed bracket into the top, and good to go. I was kinda worried about shopping from PartSelect since I had never heard about them, but the part was here in less than 2 days. Pretty awesome little company.

unplugged the power and removed the cardboard back Unplugged the part and power from the side of the compressor Plugged the power and new part back in to the side of the compressor and replaced the clamp Plugged in the power cord to the wall outlet and the refrigerator started to hum Job done Thanks

Very easy to order from parts select. Took seconds to replace.

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

0. Tools required: small Phillips screw driver and a normal length 3/16th inch Nut Driver. Some duct tape would be handy as well - for securing the wiring housing out of the way.

1. Unplug the refrigerator or trip the controlling circuit breaker to remove the possibility of an unpleasant surprises such as electrical shock, electrical arc, further damage to the refrigerator, burns to yourself, or death.

3. Remove the two small Philips-head screws located on the under side of the bezel surrounding the ice and water dispenser.

3. Carefully lift, pull, and remove the bezel.

4. Note the locations and relative positions of all the components behind the bezel. A digital photograph (or three) from various angles for future reference when reassembling the dispenser would be a good idea - if a camera is available.

3. Remove the two screws that hold the plastic housing and metal shroud containing wiring and switches. Tape the shroud and housing together and tie or tape it out of the way. If you ignored step #1, make sure you tape both the plastic tray and the metal shroud together as they were installed so that you cover any exposed wires or connectors inside the plastic housing. All the switches will still be "hot" and can cause the dispensers to activate at unexpected and mostly inconvenient times.

4. Slip the ice door damper spring (wire loop) off the ice door mechanism. Do not abruptly push or pull on the damper spring loop when it is disconnected from the door mechanism - you may damage it.

5. Remove the two screws that hold the retaining tabs in place for the water dispenser activator; the two screws that hold the retaining tabs in place for the ice dispenser activator; and the two screws that hold the spring-loaded ice door-closing mechanism in place. That is a total of six screws: four retaining tab screws for the activators and the two screws retaining the spring-loaded ice door mechanism.

6. Slip the water dispenser activator arm down, off the water feed tube, and put it aside.

7. Remove the ice dispenser activator arm and spring-loaded ice door- closing mechanism as a unit and note how it is fitted together. Then remove and put aside the ice door and closing mechanism. Save the spring-loaded ice door closing mechanism for reinstallation with the new dispenser

8. Reinstall the new water dispenser activator arm over the water feed tube and reinstall the metal tabs and tab retaining screws.

9. Assemble the new ice dispenser arm and the existing spring-loaded ice door- closing mechanism as you noted it to be during the disassembly process.

10. Reinstall the new ice dispenser activator arm and spring-loaded ice door closing mechanism. It seemed easier to secure the dispenser activator with the screws and metal tabs first and then the spring-loaded ice door closing mechanism.

11. Reinstall the plastic housing containing the electrical components and the metal shroud and secure in place with the two screws that were removed in Step #3. Restore electrical power to the system.

12. Test both the water dispenser and ice dispenser for proper operation. If both dispensers appear to operate correctly, reinstall the bezel with the two small Philips screws and you are done.

13. If either of the dispensers does not work, you will have to trouble shoot the problem. A common problem seemed to be that the activator arm was not making contact with the switch in the plastic housing. You will have to go back and ensure that all the components are properly installed - there are no other adjustments and simply pushing harder on the actuator may break the newly installed part.

All the screws and components are easily accessible, so I think that the entire repair process should take about 30 to 45 minutes unless Step 12 fails and Step 13 is required. Then it may take a couple hours to figure out and get things set right.

First turned off the water and unplugged the refrigerator and then removed the old ice maker by first removing the side cover plate and then next removed the ice level detector. Remove the screws that hold the ice maker in place and rotating it somewhat soas to gain access to the wires and then unplugged them. Next I had to modify the way the water comes into the new icemaker by adapting a CPVC street ell to fit into the hole on the side and then hook up the water supply. Installation is just the reverse of removal.