1066680220 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Popped the old one out with a kitchen knife and popped the new one back in. It tool less than 15 seconds!!

My owners manual said to unplug fridge from elec outlet, use a kitchen knife to gently pry off the switch plate
(manual had a pictoral example), unclip the two wire, replace with on new switch and replace the switch. Close
door and plug back in. Open door to check that the lite
works. Walla! It did. Thanks!

Sincerely, Ron Marshall, Billings, MT

Part # had been replaced with another timer. Original timer had 2 wires coming out of it. Replacement only had 1 wire. Instructions showed 2 options for where to place the wire. I chose option 2 and I guess I was right. Installation took less than 15 minutes and refridge is back to normal. (Quiet)

I pried the old one out with a screw driver and pushed the new one in. I expected instructions in the box it came in but there were none.

yup

Please bear in mind I am 65 years old & it was harder to get up & down off the floor then to change the switch. Was very easy - watched video, unplugged unit. I used the putty knife at the right front corner to work loose, when it came loose had to loose the left side a little. The unit pulled out easily. detached the wired that had a single plug with 2 prongs on it. Attached the plug, pushed new switch into place. There was no way you could place wires on wrong prong. When done, plugged refrigerator back in & checked if working. I CAN SEE THE LIGHT and the food in the freezer now. Thank you for making an easy repair.

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch

First I watched the video on your website, it was quite helpful. It showed me the location of the part to be replaced. Then I used the nut driver to remove a couple of screws, and slowly pulled the cover off . Once I pulled the cover down I could see the part that needed replacing, it had a couple of phillips head screws holding it in place, I removed those screws and unplugged the defrost timer, taking note of the color of the wires. Then I took the new defrost timer and attached the loose wire to the correct terminal according to the directions(this is where the color of your wires comes in), then I plugged in the new defrost timer and replaced the screws. I then reattached the cover making sure not to pinch any of the wires, and replaced the screws. It was so easy I was sure I did something wrong and it wouldn't work, but I plugged the refrigerator back in and let it sit for about 20 minutes and then when I checked it was running cool. I'm 55 years old and never had the nerve to try anything like this before but since my husband passed away I've had to try things myself or replace a lot of appliances. If I can do it anyone can.

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.

We wasted time looking for the electrical schematic on our refrigerator (the first step in the instructions). By skipping that and reading further in the instructions, the type of cooling that the refrigerator has can easily be determined by the colors of the wires that go to the defrost timer. You need to know this to set up the timer properly for your specific refrigerator. Had I just started there, the entire repair would have taken less than 10 minutes. Very simple repair and it works like a charm, no more water coming into the refrigerator and the ice cream is rock hard. Glad we didn't have to spend lots on a new appliance. Thanks Part Select.com! BH

I just followed the enclosed instructions

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

Followedinstructions that came with kit. Kit parts were unnecessary as new valve fit in exactly as old one had been. Quick connect for flow out of valve to maker was a surprise as no threaded connection present and no nut necessary; simiply push the line into place. Reconnect water line, check for leaks and refasten back covering. Instructions with kit contained an incorrect drawing of connecting water outflowline; a one page addition verbally gave correct info, but detailed step by step instruction for this one connection was confusing. Otherwise, could not have been easier; surely a do-it-yourself project.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.