10653254201 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the screws on the upper hinge and removed the door. I removed the lower cam in about 2 minutes and had it replaced. The upper cam was a tight fit in the door and I resorted to vise-grips to remove it. Total time to replace cams and put the door back on was 30 minutes. This saved me $100.
Thanks

Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for leak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.

The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.

Unplugged refrigerator. Used nut driver to remove small bolt retaining wire cover on right side of ice maker. Removed wire cover, used flat head screw driver to depress side-rail clips. Ice maker slid out, unplugged. Timer module cover pops off easily. Three screws removed the timer module. Installation was reverse of removal. Had ice in less than an hour, bin was full by next morning. If you have a screw driver and know what it's for, this job should come easily.

Snapped the large end of the coupling onto the main line coming from the water source and snapped the other end onto the small line leading to the ice maker. Quick and simple.

I installed the new cap on a new filter, which I will install when the old filter needs replacing. No tools required, but it is sometimes difficult to turn the filter cc wise, when replacing.

I removed the glides under the edges of the meat pan, remove the old pan, put the new pan in and replaced the glides. I was very pleased with PartSelect. I ordered my part, and it arrived the very next day. I will definitely order my next replacement part thru PartSelect.

Mine is a simple tale of the missing ice cube dispensor guide. When we moved, the guide was missing so when I built our new home with a kitchen in the basement I wanted to hook up the ice dispensor but when I did, the ice cubes always fell off to one side. I decided to order the misssing part on-line. I ordered it paid for it and then received it the next day-wonderful. Within ten minutes, I was ready to go. Thanks for great service. Rick Davis, Bloomington, IL.

removed screws that held the ice maker in place, then removed the cover (popped off) The drive element was easy to remove, three screws and it was out. I put in the new part and reinstalled the icemaker with the three screws that hold it in place. I never call Sears for any repair. They use contract help and I have heard horror stories about those guys!

After unplugging the appliance I removed acess cover on back of fridge with a screwdriver, pulled the overload start device straight off the compressor, unplugged the red/ white factory pre-terminated conductors and replaced the bad start device. Took about 2 minutes. You must remove as much of the dust and lint from condenser element to keep this from happening again since heat will build up and fry the overload again.

Really simple clear instructions with photos. With this the repair was quick and easy simply remove the bad relay and replace with the correct one. Great delivery time with terrific instructions.

I removed 4 screws holding the motor mounting bracket and removed the assy from the unit. I then removed 3 screws holding the motor to the bracket. I put the fan blade on the new motor and reattached the motor to the bracket. I plugged in the wiring adapter to the motor and reinstalled the bracket in the unit with the 4 screws. Finally I attached the unit wiring connector to the motor.
It was relatively easy.

First of all, you must remove two screws in the fridge compartment, and then remove the back panel in the freezer compartment which snaps off easily.

Then, you must push the four clips on the back of the diffuser together from the freezer side so that it slips out the fridge side.

Make sure to remember the parts as they come out, and re-connect them as needed to complete the repair.

This repair did not fix my fridge and so I'm drinking bourbon and trying to figure out how to fix this giant Kitchenaid piece of crap that freezes my beer.

Damn.

ridiculous how a tiny plastic broken part required a full motor assembly replacement. that being said, i went online, found this website and easily identified the part i needed to order. i was impressed when it arrived within a couple of days. removing the old motor and replacing the new was a piece of cake...and i am NOT mechanically inclined,

I watched several video's on youtube that showed me how to replace the parts. Just Google "how to fix my freezer". I figured the only problem was the freezer Thermistor so I only replaced it. The refrigerator has one to. Instantly the freezer went back to Zero degrees and the defroster works fine after melting all the ice in the bottom. Make sure the drain hole is cleared. I ordered the bi-metal thermostat just in case but I don't need it. Be sure and position the thermistor down in the freezer rail on the right side just to where you can see it in the first opening and pull it back up out of sight and tape it to the wall where it comes through from the air baffle. It's important that it's 7.8 " down from the top of the freezer. Happy now, Freezer 0, refrigerator 37. This thing use to run all the time, I'm saying electricity now.

I removed the cover for the lower part of the refrigerator to inspect the wiring and motor. I removed the switch and removed the wiring from it. The wiring just plugs in. When the new switch arrived, I just reinstalled it to the side of the motor and the refrigerator has been working fine ever since.