10663192301 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Michael from East Meadow, NY
- Parts Used:
- W11384469
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
light not working in fridge
It was so easy!
Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.
I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!
Easy!
And I am not Mr. Fix-it!
Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.
I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!
Easy!
And I am not Mr. Fix-it!
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- Customer:
- Rudolf from Lovington, NM
- Parts Used:
- W10181323
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
defrost pan overflowing
I removed screws to rear cardboard cover. I then removed the condensor fan by unscrewing the nut off the shaft. I then removed 4 screws holding the fan motor. I then replaced the motor and reversed the process.
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- Customer:
- anthony from georgetown, IL
- Parts Used:
- WP628356
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Broken Piece
Had to disassemble ice maker to install part. . .
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- Customer:
- Anthony from Billings, MT
- Parts Used:
- WPW10190929
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Black flecks in ice
The lining of the ice mold (Whirlpool) started flecking off (black flecks in the ice cubes), so I decided to replace the mold.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the connector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the connector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.
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- Customer:
- Reinhold from Cheshire, CT
- Parts Used:
- WP2315576
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
No ice was being made
I looked up the refrigerator on the internet and found this website. I got the diagram of the parts of the icemaker and found that the valve must be defective because no water was coming up to the icemaker.
I ordered the part which came the next day. Took out the screws, conected the water line to the new part. moved the electrical connection to the new part and we had ice. Saved a lot of money that the plumber would have cost.
I ordered the part which came the next day. Took out the screws, conected the water line to the new part. moved the electrical connection to the new part and we had ice. Saved a lot of money that the plumber would have cost.
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- Customer:
- Leo from EAGLE, WI
- Parts Used:
- WPW10189703
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The old motor has built in wire harness. The new motor has connectors on it.
Remove and clean out everything from the freezer and unplug the refrigerator. Take out the wire shelf in the freezer. (The fan motor is behind the back wall of the freezer, SO YOU CAN KEEP THE REFRIGERATOR CLOSED). Pop off the little cover on the center of the plastic shroud. Remove the little screw and carefully remove the plastic shroud. Remove the plastic cover for the optional ice maker on the upper left corner of the back wall. Take out the two screws in the upper corners on the back wall of the freezer and the last two screws holding the fan motor. The fan motor won't drop, remove the back wall and you will see two screws holding the motor mount. Remover those two screws, and pop the bracket out and separate.Take the two rubber motor mounts off the ends of the old motor and install them on the new motor. (Now you will have to cut the wires off the old motor), unplug the little wire harness, strip the ends and crimp on wire connectors to plug them onto your new motor. Its an AC motor so it shouldn't matter which hot goes on which of the two terminals. JUST MAKE SURE THE GROUND IS CORRECT! (After reinstalling the motor, plug in the refrigerator, turn it on before installing the shroud and make sure the fan is blowing outward. If all is correct, turn the refrigerator off, unplug and finish assembling the freezer. I found the new motor seems to run more efficiently than the old one.
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- Customer:
- Joseph from Rockwall, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP2218132K
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Running edges of meat drawer were cracked and broken from the door closing with the drawer open.
I slid out the old one and threw it away and slid in the new one. 10 second repair. The kind I like.
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- Customer:
- Thomas from Indianapolis, IN
- Parts Used:
- WP2187464
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
no power to the ice maker
The wiring harness was a straightfoward plug in replacement after depressing the securing tabs, and did provide power to the icemaker. However, the icemaker would continually cycle, with the mold heater on at all times. I suspect this is what caused the thermal fuse to blow in the first place. Rather than spend more time replacing individual components, I eneded up replacing the full ice maker assy. The new ice maker works properly.
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- Customer:
- duncan from HOWELL, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WP2315576
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
old valve was not shutting off fully, flooding ice-maker, creating a glacier
Shut off water supply, removed old valve (two screws, 1/4' nut driver), disconnect electrical plug, remove water lines (adjustable wrench). Cut fitting off tube to ice-maker (new unit has a push-to-connect fitting). Replace water lines and electrical connector. Mount valve back on cabinet. Turn water back on.
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- Customer:
- JOSEPH from LINDENHURST, NY
- Parts Used:
- W10190935
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Icemaker Quit Making Ice
Removed the two screws that hold flaping door. Removed the single screw that covers the connecting wires. Disconnected the wiring plug. I wiggled out the ice maker. Took off the motor cover. Swapped out one motor for the other. Reinstalled the icemaker in the resverse order of removal. Note the wiring plug in the freeze is very from. It makine s the reconnection differcult.
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- Customer:
- Antonio from San Antonio, TX
- Parts Used:
- W11384469
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
All three lights are not working...lights are off but refrigerator still cooling. Also, the control box not lit up to show the temparture for freezer and refrigerator
Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.
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- Customer:
- Frances from TUNNEL HILL, GA
- Parts Used:
- W11338583
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The light was blown
I turned the light bulb into the socket
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- Customer:
- NANCY from VALLEY VIEW, OH
- Parts Used:
- W10190935
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Water dispensed, but no ice.
We have a side-by-side and the tutorial was different than what we have. Had trouble getting cover off, but finally repaired and WE HAVE ICE! Also took longer than expected.
Saved a lot!
Saved a lot!
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- Customer:
- David from SHARPSBURG, GA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10189703
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Refrigerator would not cool down. Evaporator fan inop.
Unplug, then remove shelving and rear panel. Remove fan motor, swap wired and install new motor. Reinstall in reverse order. Plug back in and verify the fan is running. Easy and nothing special. Only thing I would caution is they use a foam runner to the refrigerator that may be iced up. Carefully clean the ice out before reinstalling everything. A follow up note. If the fan has not been running, Ice will build up in the drain tube. When you start up the refrigerator, you will see water dripping into the lower shelf. This is easy to fix. Unplug refrigerator and disassemble to where you can see the coils. There will be ice on the bottom covering the drain line hole. You will need to carefully chip away the ice, then use a hair dryer to melt the ice. Carefully use a pointed tool to push in the drain tube until the water drains. Go slow and be patient. Heat is your friend when doing this.
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- Customer:
- Monica from EDMOND, OK
- Parts Used:
- W10823511
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
water leaked when the paddel was pushed
Followed the video on parts page. I was worried I would brake the cover but learned from the video the right way to remove the front plate. I found the video very informing. Thank you for saving me a service call and the part cost was minimal compared to a new refrigerator .
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