25361512400 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

pulled down the thermostat cover and unpluged the timer control and replaced it with the new part. total time to repair was about 15 min. there was a vidio on how to replace the new part that just informed me that I did it right!!!!very easy site to find what you are looking for!!!!

Just followed the online instruction video .It was very easy.

You guys at Partselect are the best!!! Went to your site, typed in my appliance symptoms, and received possible fixes. Ordered the suggested parts (under $50) on a Sunday night and got em Tuesday am. Installed the easiest one first and Voila!!!! Frig is working great. Thanks Bob S

Remove 4 screws that hold up overhead controls, this is also the part that holds the light. Unplug the timer and replace. Super simple and runs great now. After you plug it in it may take a few minutes to kick on the compressor but it will. Also I was pleased it was a factory Frigidare part. Price was right.

When I was moving the refrig. handles from one side to the other...I broke one of the mounts. It was SO easy to order from this place, and they ship IMMEDIATELY. Second time I have used them, and am VERY impressed.

Replaced thermo-fuse

The freezer was still making ice, but the fridge portion was barely cooler than room temp. I came to the website and saw that the defrost thermostat cured this problem over half the time. I was quite dubious because I don't see how that would affect the non-freezer part of the compartment, but since it was a cheap and easy-looking repair, I figured what the heck, lets see if that's it. Sure enough, it's like new again. I still don't understand it, but I'll take it. The repair itself is simple, just cutting out the old switch and splicing in the new. Two wires, and clip it to the copper tubing where the old one was. The switch is accessed easily after taking out four screws in the back of the freezer compartment. The only hard part was removing the ice-maker, and that's just because the two screws that hold it in are a little hard to get a good grip on. Alas, you have to get the ice-maker out to pull out the back panel, so there's nothing for it but to wheedle those screws out.

I hesitate to say anything since I did exactly what their video told me to do, and it fixed the problem. Couldn't be happier. Was positive I was looking at 1000$ for a new fridge. Love being able to fix it by installing 15$ part myself. Thanks guys.

First of all I am 78YO, retired. Handy but NOT a handyman. There were two parts to replace. The Defrost Timer was very very easy and went just like the video. 20 minutes at the most. No surprises with only the most basic tools. The Defrost Thermostat was a little trickier. Took about 1 1/2 hours. The Thermostat disconnect plug was not like the video and was stuck hard. Had to use two needle nose pliers to finally get it apart. The rest went OK. The shrink seals were way too large for the job and my Hair Dryer was not able to shrink them enough for a good seal. Used a much smaller shrink seal that a friend had and it worked great. Suggest they use a smaller shrink that works with a hair dryer instead off the blow gun in the video. Wrapped the connection with electrical tape as others have suggested in addition to the Shrink Seal. Went together easy and am very very happy camper. Saved $295 from the Sears Repair Estimate. Dave

watched vido on your site

My unit was not defrosting. Defrost heater was not functioning. Defrost heater tested good with a meter. Thermostat (cold) tested bad with a meter. Defrost timer was working properly. I replaced the thermostat but I had to buy red crimp connectors because the blue ones that came with the thermostat are designed for wire bigger than 18 AWG wire. The thermostat leads as well as the wire in my unit were 18 AWG. The crimp was not tight enough for my liking with the blue butt connectors. I also purchased smaller heat shrink tubing. After replacement, the defrost heater started working. I could see it glowing. Unfortunately immediately after getting the heater working the contacts in the defrost timer arced and stuck together thus preventing the timer from exiting defrost mode. The heater went off at this point indicating that the thermostat was now working. I then purchased and replaced the defrost timer and now the fridge is functioning properly. I noticed both replacement parts, even though I looked up my fridge model, were different part numbers than the originals. I'm guessing the new parts are improved? I also noticed the timer was an 8/30 rather than a 10/30 like the original. The fridge is working better than when it was new so evidently defrosting every 8 as opposed to every 10 hours is better for my unit.

Long story short:

Buy the correct crimp/butt connectors before beginning replacement of the thermostat and proactively replace the defrost timer since it is rather inexpensive.

Defros timer was easy I finished it in about 15 minuts but the defrost themostat was hard.I had ploblems with the wire conectors and the tape I had to use Twist-on wire connectors.I hope I will not have problems later.So far 1 week later it is working.I can't belive $50 saves me $600.Thanks to Part Select for the video and how fast they shipping my parts in less than 2 days.

The website said 60% of people with same refrigerator problem solved the problem with a new fan kit. I received the fan kit within 3 days of ordering. Was shipped from Fresno, CA to Long Beach, WA. The fan kit was to be installed behind rear panel in the freezer compartment. When I removed the old fan motor, I noticed the shaft turned harder than the new fan motor, suggesting a problem with the old fan motor. I plugged in the obvious fan motor power bundle with no problem. The instructions and diagram with the kit nearly steered me wrong. Instructions, diagram and splices with the kit instructed to cut the "extra" wire bundle and splice "similar" wires (should have said same color wires). Luckily, I ignored those instructions when I remembered the U-Tube video depicted the extra wire bundle was to be inserted into a factory penetration in the back panel, facing the freezer compartment. This power bundle is for adding an ice maker, which my refrigerator did not have. When reassembled and the refrigerator restarted, I could immediately feel forced air in the refrig, where there was no flow before fixing. I observed that all the refrig and freezer dials do is act like a valve to increase or decrease air flow to the compartments. The dials have no mechanical or electrical connections, just designed to divert air flow from across the cold 'evaporator' fins. I recommend other consumers to remember carefully what they see in the video and watch again if stumped during the job. The video was better than the instructions which may have been written in China or India. I am happy. Repair was a lot cheaper than a new refrigerator and I would not have bought another Frigidaire. Thanks to this website. r. andersen

Using your online troubleshooter, it was probably the defrost timer and/or the defrost thermostat. Both cheap so I ordered both. The online repair videos showed how to replace those parts. Replaced the timer first with no problems. Removed the panel at the freezer back an saw a streak of black smoke on the white panel wall above the thermostat. Good chance this was the failure point. Video also showed how to replace this unit without any problem. Set the temperature control and let the frig run over night. Problem solved!frig at 38d and freezer at 0d.

The instructions given to me by part Select were very good.I replaced the Timer- checked the heater with oham meter it was good- checked the door weather striping it was good and replaced the thermostat with new .So at this point I may need to call a professional unless some one has another solution.