1067690841 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

The nozzle of the water dispenser broke. I ordered the part which arrived the next day. I did not use the white line, only the black. I turned the water off, then I removed the screw under the broken nozzle and cut off it off from the line. I took a new screw and cut off the top with pliers, then twisted half of a screw in the old line and inserted the other half in the new line and pulled the line from the bottom corner of the refrigerator and connected it to the white line under the grid. Screwed the new nozzle back to the lever, replaced the grid and turned water on.

Removed the ice maker. Used a small mirror (wife's make up mirror) to find the screws. Inspected and found most teflon coating missing. Ordered new ice maker and installed. Works perfect.

1.unplugged the refrigerator.and took off 2 knobs, and 2 screws to remove the cover from the back wall of the refrigerator.Next I unhooked 3 wires,and removed the mounting bracket by removing 1 screw. I had to use a file to slightly modify the bracket, since the thermostat was not the exact same model as the original,due to the age of the refrigerator.(40+years) I reassembled in the reverse order, and it works great

Followed the video on parts page. I was worried I would brake the cover but learned from the video the right way to remove the front plate. I found the video very informing. Thank you for saving me a service call and the part cost was minimal compared to a new refrigerator .

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

First, I removed the two thermostat knobs, then the snap-on plastic cover. Then, I removed the 4 screws holding the housing for the timer, thermostats, etc., and dropped it down enough to remove the timer and the wiring harness going into it. Installing the new one was the same process, in reverse. Quite simple!

I removed the plastic portion to get to the switch and wires. I removed the old switch by disconnecting the two wires and pushing it out of its setting.

I discovered the old switch only had 2 prongs where the new switch had 3. Once I figured which 2 of the 3 prongs would light the lightbulb,
I then connected the two wires to the correct prongs of the new switch. I pushed the new switch into its setting and replaced the plastic portion on the refrigerator. Voila, success. The refrigerator door now comes on when its door is opened.

Thanks for the having the part and getting it at our door step in 3 days.

Removed the old timer from the housing. The replacement came with good instructions. I followed the instructions corresponding to the color wires in my unit. The first time it was installed, the fridge did not come on and the temperature rose after a couple hours. Looked at the part and realized the defrost cycle must have kicked in. Needed to slightly turn the gray slotted part to initiate the timer so it would stop the defrost and start the fridge. That did it! It must have advanced the timer so it could accumulate run time. Whole repair saved us $3000 in a new fridge.

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.

The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this time, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!

Replaced refrigerator cooling control. No luck. Replaced freezer cooling control. No luck. Coils were icing up. Unplugged frig and allowed coils to defrost. After more poking around, found that condenser fan was not spinning. Touch it and it'd start. That was definitely in need of replacement. Replacement was easy. Refrigerator is now running as it should.

Pulled the fridge (KitchenAid side by side) out from the wall for the 1st time in a few years and dealt with those issues. Followed the instructions which were pretty clear. I was lucky enough that I did not need to retro fit any of the connections - it was really a straight forward replacement. The ice maker and the water dispenser have never worked better. Took about an hour.

At first I went to a local part supplier and they didn't have it in stock but could order it for me for $55.00 plus $10.00 to ship it. I told them I would have to think about it. I went home and got on the computer and found your web site and was I shocked when I saw the same part listed for $6.98 and $7.00 to ship it. You guys saved me $50.00. The part arrived in two day and took 5 min. to install. I now have light in my refrigerator. Thank you.

replaced the cold control thermostat . The new one was oriented 90 degrees off (on the bracket mount) so I had to turn it (in the bracket) to line up better with the wire connections and temp sensor tube. The power wires can be connected to either terminal however, and I suppose you could leave it as is if your wires can reach. Turning it will make the knob off 90 deg. off from original markings (off to coldest) but I simply remarked the position with a marker. (make sure you connect all terminals before mounting the bracket, it's much easier that way. .Note: this was a 40+ year old Sears "Coldspot" refridg. and it works like a dream since I changed out this original cold control. Love these old mechanical appliances that are much more reliable than the new brokered ones. Glad whirlpool has made many parts interchangeable through many years...kudos to them

1. PUsh the Lock button so the water will not run.
2.Remove the screw holding the nozzle.
3. Remove the Grill
4. Disconnect the black water tube. Pull the female part of the union off the old tube and hold it for the new tube.
5. PUll it the tube out from the nozzle end.
6. Snake the new tube into the hole and shove it through until it comes out the door hinge port at the bottom of the door.
7. Continue pushing and pulling the tube until the nozzle is in position.
8.Test fit the new tube and cut a short piece off to fit properly.
9. Slide the female part of the union onto the new tube. Insert it onto the union and tighten.
10. Insert the screw that holds the nozzle in place and tighten.
11. Push the on unlock button and fill a glass with water.
12. Check for leaks. If no leaks reinstall the grill.
Job done.