10657767791 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Took off door to ice maker. Unscrewed 1 nut. Slid out unit. Unplugged electrical connector. Unsrewed 3 nuts from bottom of old unit & attached mounting bracket to new unit. Reconnected electric connector. Slid back in. Put screw back in. Put icemaker door back on. Turned icemaker on. Ice in 20 minutes!

simply removed wires from the old motor and gently lifted it out by by the metal clips - put the old bracket on the new motor, snapped on the new fan, replaced the wires, reinstalled the shield. All done in about 15 min.

Pull the refigrator out, unscrew the back plate and the pull the relay & overload out; and put the new one in. It was that simple. The video actually helped me a lot too.

watched video. Very easy

Same as everybody else on this post. Real easy. Actually, I just wish I would have done it sooner.

Cut off old nozzle. Tried electricians tape to join the old and new tubing for fishing, but tube with tape on it, wouldn't fit through hole in hinge at bottom of door. Fished nylon twine through new tube then old tube from dispenser end and was able to feed old tube out and new tube in. Fast and easy. Took more time to clean all the dust and dirt I found down under, than to make the repair.

The hardest part was unloading all the food from the refridgerator door! Once done, pry shroud off top door hinge, remove 3 screws and hinge plate. Lift door off bottom hinge. Remove one screw from bottom of door, remove and discard old lifter cam and spacer. Clean up a bit. Install new spacer and lifter cam. Tighten new screw firmly. Replace the lifter cam and spacer on bottom hinge pin (affixed to refridgerator body) using the same method. Replacing the door is easiest if 2 people do it. One person to lift and steady the door, the other has to lie on the floor and guide the door onto the hinge pin. Replace top hinge plate and screws. Snap shroud back over top hinge plate. Replace food in refridgerator. Close door. Done!

I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.

Thanks,
Matt

We rolled the refrigerator out away from the wall and it was obvious where the break was located. We took out the old water spout for the ice maker and replaced the tube and the tubing from the solenoid. We turned it on and soon we had water dripping everywhere. We unloaded and defrosted the freezer which got all of the remaining ice that was stuck in there. We put everything back together. I read in some instructions in the manual that it might take 24 hours for the ice maker to reprogram itself and start producing ice. I was only about 12 hours and we had ice again and everything worked well. You really do not have to disconnect the water from the main line, the solinoid controls that part of operation and turns the water off until the ice trays are free and clear.

JLB

This is in a rental house; Refrigerator/freezer has been off for a few weeks so just opened the freezer door and used screwdriver to pry out one corner then pliers to grab and pull old gasket (seal) off. Had the new one laid out overnight to relax it; placed one corner on and then the opposite corner then repeated the other two corners. Positioned the keeper edge plastic all of the way around to place the gasket in the door. Closed the door to check the seal and plugged unit back in. Waited and then checked air temp with hand held IR temp gauge. All checked good, no cold spots anywhere. Piece of cake!

remove shelves in freezer compartment incl.holders(slide up to remove)
Remove lamp/shield
Remove panel (six phillips screws)
disconnect motor
pull off fan blade
squeeze bracket holding motor to remove
remove motor.
Re-assemble (in reverse)

I pulled the refer from the wall, disconnected the power and removed the cardboard cover at the base. Using a vacuum and compressed air, I cleaned it thoroughly.
I used a screwdriver to lift the locking tab on the 3-wire connector and removed it. The best way to get the three bolts off was with a 1/4" drive ratchet and go to the std nutdriver handle when they were loose. The fan came out carefully with the blade. I removed the blade nut with flat nosed pliers, cleaned it and placed it on the new motor. I replaced the motor and installed the screws. On a do-over I would install onew screw in each hole at least halfway to get the threads started/ threaded. After that the connector slipped in and I spun the blade to check for interference. The blades can be slightly bent, but use of nut tension can also slightly adjust fan alignment as it's tight to the housing.
That's it

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

I first had to identify the faulty part. I ohms checked the micro switch in the door. It was fine. I traced the wiring to the inlet valve at the bottom of the rear of the unit. I checked the voltage to the solenoids and it was good. After checking the schematics on the Whirlpool website, I determined the only possible faulty part was the inlet valve. I found the correct part here on PartSelect and ordered it. When the part arrived I changed out inlet valves by turning off the water supply, unplugging the refrigerator, removing the two inlet valve mounting screws, and disconnecting the wire terminals. The inlet water line was a 1/2" compression nut and the water and ice outlets were hand turn compression nuts. I reversed the removal steps to install the new valve, turned the water on, checked for leaks, plugged in the refrigerator, and the new valve worked perfectly. The feeling of accomplishing a DIY project was only topped by a happy wife who really didn't want to spend the money on a new fridge!

Removed catch tray and then removed two screws that are underneath. I left the control panel hanging from its wires, then removed the two screws from the control bracket.
A word of caution before next step: You need to remove the two micro switches on the left and right. While trying to remove one, it split apart and the pieces fell out. I was able to put it back together and it worked fine. So be careful with the micro switches.
Continue tranferring wires and switches to the new bracket and reassemble in the opposite order.
An easy repair.