1068364745 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

De-iced the refrigerator. Removed two screws from the thermostat panel on the upper refrigerator section. Tilted it down, removed two speed nuts holding the timer, unplugged the timer plug. Determined from the instruction sheet (easy to follow) what time delay function is used, based on wire colors, placed the jumper on the correct terminal on the new timer. Plugged it in, replaced the speed nuts and screws. The timer fit perfect, works just like it is supposed to, quick easy job.

First I removed the old lightbulb from the socket and replaced it with a new one to confirm that the bulb was not the problem. I then pryed the socket out with a flat-head screwdriver. I could tell that the socket was anchored in its hole with clips so it was relatively easy to pry it out. Once the socket was out, I disconnected the lead wires and ordered a replacement socket kit from Partselect. When the new one arrived, I reconnected the lead wires to it, snapped it back into its hole, screwed in a new lightbulb, and presto!! The light was back on with no further problem. Thank you, Partselect!! A $15.00 part saved me what probably would have been at least a $100. service call and heaven knows what the technician would have told me I needed!!!

First I replaced the thermostat that I had ordered thru Partselect but that did not seem to effect the reair. According to the schematic diagram the only other thing in the circuit was the defrost timer. Immediately on its arrival I went to the refrigerator and removed the two screws that hold the timer in place and disconnected the two wires and installed the new one from Partselect in reverse order. It took about 15 minutes and it was back to running.

I removed the ice maker which required removing 3 screws and then disconnecting the electrical plug. Once the ice maker was out, I removed the 3 screws that held the motor assembly to the unit.
I removed the motor, replacing it with the new one.
Plugged the power supply cord back in, replaced the unit with the 3 screws and within a few minutes the unit was receiving water and by the next day I had ICE. This saved me $50. for the service call, then another $25.00 installation fee when the part came in (had to be ordered) plus the markup on the motor (approx. $25.00) So I saved approx. $100. and only took about 30 min.

Originally replaced water inlet valve, not the problem. Tried to work from cheap to expensive.
1. Turn off power, shut off water supply
2. Loosen top two screws of ice maker (will slide up and off, no need to take top two out)
3.Remove bottom screw from ice maker
4.Pulled unit, snapped out existing wire harness
5.Cut hole for water inlet on end of new unit and attached wire icemaking on/off bracket.
6 Connected existing wiring harness to new unit
7. Slid new unit down onto top two screws, put in bottom screw and tightened all three
8. Turned on power and water supply
Had ice being made within two hours. Part Select has given me great service, highly recommend.

1. turn off power.
2. pop off ice maker cover to access motor assembly.
3. remove three screws to assembly.
4. pull off assembly.
5. attach new assembly making sure metal arm and plastic
ice tray rod align with assembly.
6. screw assembly onto unit.
7. replace cover.
8. plug in refrigerator.
9. enjoy ice again with no leakage into freezer.

I removed two screws on the top and one underneath the unit. Then I disconnected the cable. The hardest part was getting the nut driver on the bottom screw because it was obscured by the unit. The replacement unit plugged right in! I got my first batch of ice in about 20 minutes. All I really needed was the timer unit, but the entire ice maker wasn't much more expensive, especially when you consider the time saved on installation!

The ice maker was not getting water. I hotwired the water valve by switching the connectors for the water dispenser and ice maker water valves and water flowed into the icemaker when the water dispenser lever was pushed. I wronly assumed the water valve was good. I removed the icemaker and determined that the gear motor was not getting power in the position the icemaker had stopped.In this position, the thermostat determines when the motor gets power so I replaced the thermostat. The icemaker still would not get water! As it turns out, the water solenoid was sticking due to a deteriorated rubber washer which let the solenoid plunger get too far out of the magnetic field. I replaced the water solenoid assy and all is well. Don't get fooled by hotwiring the valve. If it isn't getting water, the solenoid probably is the culprit.

Received my kit quickly. Job was fast and easy. Removed 3 screws with nutdriver and unpluged the wiring harness. Use a flat blade screwdriver to lift the tab on the plastic end cap of the harness. The icemaker comes out in one piece. The wiring harness that came installed on the replacement icemaker matched mine perfectly. (It comes with two others). I plugged the new one in, replaced the screws, bottom one first to help hold it while replacing the top two screws. I used the shut-off arm from my faulty icemaker. Turned the power back on and put 1/2 cup of water in the tray and walked away. Ice dropping into the bin was music to my ears. Didn't need any of the clips or things that came with the icemaker. It was basically a "plug and play". I'm so happy to have ice again, and at a great savings!

I had a technician called out to the house to look at repairing several appliances that all have broken parts after just 3 yrs of use. Hood, Microwave, Oven, Fridge all in need of minor repairs..

Anyway - the estimate was $240 to replace the ice maker. I ordered PS358591 for $104. and it came in a couple days.. I took out one screw - slid out the icemaker, unplugged it - plugged in new one and slid it in the slot - and done !! Took about 20 mins.. didnt need any of the wiring harnesses in the box from partselect. Was way to easy to do !!

Thank you !

First, I unplugged the power to the entire fridge, and then removed the ice tray and ice door. Next, I unplugged the flat plug in the very back left behind the icemaker. Then I removed the 1/4" hex head sheet metal screws (2) and the phillips head screw (1) that hold the icemaker to the left side of the freezer wall. New icemaker came with a different style trip arm, so I used it. Plugged new icemaker in before reattaching it with the same (3) screws. Replaced ice tray and door, plugged in fridge, and waited....Dumped its first batch of ice maybe a couple of hours later. Not much trouble-shooting is needed when the entire icemaker is as easy and relatively inexpensive to replace as this. Twenty minutes, max.

We weren't sure if the problem was in the Water Inlet Valve or in the Icemaker Control & Motor Assembly. The water in the door did work. We removed the Water Inlet Valve & tested it with an Ohm Meter. It tested good so we put it back in. We then ordered the Icemaker Control & Motor Assembly. When it arrived we installed it and waited a few hours but the icemaker still did not fill with water. We telephoned a parts store and were told the problem could be the thermostat or we could replace the whole icemaker. We replaced the whole icemaker.

An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.

1. Unplug refrigerator to remove power!
2. The timer is inside the control housing located at the top of the refrigerator compartment.
3. Remove two control knobs (the pull off).
4. Remove the front panel escutcheon. The panel is not held in place with screws, but can be gently pried off.
5. Remove two screws from the back that hold the housing in place.
6. Remove screws from the front that hold the housing in place.
7. Drop housing down (still attached by wires - do not detach). Timer is inside housing, located on right.
8. Follow the instructions provided to identify your particular wiring setup. You'll find the wiring diagram (on my model) at the bottom of the refrigerator, alongside the defrost catch pan, behind the airflow grille.
9. Remove connector from timer terminals (4).
10. Remove two screws/nuts that hold the timer in place.
11. Install replacement timer following included directions. Read and follow ALL instructions applicable to your particular model and wiring setup.
12. Reassemble by reversing the steps above.
13. Note: You may need to "jog" the replacement timer when you first plug the refrigerator back in, if the timer happens to be in a "defrost cycle" (the compressor won't start). This can be done by inserting a wide bladed screwdriver into the hole below the timer, aligning it with the timer shaft, and slightly turning the shaft CW. Don't force it, and don't turn it very far.

I checked the fuses and hoses in the back of the refrigerator to make sure water WAS in fact getting to the front of the fridge. Since the water through the front door worked fine, I had to check the water tube running to the ice maker. It was fine and water was waiting to go somewhere! I decided to pull the icemaker out of the fridge to see what I could fine. Once it was out, I took the ICEMAKER CONTROL AND MOTOR ASSEMBLY off (that's the side part with the dial on it). Only 3 screws to take that off, and it was EASY to see what was wrong once I took that off. There was a connection that was obviously bad (looked almost like it had burned out). My thought was that it was obvious what part was bad, what would it hurt for me to try to fix it myself? When I got online to find the part, PartSelect was the only one that I found that had the EXACT part that I needed, and lucky for me, there were multiple pictures of multiple angles of the part so I could compare and make sure I had the right one!! The part with shipping cost less than the cost of a repair tech to even come out and look at the fridge. Then add the cost of the part and labor if I had the repair tech fix it...I probably saved about $250!!!!