1067640660 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

After searching online to diagnose the issue with my refrigerator being warm and the freezer being cold and not shutting off to defrost I decided to get the defrost timer kit. The kit arrived within 2 day. With the directions included, after unplugging the appliance for safety, I installed it relatively quickly with only a screwdriver . I then plugged it back in and it immediately went to defrost. I thought, wow I have it fixed. Well unbeknownst to me it still didn't cool in the fridge area. After doing more internet research I found a suggestion to unplug the fridge for 24 hours to unthaw ice that may be lodged between the freezer and fridge that is blocking the distribution of cold air into the fridge. After doing this, it now works like a charm.

(1) Ordered PS371704 from PartSelect! Best advice EVER! (2) Unplugged refrigerator (since the water solenoid on the back of the refrigerator is powered to switch ON the water, you NEVER have to turn off the water!) (3) Pull off the refrigerator's bottom grill. (4) With a small saucer under the fittings, unscrew the black and white tube fitting. There is only one nut to remove on the white tubing side. You'll need to undo the compression fitting on the black tubing and slide off the compression nut. You'll need to MAKE SURE you keep these nuts and replace onto the black and white tubing the SAME WAY you took them off. You'll NOT need to use nut drivers as finger tight is the key. Too hard and you'll ruin these plastic nuts. You should get only about 1/8 cup or less of water during this whole exercise. (5) Cut off the old, broken water nozzle. (4) Find a screw of the appropriate size to fit tightly 1/2 way inside the new tubing (this is to ensure your old and new tubing are connected to feed through the door). If screw is not tight within the tubing, wrap part of a plastic (thin) sack around this screw a couple of times and force into the tubing. You'll, of course, then need to use the hacksaw to cut the head off the screw as you'll be forcing the other half of the screw into the old cut tubing (6) Chase the dog out of the kitchen and cajole your wife (significant other) to push the newly joined tubes through the top of the dispenser, through the door and out the bottom as you will be gently PULLING on this old tubing from the bottom until the new tubing pops through the doors bottom. (7) Once this new tubing is out, you will separate the old tubing and, using the nuts in the proper sequence, connect this new tubing to the white tubing. (8) Plug the refrigerator back in and test flow the water. Check to ensure the plastic nuts have no leakage ... button up the bottom grill ... and enjoy the fresh water! PS> Don't forget to praise the wife (significant other) and give the dog a treat for staying out of your face!!

The wire plugs on the replacement part were in different orientations and the tubing connections were push-in versus the original threaded compression type. The repair kit did come with numerous additional tubes and brackets, but there were no instructions for their use. The slots on what looked like a mounting bracket adapter were not on the same centers as my original mount so I could only use one of the mounting holes - which should be OK since it is not under a lot of load after installation. I cut 3/4" off each of the outlet hoses to get a fresh, round hose end and installed the appropriate metal hose supports in the hose ends before shoving them into the push-in fittings. The size differences in the small, sheet metal internal hose supports are subtle, so be sure to double check them before installation. Be sure to press the hoses in fully or you will have a mess on your hands when you turn on the water (ask me how I know). I had to do some small re-routing of the wires to connect to the new wire connector locations (the wires were long enough). The inlet water connection was the same as original (screw on compression). I had no issues with that. After installation I actuated door water several times to make sure the press-in fittings would not work loose. I also monitored ice machine to make sure no leaks after several actuations. The differences in the original and replacement part were a little intimidating at first, but it can be made to work. 4 weeks so far and no issues, Very happy that a replacement part was available for my 21 year old fridge.

Unplug, turn off water supply, carefully remove lower back cardboard cover, unscrew old valve mount, lay towel down, disconnect the three water lines, modify provided “L” bracket by drilling a hole outboard of one of the slots to match/fit the wider original mount holes on the refrigerator’s bottom pan, screw top/short end of bracket to valve, cut back the two clear lines about 1/2” for a “fresh” end, connect all three lines, position valve and secure with original screws (access is tight, used small 1/4” wrench), turn on water/check for leaks, install back lower cardboard, plug in and verify function.

Initial problem was water not entering the icemaker. Replacing the valve assembly did not solve the problem. Further investigation revealed the inflow tube to he icemaker had frozen water in it. Cleaned the ice our and water flowed a bit but not enough to fill the tray. Still investigating the problem.

The Defrost Timer is located in Refrigerator section (not the freezer) where your temperture guages are. Move panel and replace the non working Defrost Timer with the new one. It took my husband about 30-40 mins to fix. This was about 2 weeks ago and my Freezer and Refrigerator are working like new. I bought this Kenmore Reftigerator brand new in 1996 and I lost the manuel to it. Thanks to my daughter who found the Defrost Timer on the Internet, I thought I was going to have to buy a new one. This was real easy to fix. The instructions that came with the part was easy to understand and very self explanatory. It also had very good diagrams to follow.

removed old and instaslled new. biggest problem was getting to one of the screws.

For a year the filler tube would freeze up and stop all water flow. I would remove it and use a heat gun on it. I decided that the fill valve was leaking after 20y and actually saw drops coming out of the tube when the valve was off. So I watched the videos and ordered the parts. So far no freezing up and working as originally. The valve kit came with all the parts I needed to replace and reconnect the plastic and copper tubing connections. Very pleased with the outcome after a week as well as the videos and complests parts needed. The fill tube didn’t need shorthing and was used as it came. Adding, easy to replace and connect to the water supply line. My refrigerator location made the repair a little difficult ( small kitchen) but with patience it all went well. Not as difficult if access to the back side is easier. Not the fault of the parts supplied! Also to mention, I vacuumed out 20 years of dust from the coils while I had the back off. Same for the front side. A must do often to extend the life and air circulation.

first confirm that freezer is cold. if is frozen solid it needs to be defrosted. take the freezer items out,take shelf out, bottom cover, 2 screws. then ice maker, 3 screws and unplug wires. then back panel 2 screws. In refrigerator compartment were the controllers are located, look under it you will see 1 hole, insert a flat end screw driver and turn clockwise till it stops. this action will turn on your defroster, also the compressor will stop. is the heater melting the ice? if so soak up water and clean tray, use hair dryer in drain hole to aid in the defrost, check tray under fridge and if its dry keep defrosting. it should take half an hour. now take the flat head screw driver and turn the defrost timer clock wise out of defrost mode a quarter turn or so. the compressor should come back on, soon after the fan in the freezer compartment should also come on. this steps lets you no that the defrost heater works, fan works and drain hole is clear. if its defrosted place parts back in the reverse order. if not defrosted replace heater or mother board. in refrigerator compartment were the dials are located their are 2 screws, one on the left and the other on the right side take them out, the cover will drop down, you will find wiring schematics you will need them to install defrost timer. is timer making ticking sound? if no replace timer. new timer will be different from original so follow instructions that come with it. timer is above were the hole is located. the plastic hold downs will break when you try to take them off, unplug fridge, lift timer out and remove from wire harness. the new timer has a black wire that slips over either 1 or 2 depending on color of wire on the wire harness. check schematics. some silicone adhesive will keep unit in place, ad some into the plastic shaft prior to installation, plug wire harness return wiring instruction along with new one inside of cover, plug in fridge, turn defrost timer clock wise with flat head screw driver making sure that you hold timer from above so it wont move. did compressor come on?. put all paper work inside of cover before installing cover

removed lower back cover. diconnected fan ass'y electrical connection, removed fan housing (3 screws). removed fan motor from housing. cut old connector from fan and installed on new fan with wire nuts included. re-installed new fan to housing and re-installed housing to frame.

Partition between Freezer and Fridge was running very hot. (Warm is normal). Oiling fan did not work. The only problems encountered in the replacement were getting fan out and in through coolant lines, cut plug off to accomodate generic fan wiring, getting the screws back in without cooking your hand on a hot compressor. Unit works great!

Ordered new fan motor on line took out old motor and replaced with new one

I removed the nuts that held the motor mount, then removed fan blade, cut the wires, and slid the motor pass the mounts and the coil shroud, Installed motor in reverse order. worked out ok.

I tipped the refrigerator back and my friend used an adjustable wrench to attach put the new wheel assembies on. I also used a socket wrench to get the old attacheement bolts to thread. I rolled the cleaned appliance in place and adjusted the wheels with the socket set for easy door closing. It went smoothly.

The instruction sheet supplied with the new motor described the steps to take very good. Replaced the rubber grommets for the three motor mounts also. A flashlight or light source was needed or was very helpful.