25337877892 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Loosen two screws, unclip electrical connection, remove ice maker, remove l shaped leveling piece of metal from old one, put on new one. Install in reverse order. Hint.. when loosening two screws, use a mirror

First, unplug the refrigerator since you're working with live wires.

Remove the 4 Philips sheet metal screws holding the plastic housing that holds the temperature control to the top of the refrigerator compartment. Pull the housing down then out since there is a tube on the housing where the water flows out the back of the refrigerator during the defrost cycle.

Remove the 2 Philips screws holding the defrost timer on the plastic housing. Pull the connectors off the old timer and attach them in exactly the same positions on the new defrost timer.

Attach the new defrost timer to the plastic housing with the 2 screws.

Reinstall the plastic housing, making sure the water tube is inserted into the back of the refrigerator wall.

Plug the refrigerator back in and you're done.

1) The meat drawer and rails were damaged when my 7-year old son closed the refrigerator door while the meat pan was still extended.
2) I ordered the parts on-line using your easy to follow part search.
3) The items arrived 3 days later.
4) I used a phillips screw driver to remove the old rails & I attached the new rails (approximately 10 minutes).
5) I slid the front cover off of the damaged meat pan and slid it on to the new meat pan (approximately 3 minutes).
6) I slid the new meat pan onto the new rails.
7) I demonstrated to my son the importance of closing the meat pan prior to shutting the refrigerator door.

I ordered a defrost timer and defrost thermostat from partselect.com. Parts arrived in 2 days (earlier than expected). Unplugged appliance, removed bottom cover, unscrewed 2 screws holding timer in place, unplugged timer and replaced with new part. Fastened back into place. Next removed back cover of freezer (5 screws using nut driver). Disconnected old thermostat and removed. Wires already had connectors installed. cut off the connectors with some wire left on and reconnected them to the new thermostat with the included blue wire crimps. Tried to use the shrink tube to insulate but couldn't get it snug enough. Just used electrical tape instead. Reinstalled thermostat. Reassembled cover. Plugged in and fridge and freezer are working fine again. Thanks partselect.com.

Used exploded parts view to locate part. Removed old part and replaced with new defrost timer. Piece of cake.

You have to blindly unscrew the two screws along the side of the ice maker. Once that is done simply remove the ice maker to the side to gain access to the electrical plug. Undo the plug and remove the ice maker completely. Install the adapter on the new ice maker and install it in much the same way you removed the old. I started the (2) 1/4" screws before installing the new ice maker to make it easier to hang. Pay careful attention to the wire harness and dress it out of the way. Finally tighten the two screws and make sure the bail wire is down to begin ice making once again.

Shut off water/power - pulled tray -loosened two screws holding ice maker - lifted it up and off - unhooked power connection installed new maker in reverse of above - power supply line was much to long but just pushed it under the ice tray ( away from the maker ) prior to ordering looked at comments from others regarding installation

I purchased the replacement part (no instructions sheet) from another company, not this one, that cost 2X's a much as this company. So I sent it back and ordered from this company. Got it faster then the post office sends us the stamps we order by internet and this ice maker had instructions.
Our's is a side by side refrig, so working space is limited but do-able. The old ice maker has made a clicking noise for years while trying to push the cubes out of the tray. They would get stuck and refreeze, sticking half way out of the tray.
I loosened the 2 screws with a socket driver (which are difficult to see), raised the unit up and off the screws. Unplugged the power & out it came. Removed the bracket on the side as instructed to attach to the new ice maker and in the trash the ol' ice maker went. Set the new ice maker on the screws, plugged in the power, tightened the screws and walla. A quiet ice maker. In fact, it would startle us the first day as we didn't hear the clicking noise indicating it was stuck. All of a sudden the cubes just dropped into the container. Alright! Don't know why I didn't do this years ago.

I wrote down the Brand and model# of my refrigerator. googled it and PartSelect came up. I mean it literally took me 5 minutes to select the part, and order it! I ordered it on a Saturday and the part arrived on Tuesday! And it was a perfect fit! I will always return to PartSelect for any replacement parts for my appliances! Thank you!

I want to first say that before I ordered this part from "Part Select" I first went and talked with a local appliance repair shop. They quoted me a $120 charge to come out and check the problem. Then $30 and hour service fee, plus parts. He provided me a quote of about $250 for the job.
I found this part easily on the web site $77. It was very easy to instal. The only problem I had was the fact that in the side by side it was very difficult for me to get two hands inside the freezer to install it. (I have wide shoulders). Two screws loosened, no need to remove them. Just life the entire unit straight up. Unplug wire harness. Then just reverse order. Could not be easier. If you can change a light bulb you can do this.

Bought a new
capacitor.

There are 3 parts that actually control cooling cycle: Temperature Thermostat, Defrost Timer and sensor/relay on the back side of the appliance. If fridge cycles up after you turn small knob on defrost time (you'll hear click, problem lies between first two components.
Replacing them is really easy. Make sure you handle thermostat wire carefully. Check for connectors holding firm.
Use schematic diagrams you may find at this site.

Good luck.

Removing the old unit was easy enough, just loosened two screws that attach unit to side of freezer and disconnected the wiring harness. But the new unit never goes in quite as easily because it's always just a little different from the original. In this case, the wiring ended up being about six inches longer and the excess had to be stuffed behind a shield at the rear of the unit. Theoretically, the wire could have been pushed back through the opening, but it got jammed and wouldn't go. I had to remove side rails and pry the shield forward in order to get the wiring back out of the way. The unit is a narrow side by side, so there wasn't a lot of room to move around. But it wasn't difficult, just tedious. I had to make sure the wiring did not come into contact with the heating element at the bottom of the icemaker. Once installed it worked great.

Followed the steps in the video on your site, really easy to do.

The Roper part was no longer available and a substitute was not recommended. But because of the excellant descriptions and photos on Part Select I was able to find a Fridgedaire part that looked exactly like the one I needed to replace. I it fit perfectly... I am impressed and have bookmarked your site for later purchases.
The thermostat is located at the top of the refridgerator compartmennt under the freezer. Remove light bulb to access the screw at the back of the thermostat/defrost timer housing. Remove screw and slide the assembly to the back to release the 2 tabs holding the front. Remove the temperature control knob on the thermostat, remove the 3 wires connected to the thermostat noting where which wire goes for re-assembly. Using a philips #2 screwdriver, remove the 2 screws under the temperature control knob and remove the thermostat. Do not lose the screws, the new thermostat does not have mounting hardware. Piece of cake, Ice cream cake if you get the freezer working again.