10654614300 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

A service man who came to the house for another job said it was common for one solenoid on the inlet valve to fail while the other still worked, which explained why it would refill the ice maker but not dispense water. It was easy enough to unscrew the old valve from the frig frame and unscrew the and the tubing. The valve is oriented a little differently, but there was still room for it and enough tubing to reach the connections. Seems to me colors for the new water/ice controls were not exactly the same, so I would make a note of them (by following the tubing) when you disconnect them. The newer style push-in connectors were easy to hook up once I trimmed the a half inch or so from the end that had been crimped by the older compression fittings. Once I started using the water again, the occassional small puddles of water under the freezer door hinge disappeared. I was told this can happen when you stop using the water, and the water remaining in the tube that runs up thru the freezer door can freeze and thaw, producing a sweat that runs down the tube and out the hinge.

First removed one screw from the bottom right bottom side of the unit. Removed the door from the front of the unit. Pushed up the locking tab on the left underside of the unit and pulled the unit partway out. Removed the plastic cover ( that was retained by the screw removed and disconnected the electrical connection) and finished removing the unit from the freezer. Removed the remaining three screws from the bottom of the unit and installed on the bottom of the new unit. I then slid the new unit partially in and connected the wiring harness and slid the rest of the way in guiding the water line into thepocket which was taller than the origional unit. Reinstalled the wire protective cover with one screw and the front cover back on the new unit. Done and is working great.

Removed upper hinge cover and hinge, lifted door from lower hinge socket, removed lower cam from 'frig hinge, and replaced with new. I had a helper hold the 'frig door while I removed old upper cam, and replaced with new. Piece of cake and works like new! This must be a design problem..

Removing the panels inside the freezer section was the most difficult ,because it is narrow,hard to fit your body inside compartment, in order to cut wires and to splice Bi-metal Defrost Thermostat wires (2 ) Watch the videos on the web site so you know where to start. First time I ever "repaired " a large appliance, saved me over $ 600.00 (that's what the people I bought the Refrigerator from wanted to charge me.) My parts cost 65.00 !!!!! My younger brother turned me onto the web site... , I'll be returning to the site and telling my friends about it. It's a total "rip off" what service organizations charge the general public these days from Car Dealer ships to the stores we purchase our appliances from. !!! Glad I still have my health and faculties to repair the essentials we have around our homes. !!!!

Remove the unit cover by unsnapping from the bottom. Remove the face plate on the switches. The ice door simply snaps off the closing mechanism. The problem I have is that the original door included a heat trace element (keeps the back of the door warm to limit condensation). The new part was simply a new seal. I clipped the leads to the het trace (turn off the fridge before you do that) and put in the new door. When the heat ids on in the house there is no problem with condensation but on warmer days its pretty bad. I cannot find a replacement part with the heating element and have contacted Whirpool. THey haven't responded as of yet.

Power outage and both freezer and refrigerator stopped cooling. When you unplug the refrigerator and plug it back in the compressor would run for a few seconds then kick off. Replaced the combination start device and works great again. Third time I have used the site with positive results. Fast shipping and right part every time to fix that fixed my problem.

Approximately:

1. Unplugged refrigerator.
2. Emptied Freezer.
3. Removed Ice Maker.
4. Waited a few hours for ice to melt around back panel & nuts.
5. Removed back panel and the cover over fan and fan motor.
6. Waited many more hours for ice to thaw over fins, wiring, etc.
7. Easily replaced the bi-mental defrost thermostat.
8. Replaced panel, fan cover, ice maker.
9. Plugged in refrigerator and waited a bit.

This worked! Yahoo.

p.s. I am a 65+ year old mechanically minded woman. :-)

I removed cleaned & re-ionstalled the same unit. It started to slowly make ice and then stopped. I repeated the above procedure again and it started to work normally. I will keep the replacement icemaker as a handy spare. I fear it will fail again in the near future.

After deciding it was the unit itself and not a water celenoid I ordered it from parts select. Instead of 3 to 5 business days it arived the next day after ordering. I had previously removed and reinstalled the ice maker while trouble shooting. It was easy to change it out, and works perfectly.

Heating element broke and fried the rest of the parts had to take out the bad parts and put in the new ones and it worked. i have fixed this problem three times now.

first i put in a new water inlet valve it did not solve the problem i waited 3 days then ordered the ice maker i put it in an it still did not work after 3 days i put in water in the ice maker by hand it still did not work i gave up then to my surprise 4 more days it started working still not sure what was wrong but i am glad it works now this was about a two week process one tip on getting ice maker out is to take the door that's covers ice maker off no tools needed then remove three screws slip it in an out there is a helpful video for water inlet thank you mike b

The first thing I did was to determine what my problem was. I was hearing a clicking sound and
noticed the compressor was trying to start.
I removed the screws that held the back cover on
which took 5 minutes. Once it was off I could see the compressor and the start switch which was attched to the side with a clip. I took the needle nose pliers and popped this off and pulled the switch out, disconnected the wire plug and that was it. To replace it I unplugged the capacitor from the old switch and plugged it into the new one then installed it the same way the old one came out.

Remove ice maker from freezer, place on its side on table. Remove single screw securing coupling from shaft without removing shaft from housing. Remove old coupling, and attach new coupling using single screw.

This is a great time to completely clean the Ice maker bin and crusher unit.

After receiving the replacement emitter and receiver boards from PartSelect.com, I following the troubleshooting paperwork that came with my order to ensure the parts I ordered where the problem. After which, it was very straight forward: unplug the frig, unscrew the 3 screws on the covers for each board, unplug the push-pin connection, remove the board screw, set the new board in, and plug back into the connection. It took approximately 20min.

I unplugged the refrigerator
Opened the freezer door
Opened the ice maker door so that I could easily get to the emitter and receiver
I used a phillips head screw driver to remove 3 screws from the emitter plate and 3 screws from the receiver plate
I unplugged the faulty circuit boards--this took some tugging
I firmly plugged in the new circuit boards and replaced the screws
I waited about 30 minutes and the ice maker began making ice again