10666868790 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

My husband took the old motor out by taking the screws out. Then, he unplugged the fan. We searched your site for the part. With the pictures on the site, we were able to match the motor exactly. The delivery was really fast. When we received the part, he installed the fan and plugged in the power connector. We have replaced refrigerator fans before but anyone can do this with no experience. Just follow the instructions and you're all set.

removed the defrost timer and replaced with new unit now i have a refrigerator again

At age 65 I have never attempted to repair a refrigerator, until now. It took longer than needed because I did not read these articles carefully. Please note that when you open the door and the light blinks twice, waits a second and blinks again, the optics are working fine. I ordered an emitter and receiver when I didn't need to. I sent it back, the money was refunded, and ordered the ice maker. I replaced the old icemaker by removing three screws and slipping it out of its holder.

Here is how I found out I needed the new ice maker. I took the supply line apart that runs down the back of the refrigerator. I blew through it without any trouble. This told me that the line was not frozen within the refrigerator. I put the supply line back together, and jumped the solenoid that was connected to the supply line at the bottom right of the refrigerator. My model is the side by side, so it has two solenoids. The solenoid that runs the water to the dispenser in the door was always running, so I knew if there was a problem it would be with the ice maker solenoid. So, how did I jump the solenoid. Kids, don't try this at home. I disconnected the wiring harness to the solenoid by pulling it straight out. Then I took the female end of an extension chord and placed a twelve two electrical wire with the ends stripped into the positive and negative slots. I then jumped the solenoid. Water ran to the ice maker, but there still wasn't any ice made. Since the optics and the solenoid were working it seemed to me that the ice maker wasn't doing it's part. There are easier ways to check the solenoid in this forum, but this worked for me. I saved a lot of money and the parts got here quickly.

The item is listed as R, meaning right hand side. If you need it for the left hand side, simple turn it over. It is designed to work on both sides of the door.

plastic warped in ,spaced out and, the socket snapped back in place.

snapped in. The best part was the ease that i identified the part due to your website.

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

I replaced the bi-metal thermostat. Very easy fix. It took a couple of days and the water stopped collecting at the bottom.I am very pleased with the web site.

I wasn't sure what the problem was, but the ice maker seemed simple and on-line resources suggested the control and motor assemblty was at fault. I searched the internet and Partsource had great diagrams which I could match to the part in hand. The price was right (way less than the local stores) so I ordered it.
I unplugged the unit from the power in the freezer, but unplugging the entire refrigerator works too. I pried off the white cover on the front of the ice maker, which snaps in place top and bottom. There are three screws holding the contoller (the entire front piece), remove them, pull off the controller and push the new one in place. You may have to turn the blade shaft to line up the notch on the shaft to the motor. Then reinstall the three screws, The screws go into plastic so it is easy to cross thread them, so be careful, I actually think I did with no ill effects. Snap on the cover and repower the unit. Done. Simple and quick.

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

After unplugging the refrigerator, I used a hairdryer to melt the ice sufficiently to be able to remove the freezer rear panel with a nutdriver. I also removed the ice-maker for easier access to the components behind the panel, using a nutdriver. Once the panel was removed I melted more ice at the bottom of the evaporator housing. After partially melting the ice in the drain tube, I poured hot water down the drain tube until it cleared, signaled by the sound of the water dripping into the drain pan. I next removed the clip-on Bimetal thermostat from the copper line going into the evaporator and snipped the two wires to remove it. I installed the replacement thermostat with crimp-style connectors and pull-tested them. I also replaced the timer board that is located below the freezer, below the top shelf, using a nutdriver. I replaced the circuit board as a precaution that the thermostat may not have caused the problem. I didn't change the heater inside the freezer as it checked out to have the same resistance as a new one. I tested the removed thermostat using a glass of ice water but it remained in the open condition, using an ohmmeter. (I later checked that thermostat after the freezer was running and it did close, and returned it to the open position by heating it under the hot water faucet. I suspect that it didn't work properly, or the timer control board was faulty). After re-installing the back panel and ice-maker and plugging the refrigerator into the power receptacle, it worked very well, and has done so since the repair.

Removed the rear cardboard cover and cleaned the area around the compressor and as much of the condensor and fan area as possible. Removed the two base section securing bolts. Jacked the rear of the cabinet up enough to seperate the base from the cabinet. Removed the roller pins and removed and replaced both rollers. Lowered the cabinet back into place, replaced the base bolts and the cardboard cover. The rollers that were sent were of much better quality than the original plastic type and should last the life of the refrigerator. Be careful when moving the fridge as the original rollers may cut into or scratch the flooring.

i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burned. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.

Our ice maker had been overfilling and causing a big block of ice in the bin for some time, but it finally stopped working completely. In trying to determine the problem, I read the comments on the PartSelect website from other customers and thought I needed either a new valve or a new ice maker. I replaced both because when I took the old ice maker out, it had a lot of mineral deposits in it and looked very unappetizing. The videos on how to replace the valve and ice maker were very helpful. Other customers comments on replacing the valve were also great. The only thing I would add is that after getting the parts installed and the water line and electricity reconnected, it takes an hour or so for the ice maker to to fill. I suppose there is a temperature sensor that won't fill it until gets down to a certain point. I am very pleased with the outcome of this project on our 28 year old refrigerator.

Looking at the ice maker it is pretty cut & dried as to how to remove the unit. I took out the ice tray and just started removing all the mounting screws. The same for the mold ice tray & heating element. I was just sad that you did not have just the heating element separate from the mold ice tray.