25369822891 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

My brother completed the repair by replacing rack on door and also brackets. The support rack had to be cut to size and then put on overall no too bad.

took off the old one installed the new one

removed the screws/nuts; pulled the back panel off, removed the old thermostat (wires just popped apart) replaced the new thermostat (wires just popped back on) replaced the back panel and the nuts and TaDa!!

First I removed 2 screws and removed broken railing then placed new railing ad screwed in new screws then replaced drawer into railings. Thank you so much for the excellent service in geting me the correct part in a timely manner.

Removed the back panel in freezer compartment with the nut-driver. Then I cut off old thermostat connections, and spliced in new thermostat connections (repairman had already replaced defrost timer, and said not to trust connectors included on wires-they failed often). Then I snapped thermostat itself onto cooler coil. So far so good, fridge is running at 35-40 degrees a week later. Thanks Parts-Select!!!

I used the tool at Partselect that in theory allows diagnostic of the problem to be repaired. The result was that more tan 90% of the time with the introduced symptoms it had to be the thermostat. I order the part, got it quickly and installed. It did not fix the problem. So, be careful with the diagnostic tool, because it is just based on what most people buy when they have a particular problem. Videos for installation are great. If diagnosis was better, this would be fantastic. In my case there might be a different problem.

Had to remove all screws on rear back cover of freezer inside, unplugged refridgerator, uncliped thermostat, unpluged thermostat. Replaced thermostat with new one in the same location, and let defrost fulley. Reassembled, pluged in, and tested. All was good. But I did also replace timer at first part of the repair so I suggest you replace both at the same time.

Unplug fridge, tilt back against wall to provice clearance to install new assembly. Used self starting screws to install. Used cordless drill with nutdriver to install assembly.
Time to complete job-5 minutes

Found the part on this site ordered and received part in 3 days. Took approx. 10 min to replace. Thanks for the quick service.

I used a flat head screwdriver to pry open the front of the socket as I pushed the socket toward the freezer side. I unplugged the two wires connected to the socket then re-connected the two wires to the new socket and popped the new socket back in. I then put a new light bulb in and we had light again in the fridge.

Use the rubber brushing to fill the gap.

After realizing the engineering on this dryer was different, I was able to access the temperature control thermostat through the front, along the side of the heating element. Several philips screws hold the front on, removing them allows you to take front panel off. At that point the heating element is below. I took a picture of the wires, so that when I started removing them, it would be easy to reconnect. Two screws hold the heating element in place, upon removing the heating element housing pulls gently forward and out, be careful of the wires, the thermostat is the second thing connected to the housing of the heating element. Two more philips screws hold the housing to the bottom of the dryer. Two wires are removed from thermostat, which is also held in place by two philips screws. Remove wires, one at a time and place on thermostat exactly as they were on old thermostat. Hold new thermostat in place with the two Philip screws, and reassemble in reverse order. And enjoy your working dryer once more, hopefully for years to come.

freezer section remove ice trays ,shelves,unplug ice tray.use 1/4 nut driver remove back panel,use hair dryer thaw ice from evap coil ,unplug tstat remove install new one.plug in ice maker,put back panel back on ,ice maker and shelves plug refridgerator back in

Problems. Two screws holding temperature control module to the plastic case did not fit the holes in temperature controler were too big. So I used gorilla glue to help secure but it was still loose a little bit with all the connections made i turned it on but it did not work

unplug power from ref removed old light socket only difference wired a little different checked new socket compaired to old checked terminal ends small big looked at wires big,little plugged up put in new light blub plugged ref power back on work power off pushed socket bac in power on works