5969555510 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

1 screw remove assembly. Unplug cable harness and remove old cover and wire arm. Replace cover and wire arm and attach wire harness on assembly end. Re attach using screw removed in first step. Plug in wire harness. Making ice within 30 minutes.

removed the back panel inside the freezer (several small screws) with a nutdriver. used a hair dryer to melt the built up ice. replaced the thermostat and replaced the panel. very simple repair.

Repair Refrigerator Kick Plate Grill:
No tools were required. I removed old grill with hands. I attached two clips to new grill, and re-installed the new grill. (less than 5 minutes very easy)

Repair Crushed Ice Bucket:
You will need sockets or nut driver. Remove the Ice crusher dispenser and metal rod from the existing unit. You will then re-install with the new Ice Bucket. There were two scews that held the front cover. You will need to remove four screws to remove the ice crusher mechanism and re-install with new bucket. (10 minutes to replace)

Repair Ice Maker Assembly:
I removed the plastic cap on the top left edged of the ice maker. You will need to use your existing cap with the replacement unit. I then loosened the top two screws on the ice maker assembly. You do not need to remove the top two screws. There is one screw on the bottom that will need to be removed. This will allow you to get to the wiring harness. I pulled out the white tube that fills the ice maker with water. I then used a small bucket to pour existing water out of the ice maker. I used a small screw driver to depess the clip on the wiring harness. You can not pull out the wiring harnes unless the plastic clip is depressed. The new ice maker assembly did not have the same type of water line attachment. It looks like it is made for different assemblys. For my water tube, I noticed a notched area on the new unit that could be cut out to work like my existing unit did for the water line. I used a box knife to cut out the notched area. On the new water tray, there was a hole in the side that my existing unit did not have. It does not affect the installation of the water tube. I installed the new ice maker assembly by attaching the wiring harness. Installed the bottom screw using my original bracket instead of the new bracket that came with the new unit. Tightened the top screws and bottom screw. Attached the water tube to the ice maker assembly. Attached plastic cap between the refrigerator wall and left side of the ice maker assembly. (15 minutes)

replaced the bimetal defrost thermostat & defrost timer and that seem to cure the problem found repair easy and parts were here n lest than two days very satisfied with prompt sening of parts an explanation how to repair. Thank-you!!!!

We have a side-by-side and the tutorial was different than what we have. Had trouble getting cover off, but finally repaired and WE HAVE ICE! Also took longer than expected.
Saved a lot!

Removed the two screws that hold flaping door. Removed the single screw that covers the connecting wires. Disconnected the wiring plug. I wiggled out the ice maker. Took off the motor cover. Swapped out one motor for the other. Reinstalled the icemaker in the resverse order of removal. Note the wiring plug in the freeze is very from. It makine s the reconnection differcult.

I have replaced the circuit board, the condenser fan motor but the unit still will not feeze correctly. The bottom of the unit freezes but just barely cools the rest of the freezer and ice box. Have you got any other advice that might help. This is a side by side unit. What else could be the problem. It seems that the fan is not working correctly or it is stuck in defrost mode. The coils where the fan is seem to be icing up but it will not let the fan work. THanks for your help, David Wilson

First I removed the back cover then removed 3 nuts holding the motor. Next I removed the two wires. Next I attached new connectors to the wires and installed the new motor and everything worked perfect!

Service and shipping were fantastic! I would definitely use Partselect again!

I didn't know what the problem was so replaced all 3 parts.
What I think actually fixed the problem is the Cold Control Thermostat that is not listed here. This part accessed by removing the dial control in the front of the Freezer. Part wasn't exactly the same but worked. I looped the sensor toward the front of the dial. Also replaced the Run Capacitor from the the back of the unit (Very Easy). Replaced the Defrost Timer from the Front of the unit (Easy). Now keeping 35-40 degrees in the Fridge and -15-0 in the Freezer. Nice. I plan to replace the Condenser Fan Motor also as it is a bit noisy.

valved water off
removed back panels from refrigerator
disconnected water supply line from solenoid
disconneceted outlet to ice maker
disconneceted outlet to water for the door
removed solenoid valve
replaced water line to the ice maker
installed new solenoid and reconnected water lines. Valved water on and pressure tested and put back panels back on. This is a very easy job and if you live in Tennessee your valve will eventually stop up. The first sign will be smaller ice cubes and then no ice cubes.

Removed screw under ice maker. Tilted ice maker up to remove unit from upper two screws. Disconnected plug at rear of freezer. Attached wiring harness, baler arm and cover from old to new ice maker. Reinstalled in reverse order. Had ice within one hour. Very easy fix.

Disconnected power cord, Removed lower front face plate, removed one screw that helt cover over defrost timer, removed two screws that held timer, unpluged timer and removed it. Replaced old timer with new timer. Replaced timer installed two screws and replaced cover.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

We came home from a long vacation to discover a warm refrigerator with its contents in various stages of decay.

Turning the freezer thermostat to its warmest setting then back to cold generated clicks, and after a few tries the compressor started and cooled the refrigerator to its normal cold temperatures. But… later the compressor again failed to start, and everything warmed back up again. With persistence and turning the thermostat up and down several times a day, we could keep the fridge cold.

It was time to order parts. We needed a new start relay and capacitor for the compressor. For our Amana ARB2214CW a start relay (WP12555902) and capacitor (WP65889-4) were listed on the first page of the Partselect parts list for my refrigerator. I ordered them, received them, removed the old capacitor and start relay (which rattled when shaken). and prepared to install my new parts. The new start relay did not match the old. The old start relay fit my wiring which had a single plug with two small female spade connectors in the plug. The new start relay required wiring with two separate female spade connectors; one the normal size and one larger. Phone calls to Partselect and to Westinghouse shed no light on the discrepancy. On the second page of the Partselect parts list was a combination of a start relay and a capacitor (W10613606) that matched my electrical connector. I could see the connection in the photograph. I ordered it and it fit. Easy peazy. That fixed the compressor start problem. Every time the freezer thermostat clicked on, the compressor started. Success.

But… from our troubleshooting we now had a thermometer the freezer, and it was obvious that the temperature difference between the cold point where the thermostat turned the compressor off and the warm point where the thermostat restarted the compressor was much too wide. In addition, the knob was hard to turn and was sticky as it turned. Oiling it fixed the sticky knob problem but not the wide temperature difference problem. I ordered a new freezer thermostat (WP67003000), received it, installed it, and all is now fine with my refrigerator. The new thermostat was physically a little different from the original, but it fit and worked.

I returned the first compressor start relay and capacitor and received a refund including the shipping charge.