36368162894 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I had to remove the glass shelve, the two drawers, and the middle rail. Once I did that, I slide the unit out together. I placed the unit on the floor and removed the one screw located on the far backside of the unit. I had to remove a slip cover (it had the kenmore logo and the writting on it) it was a snap on, so no problem. Glad it was not gluded on. After the old part was removed, I put the new part on. Put the two screws back on and snap the cover back on. Then I put the whole unit back in. This included the glassshelve and drawers. The process was pretty easy. Good luck with your change.

Took out both draws and glass shelf, removed the entire lower shelf housing. I snapped off the front rail aluminum face to expose the screw. Unscrewed both screws and removed the rail and then just reversed the procedure to put new rail on. It was the most cost effective way of doing it. All the pieces are there on the GE website as long as you know the model number. You will save a lot of money by doing it yourself.

Took out shelf & brackets. Removed plastic shelf. Unscrewed broken bracket & screwed in new bracket.
Put back in & replaced the shelf.

Removed drawers and glass shelf. Removed screws that hold old slide rails in place. Installed new rails and re-installed cover for vents. Placed assembly back in and installed drawers.

Pop out switch, pull wires, attach wires to new switch and pop back in. Easy smeasy!

Repair was super simple. Everything was a direct fit. Hardest part was unloading freezer to access evap motor. My freezer was old making my wire shields very brittle so I cut the shielding and used heat shrink tubing for a neat clean repair.

This was so easy I think it took me 2 minutes. I am not very mechanically inclined but that didn't matter! Works perfect thank you!

I unplugged the refrigerator. Pressed the tab near the light bulb. Unplugged the socket and reconnected it.

with a jewelry screwdriver I pried the lock tab in and pulled switch down carefully, the hardest part was that the power wire connector was stuck on good but the pliers and the jewelry screwdriver was its match for a bout 5 minute for one connection a simple pull off prong connection. After the wire connected back to switch it popped back in SNAPP

Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.

Allow 24 hours for new gasket to flatten out from packaging. Gently peel off existing gasket. Clean dirt and mold from mount area.
Mount gasket beginning at a corner. Press gasket into place every inch around perimeter. Done! Water is no longer in bottom of refrigerator and it is running more efficiently (less time running) due to the fact that it can maintain the temperature for longer periods of time.

Placed new gasket into dryer,( recommended by 2 u tubes) high heat for about 10 minutes and was a snap getting softened gasket into little tiny slot actual placement was done twice as there was a twist in the seal i missed the first time so did do twice but was so easy this way was almost sad thinking it would have been 100$ deductible having someone do it and who knows what normal cost would have been......thanks u tube

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

Simple. Rolled the refrigerator out , unplugged the 120 volts AC outlet.(1) Unplugged the wiring from the cabinet to the fan (white (three pin connector)). (2) Removed the two 5/16 inch screws holding the rear motor bracket . (3) Removed the fan blade from the motor shaft by applying slight pressure, pulling if off the old motor shaft. (4) removed the rubber isolator from the frame and from the rear of the old motor. (5) placed the rubber isolators back on the motor and frame. (6) Pushed the new motor back into the frame and re-installed the fan assembly. (7) remounted the fan with the rear support and the two 5/16 inch screws. Reconnected the three wire connector. Just checked the fan blade assembly to make sure they were not hitting the fan shroud. Fan blades should sit just partially inside the shroud to make sure it produces maximum airflow.
(8) Reconnected the 120 volt AC and waited for the compressor to cycle back on... Nice quite fan... Thanks

Ordered part came in 3 days. Removed plug and rear cover. Pulled off old fan . Installed new fan by pushing it on to shaft. Plugged unit back in to check operation, installed rear cover. Done. Part fit perfect. Thanks to this site you folks are great !