25331439107 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Using your online troubleshooter, it was probably the defrost timer and/or the defrost thermostat. Both cheap so I ordered both. The online repair videos showed how to replace those parts. Replaced the timer first with no problems. Removed the panel at the freezer back an saw a streak of black smoke on the white panel wall above the thermostat. Good chance this was the failure point. Video also showed how to replace this unit without any problem. Set the temperature control and let the frig run over night. Problem solved!frig at 38d and freezer at 0d.

I just watched the videos on the website and it was just as easy as the videos made it look.

Unplug the refrigerator. Removed the right hand top shelf. Used a 1/4" nutdriver to remove rear center mounting screw for Control Housing. Used Phillips screwdriver to remove two mounting screws for timer. Unplug cable from timer and plug it into the new timer. Install the new timer and re-install the Control Housing. Plug in the refrigerator and adjust the timer to start the unit. This was a snap with the diagnostic provided by Part Select. At first I thought it was the fan rubbing but when I removed the cover (two screws) it was obvious that wasn't the problem. The diagnostic hinted that it was either the timer or the motor capacitor making the noise. Because the noise continued after turning OFF the control, I thought it was the timer...I was right.

I order defrost timer then replaced it but it seemed doesn't work. I order defrost thermostat again then it worked fine until now. Thanks. Part selects.

Followed Internet video instructions for both parts. Two suggestions: Forget the heat shrink tubing and use electrical tape instead, tubing is short in length and difficult to use unless you have a correct heat gun. Secondly, my timer didn't click twice but due to instructions I could determine that the timing was correct in the operation after the first click. This method could be explained as well as when to start it in connection with usage to be the most efficient in temperature and operation.

I watched the video online where it described the troubleshooting tips for this type of symptom. So I knew exactly what the problem was which is the defrost timer. After the part came in I just unscrewed (4 screws) the box which houses the thermostat and the defrost timer from top ceiling of the refrigerator section. Then I just unscrewed and unhooked the old defrost timer and replaced it with the new one. After finishing the installation I turned the fridge on. At first nothing happened. So I turned the dial on the defrost timer with a flathead screw until it clicked and the fridge came alive. I waited for an hour or so. The cooling cycle completed and the fridge stopped as expected. When I opened the door I noticed the interior is much colder than before and right after closing the door the fridge hummed back into life again. So I know my fridge is working again. Thanks to PartSelect for providing the right part for my refrigerator. I will definitely buy from them again if anything goes wrong.

1. Disconnected electrical. 2. Removed upper console in refrigerator by removing 2 nuts. 3. Disconnected wiring from console. 4. Removed 2 screws from defroster timer part and pulled off from connector. 5. Replaced with new defroster timer and put everything back together. Thank you Steve for the U-Tube step by step video.

Simply replaced the defrost timer located inside the frig just behind the temp dial. Very easy job. Removed the 3 screws holding the temp sw and light assembly. Removed the defrost timer w/ 2 screws and put i all back together. 15 mins at most. Suggest you watch the install video for pointers.

After some troubleshooting to ensure the thermostat and heating element were working, determined that the defrost timer was the problem. With the defective part, I was able to manually advance the timer to activate the defrost cycle, but it wouldn't do so on its own. Unplugged the refrigerator from the wall. Timer is located in the refrigerator compartment at the very top. The compartment houses the cooling thermostat, the light bulb and the defrost timer. Using 1/4" nut driver, remove 4 screws holding compartment cover to top of fridge. Lower a bit to access electrical wiring. Wiring harness can be unplugged to work on the timer away from the fridge which makes it a bit easier. Timer is mounted with 2 phillips head screws. Remove screws and unplug timer from wiring. Install new timer, plug in wiring, secure with the phillips head screws and remount entire compartment.

followed the video very esay

Removed the timer, installed the new one. Great service from part select

Exactly as the video showed, except I had to take the evap coil cover off and use a hair dryer to thaw it out. It was still frosting up too much, so I ordered the thermostat as well. Both were really easy, once i saw the location of the defrost timer and the thermostat. Thanks for the great site, prices that put the big store to shame, and the good video too!

Refrigerator and freezer was not cooling sufficiently due to an inoperative evaporator cooling fan. Replacing the mini evaporator fan was extremely easy. Here are the steps needed to replace the fan. Step 1: Unplug refrigerator/freezer main power cord from the electric wall outlet. Step 2: Remove the food rack from the freezer compartment. Step 3: Using a 1/4" nut driver, remove the (2) 1/4" screws that hold the freezer vent panel/temperature control in place. Step 4: After removing the screws, disconnect the motor's wire harness connector which is located on the top left corner behind the freezer's vent panel/temperature control. Step 5: Pull away the entire vent panel/temperature control panel and lay it flat on a table. Step 6: Remove the vent cover from the main panel by holding the left side and the right side of the vent cover and squeeze both ends at the same time. Step 7: With the motor now being visible pull the motor's fan blade straight off. Step 8: Using the 1/4" nut driver, remove the (2) screws that hold the motor bracket to the rear of the main panel. Step 9: Using the 1/4" nut driver remove the (2) screws that hold the motor to the bracket and the (1) ground wire screw. Step 10: Install new motor back onto the bracket with the original (2) screws and the (1) ground wire screw onto the same locations.Step 11: Re install the (2) screws that mount the fan bracket to the back of the main vent panel.Step 12: Push the motor's original fan blade back on the shaft until it's fully seated. Step 12: Snap back in place the small vent panel back onto the main panel. Step 13: Push in place until you hear a click, the motor's wiring harness connector back onto the top left corner of the freezer's main power wire harness connector. Step 13: Push the main vent panel until it's in place and then reinstall with the original (2) 1/4" screws. Step 14: Reinstall the freezer's food rack back in place. Step 15: Plug in the main power cord into the wall outlet. Get ready to enjoy ice cold drinking water and a super cold freezer. Pete,your weekend mechanic

The fans and lights worked but unit did not cool at all. Pulled refridgerator out and compressor was not working, unplugged and plugged back in,compressor would run for ten seconds then quit. After checking online got suggestion of start switch and compacitor were bad. Ordered parts from,parts select and had them within 3 days. Unplugged unit and removed 4 screws holding back cover on, removed metal holder with needle nose pliers,pulled wires from switch and then pulled switch and capacitor assembly out. Reversed the order and plugged it back in and refridgerator works fine. Pretty simple

My unit was not defrosting. Defrost heater was not functioning. Defrost heater tested good with a meter. Thermostat (cold) tested bad with a meter. Defrost timer was working properly. I replaced the thermostat but I had to buy red crimp connectors because the blue ones that came with the thermostat are designed for wire bigger than 18 AWG wire. The thermostat leads as well as the wire in my unit were 18 AWG. The crimp was not tight enough for my liking with the blue butt connectors. I also purchased smaller heat shrink tubing. After replacement, the defrost heater started working. I could see it glowing. Unfortunately immediately after getting the heater working the contacts in the defrost timer arced and stuck together thus preventing the timer from exiting defrost mode. The heater went off at this point indicating that the thermostat was now working. I then purchased and replaced the defrost timer and now the fridge is functioning properly. I noticed both replacement parts, even though I looked up my fridge model, were different part numbers than the originals. I'm guessing the new parts are improved? I also noticed the timer was an 8/30 rather than a 10/30 like the original. The fridge is working better than when it was new so evidently defrosting every 8 as opposed to every 10 hours is better for my unit.

Long story short:

Buy the correct crimp/butt connectors before beginning replacement of the thermostat and proactively replace the defrost timer since it is rather inexpensive.