10650269991 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I first removed the ice bin from freezer. There were four nut screws on back of ice bin cover that I removed with a screw driver, giving me access to the deflector. The deflector has two prongs that attach it securely to the ice bin, I used a phylips head screw driver to release the prongs from the deflector. I installed the new deflector by placing it through the bottom portion of deflector area, using the phyllips screw driver I engaged the prongs of the deflector into slots on ice bin. There was a hook on the back side of the deflector that went over a metal rod that controls the ice cube release. Then replace front cover of ice bin with the four nut screws and returned it to the ice maker location.

It was easy, I followed the instructions on the paper and it went well.

Followed instructions supplied. It was relatively easy and the parts fit exactly right. Sears wanted twice as much for the part and service would have charged me another $100 to come to my home. I saved over $100 doing the project myself.

Removal of the old assembly went quickly once I
understood about the "push and release" tubing
connectors. The exception was the connection from the water inlet assembly to the water filter which uses a different diameter connection at the inlet end, and would not "push and release".
So to install the new valves, I simply by passed
the old inlet assembly and used the extra push
splicer furnished in the kit for the water inlet to the
filter. All the other connections were easy push ins.
Next time will be 1/2 hour maximum!

First, turn of the water supply. Then remove the snap on grill from the bottom front of the refrigerator. Disconnect the black hose from the white hose and drain the hoses into a suitable recepticle. Then remove the 1/4" screw that holds the nozzle in place. Cut the hose off just behind the nozzle bracket and tape the end of the new hose to the now exposed end of the existing hose. From the bottom of the door you can now gently pull out the old hose while pulling in the new one. Re-attach the new hose to the existing white hose and replace the 1/4' screw to the new nozzle bracket. I reccoment using 1" wide tape and only going around the tubes once. Too much tape and you won't be able to feed it through the small hole at the bottom of the door. Have someone feed the hose from the top as you gently pull from the bottom.

Being a jet mechanic I had to familiarize myself with refrigerators, then after 2 or 4 hours of online studying, opened the door pulled the temp knobs of, removed the panel by gently prying the top of the panel out,then up and out with it. I found tapping on the thermostat shaft or wiring connection started the compressor, verifying my belief it was the thermostat. Don't mess with wiring if you don't know exactly what you are doing and unit is plugged in, you will electrocute yourself!!! I received the thermostat, UNPLUGGED THE UNIT from the house wall outlet, took one screw out of the upper inner wall at the very top to remove cover, one screw at the back top to remove the other cover (at the control vent) for access to remove sensor, then removed 4 screws , 2 front, 2 underneath to drop the housing for defrost timer, etc., and then took 2 screws from thermostat, unplugged wiring from thermostat (3 wires, be sure to put them back on the same place in the new thermostat). Remove old thermostat, slide plastic cover off sensor and slide back onto new thermostat sensor. Be careful not to kink the line or bend it to sharp you will damage it, (use gentle curves when bending it,) and re assemble everything in reverse order. This took about me 15 or 20 minutes start to finish. Plug into wall and watch thermometer to verify success.

I replaced the control bracket, which has mounts for the switches used to activate the ice and water dispensers. The water switch mount was broken, so the switch would not activate. It was great that I could find this part (the control bracket) on PartSelect's site.

If the person doing the repair has a little patience, then he/she will be rewarded!:

The first step is to pry off the front panel: I pried off the panel at the bottom. It will pop off, but takes a little effort. I used a couple of screwdrivers to pull it up at a couple of spots at the same time. Once the bottom pops out, then I pulled straight up on the panel. (If you try to pop out the panel at the top, you will damage it, so make sure to pop it out at the bottom.)

Next, disconnect the wiring that goes to the panel, and put the panel aside.

I then took a digital picture of the arrangement of wires and switches on the control bracket.

I disconnected any wires going from the inner part of the refrigerator to the control bracket, and then unscrewed the control bracket.

After removing the old control bracket, I carefully noted how the two switches (one for ice, one for water) mount into it. I removed these switches and put them into the new control bracket.

I then remounted the control bracket into the refrigerator, screwing it into place. I used the digital picture that I had taken earlier to make sure that I knew how to reconnect all of the wires.

I plugged the the remaining wires to the front panel, and then snapped the front panel back into place on the refrigerator door.

I was done!

I replaced these parts mainly for aesthetic reasons and to prepare our home for a rental. I was very impressed with PartSelect's customer service and delivery. The part literally arrived the next day. Will definitely do business with them again.

The CAUSE of the LEAK were the O-rings on the water filter itself. My son followed others suggestions on how to detach the water hose from the filter housing, advise was helpful. After replacing the water filter housing, helpful, and inflow water tube the leak was still there. So my son then inspected the water filter and replaced. Water filter light was still green so we did not think it needed attention.

Remove the cover plate from the bottom. Use care and patience when performing this step. It takes longer to remove the cover plate than replacing all of the parts involved. Slide off each switch, unplug electrical connectors and trust me when I tell you that you can figure out the rest. E Z, E Z, E Z!!!!!

1. shutoff water
2. removed 3 screws holding old ice maker. A small nut or screw driver is needed to get into a somewhat tight area
3. detached electrical connector
4. cut indicated area for water inlet to lie in
4. attached new electrical connector (no splicing needed)
5. attached new ice maker with 3 screws
6. put on water

First I installed a defrost timer, (the old timer had burnt out contacts in it) It seemed to work for a few days, then went back to not comng out of defrost cycle, I then installed a defrost thermostat. It seems to be working better than before. I found out that maybe I wasn't running it cold enough. So I turned it up colder. Now it works ok for 2 - 3 days, then I check the Temp in the freezer and its up to 6o. So I manually reset the timer and it works for 2 - 3 days. Don't know what to do now to fix it.

Removed the top two screws and one on the bottom which attach the ice maker to the side of the freezer. I unclipped the wire bundle from the side of the ice maker and unplugged the connector, totally removing the unit . The maker came with several different wiring setups, but I just used the existing. The contol arm on the new unit basically snaps into place and the above process is reversed to install the new unit. My old ice maker had an accelerator which blows cold air to the bottom of the tray to speed up ice production. This component was undamaged and by taking off the new units outer end cap and borrowing the clips from the old unit, this component can be installed on the new ice maker.

Pulled cardboard cover off back of ref to access the compressor compartment. Unplugged appliance, and pull the start device and overload off of compressor. Replaced both parts received from Partselect.com. Refrigerator works great now.

I removed the screws on the upper hinge and removed the door. I removed the lower cam in about 2 minutes and had it replaced. The upper cam was a tight fit in the door and I resorted to vise-grips to remove it. Total time to replace cams and put the door back on was 30 minutes. This saved me $100.
Thanks