1068536822 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

1. Removed the cardboard cover.
2. Removed the terminal block and unplugged the old motor.
3. Removed three screws that held old motor to the bracket.
4. Removed the fan blade from the old motor.
5. Installed the fan blade (after cleaning) to the new motor.
6. Crimped on new wire terminals onto the leads on the new motor.
7. Installed the new motor using the fasteners provided.
8. Plugged the new motor wires onto the proper terminals in the terminal block.
9. remounted the terminal block.
10. reinstalled the cardboard cover.

Parts went right into place as the pictures showed and was working again in about 30 minutes. The only thing that wasn't working was the ice took forever to make, but solved that problem by turning up the temp in the freezer.

Unplug
Remove entire back panel (both chipboard and metal fan grill)
Unscrew both fan mount plate screws - fan won't be able to come out because it is still plugged in
When looking at back of fridge, locate a small plastic box to the immediate left of the condenser. It's a circuit block. Release the metal spring clip holding the plastic cover in place, and trace the fan wire connections back to the fan. Make a note of which wire is connected to which terminal (1 of the fan wires has white lettering and 1 is just black)
Unplug both fan wire connects from circuit block to release the fan power cable.
Remove the fan mounting plate
Release fan blade clip by pressing fan against motor and unscrewing and remove fan blades
Unscrew motor from brackets - note alignment of motor on brackets
Mount new motor on brackets. Leave plug wire disconnected (replacement motor has a harnessed plug wire)
Connect new plug wire to the circuit block keeping wires connected to the proper terminals
Snake new plug wire behind condenser like the old wire was and run through cable bracket to the back right of the condenser
Plug wire harness into motor and re-mount fan mount plate
Reattach fan blade and secure using blade mount kit
Replace back panels

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

The problem was discovered to be a cracked fill tube head, This part extends behind the refigerator and is VERY vulnerable to breakage when the box is pushed backagainst a wall space! Placing a shim under the vertical part of the fill tube fixed the problem even without replacing it with the new part. So, now I have a spare!

first I turned off the water supply then I removed screw that was holding the nozzle and pulled out the tube then I pried out the face plate by prying from the bottom with a thin screw driver then I unpluged the wire harness so I could access the black tube guide that the white tube was housed in before it was cut I pushed the new white tube down threw the black tube and out the bottom hinge I replaced the nozzle screw plugged the harness back in replaced the face plate went to the bottom and connected the tube to the other half replaced the bottom molding and turned on the water

simply removed old motor and replaced new. I'm over 82 and it was hard to get down and up to floor level!! One thing was a little puzeling -that was to insert the right screws which had a nitch in the end of the threds to keep it from loosening- I thought I was spoiling the threds cause I had to use a little pressure to start the screws and thought I had the wrong screws--they had sent several sets of them for different name brands- but II got it and everything seems to be allright - Could you tell me if I could purchase a replacement compressor and some refrigerent -the new kind. thank you, George Erlandson Only if my comp. goes out!!!

I turned off the water supply and disconnected the power. Then I removed the back cover plate and the two water lines. Fortunately the water lines are a different size so it is not confusing which line goes on each outlet. Then I loosened the two screws that fasten the valve assembly. It requires a nut driver with a flexible drive or a 1/4" socket set with a "U" joint. We were then able to disconnect the third water line on the back side of the valve assembly. I then reversed the sequence to install the new valve. The only difficulty is getting the screws started on the valve assembly.
The trouble shooting guide in the Kitchen-aid user manual is totally inadequate. I bought and replaced the whole icemaker unit when all I needed was the valve.

Instructions were simple and clear. Removed knob, snapped off plastic control panel. Then removed five 1/4" head sheetmetal screws to remove metal bracket holding thermostat. Two more 1/4" head screws held the thermostat to the bracket. Then pulled off the three fast-on electrical connections and pulled the thermostat and thermocouple tube out. Reversed the process to install new thermostat. My 33 year old garage refrigerator now works perfectly again! NOTE: searching for "thermostat" on the site didn't work.. It's called a "cold control thermostat" for some reason. That's redundant; other than cold, why would a themostat be in a refigerator, for heaven's sakes!?

first bought new ice maker installed it-didn`t fix the problem. next bought fill tube kit and dual outlet vale -installed those ice maker works GREAT no leaks -no ice froze together in bend. thanks for the help GUYS.

Unscrewed clamp holding water tube to refrigerator ice maker. Pulled water tube from ice maker and water valve inlet. Cut the new tubing to the exact same length and inserted one end to the water valve inlet and the other end to the ice maker then screwed clamp holding water tube back to the refrigerator ice maker.

I took the old one out and put the new one in. EASY!

The on-line video and the hard-copy instructions with the replacement part made it very easy. Just loosened the 2 upper screws and took out the bottom one. Eased the ice maker out a bit and disconnected the plug at the back (power was off). Checked the replacement part had exactly the same wiring harness - it did. Fitted the bail arm from the old one. So simply did the same process in reverse. So 15-20 minutes after I started, the job was compelete. It takes a while for ice to start coming, but it did, and after 24 hours I threw out the ice and started again to make sure the ice came from fresh water.

i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burned. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.

I removed the screw holding the nozzle in place, and removed the other end of the line under the refrigerator to give me some slack. Then I clipped the nozzle off of the black line and taped the new line to the end I cut off with electrical tape. Then I just snaked it down through the hole with me pulling from the bottom and my wife pushing from the top and reattached both ends. Make sure you don't use too much tape becaue it won't fit throught the hole at the bottom. I taped them together at an angle so not to make tape too thick. Also, you can snake it back from the bottom if the tape breaks and the old line comes out of the fridge.