1067690520 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this time, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.

Pulled the fridge (KitchenAid side by side) out from the wall for the 1st time in a few years and dealt with those issues. Followed the instructions which were pretty clear. I was lucky enough that I did not need to retro fit any of the connections - it was really a straight forward replacement. The ice maker and the water dispenser have never worked better. Took about an hour.

The frig was already empty....removed the plastic control knobs and loosened the hex head screws to remove the cover . The wires were the same at each contact point, so, it took about 15 minuets to adjust the control knob to match the old one and reinstall the thermostat and place the cover...The other 15 minuets I spent finding my wife to show her the frig was back to work...Just a walk in the park...

replaced the cold control thermostat . The new one was oriented 90 degrees off (on the bracket mount) so I had to turn it (in the bracket) to line up better with the wire connections and temp sensor tube. The power wires can be connected to either terminal however, and I suppose you could leave it as is if your wires can reach. Turning it will make the knob off 90 deg. off from original markings (off to coldest) but I simply remarked the position with a marker. (make sure you connect all terminals before mounting the bracket, it's much easier that way. .Note: this was a 40+ year old Sears "Coldspot" refridg. and it works like a dream since I changed out this original cold control. Love these old mechanical appliances that are much more reliable than the new brokered ones. Glad whirlpool has made many parts interchangeable through many years...kudos to them

I guessed that the water dispenser solenoid was getting weak.
A quick web search led me to PartSelect's website where it was so easy to pull up my refrigerator model with diagrams. I ordered the valve kit, and in 5 days it was in my hands.

Installation was literally 10 minutes. It took longer than that to vacuum all the dust from under and in back of my refrigerator !

Remove all items from the door shelves. Removed the top hinge cover and removed hinge mounting screws. Lifted door off bottom hinge and laid it on its side. I then replaced bottom hinge cam by removing (1) cap screw. Very simple job.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

lifted door 1/2 inch and put blocks of wood under the door and replaced the lower hindge cam.

I Have a Sub Zero refrigerator, but has a Wirlpool ice maker. The ice maker has been repaired 4 times in 2009!!! A complete new ice maker one time! The repair man repaced the double outlet valve three times in 4 months. Then they had to but in a in line water filter. This solved the problem for six months. I thought the water filter would last at lease a year. It will now be changed every six months. For some reason I get minor amounts of dirt,in my water. If a small speck gets to the double outlet valve it causes it to "weep" and the tube that fills the ice tray freezes up. Since I have watched so many times as my ice maker was repaired, it was easy to diconnect the faulty valve with 1/4 inch wrench and the water filter. Replace with the new valve and water filter. Make sure the connections are tite. Turn the water back on and in 24 hours you have ice.

After discovering that the water noise was coming from the rear of the refridgerator upon pulling it foward I discivered the connection line had broken. So i got a phillips screw driver and removed the the two mounting screws and saw it was one piece. I easliy found the part on PartSelect website and once I got I merely swaped them out and it works good as new!

First the small screws you sent did not fit.I had to cut and mend the old ones (2) to use them.I did purchase a connecting valve tha I used to connect the part of tubing (my name for it) from old one to new one.I was surprides it is working fine.Not bad for a nurse!

this is a snap! 2 screws an a nut to tighten and it works like a charm. the filler tube in my Kenmore refer had broken off in the back. ( really bad location to put this in the beginning) if you push the refer to close to the wall you can break it off easily. remove the water line by loosing the nut and remove the hose from the fill tube ( This assumes you have already turned of the water supply or you are standing in a large puddle)remove the 2 screws that hold the filler tube in place. pull out the old filler tube in and slightly upright motion. replace the new fill tube into the same hole and replace the screws. replace the hose and tighten the nut, turn the water back on and check for leaks your done !!
doesn't that feel great?

Exactly as the demo instructed. It was very detail friendly and was very easy to follow.