59657585791 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Well first of all the grill was not only missing a clip on the rleft side of the fridge, but after recieving the new one I studied teh one still on and noticed that the plastic stand off that holds it was busted off. So I got the handy dandy junk screw box out and found a screw that fit tightly inside the plastic standoff center and screwed the cip to the grill that way.

First, I shut off the water going to the refrigerator, then removed the ice bin. Then I loosened the two screws on the top of the ice maker (the one toward the front was a little tricky, since you can't see it at all), then removed the screw that fastens the lower bracket to the side of the frig. Then I lifted up on it slightly to remove it from the two upper screws, then unplugged the wiring harness from the side of the refrigerator and lifted the whole unit out of the frig.

I then removed the plastic cover on the front of the ice maker, pressed on the tab to remove the wiring harness from the old ice maker, and installed it on the new ice maker. I then removed the metal arm from the old ice maker and installed it on the new unit as well. The last part that I moved from the old ice maker to the new one was the lower bracket, as the bracket on the new ice maker was bent during shipping.

Once those parts were swapped, I put the plastic cover on the new ice maker, plugged the wiring harness back into the side of the frig, routed the fill tube into the back on the ice maker assembly, and set the unit back on the two upper screws. I then put the screw back in the lower bracket, tightened the two upper screws, and then put the ice bin back in and turned the water back on. After a couple of hours, I threw out the first couple of batches of ice and it is now working as it had in the past.

I also noticed, when looking at the old ice maker, that the black plastic coating was coming off the ice cube tray, so it was a good time to be replacing it anyway. Overall, a very easy job (I was prepared for swearing, parts being slightly off, etc.) and it would have been a shame to have paid someone to do it.

Used socket set to remove screws. Removed the wire harness, then removed lift arm from old ice maker and then put lift arm on the new ice maker. Reinstall wire harness then installed back in freeze with the screws. Video was very helpful. I will do business with Partselect in the future. Shipping was very fast. Thanks Partselect

We removed the old switch, unplugged it, plugged the new one in and it was easy to do. But when we tried to put the switch back in we had a very hard time doing it. Eventually got it in, but if it had not been for the difficulty we had getting the new switch to snap in to place, it would have taken under 5 minutes.

removed old ice maker by taking out a couple of screws in the back of freezer,when new ice maker arrived i saw that it didn't have the same hose apparatus as old one so I easily took apart old one then took apart new one and switched them out-very-- easily done for a 61 yr old lady I might add-- also had to reinstall ice maker arm off old ice maker as new one does not come with one Then installed new ice maker in freezer I am very very pleased,sure saved a lot of money doing it my self

This was the third icemaker replaced since January 1999. Improvement need to be made in the design of the icemaker so that more than 2-3 years of life is available.
The most difficult part was disconnecting the power plug in the back of the icemaker. You must squeeze the upper and lower tabs together and pull out at the same time to disconnect. Once this is done, take out one nut head screw, lift up on the icemaker and remove from the hanger. Be careful that you don't break the plastic tabs on the hangers. Replace new icemaker in reverse, feed water supply where it must go in the back, resnap onto hangers, replace the nut head screw and snap in the power plug. It took about 2 hours before the icemaker began making ice. It has been working fine ever since. PS. I saved about $200.00 over having a repairman come in and replace the unit.

I replaced the defrost timer, and then the defrost thermostat. I diagnosed these two items because it would get cold/freeze great for about 12-24 hours and then would start to warm back up. I pulled the cover off that covers the evaporator coil and found it to be frosted up. This told me that the defrost timer probably wasn't working properly. Decided to replace the defrost thermostat while I was in there as a precaution. It was much much cheaper than having to replace a side by side!!

Removed pin holding the wheel along with leveling screw. Put new wheel in place, replace pin and screw. Done...very easy.

First took the shelving unit and deli drawer out. Then removed the screws that were still attached. Took off the broken frame and replaced with the new frame. Put the screws back and put the unit back in the refrigerator.

Removed the 3 screws that hold the ice maker in place and remove the cover and level wire. Put the cover and wire on new part and install the 3 screws. Had ice within 1 hour. A very easy job for the do it yourselfer. Suspect the heat coil that melts the cubes was not working in the old unit and cubes stayed in the tray.

Reassembled auger assembly to new ice bucket with new screws. Fairly simple and straight forward.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

The defrost circut stopped working which caused the coils to frost over stopping the blower and freezing the water line. Take everything out of the freezer, remove lower back pannel held in by around 8 screws inside the freezer. The thermostat was attached to the upper right coil. It clips on to the coil. Wires attach to the fan and defrost heater. A pair of wires runs out through a hole. These wires are to measure thermostat. It will read 0 ohms when frozen. Rremove and replace the thermostat. The defrost heater should read around 25 ohms. Remove the bottom grill. It pops off. The box in the middle houses the defrost timer. Remove the 2 screws holding the box to the chasis and then remove the defrost timer screws... Before buttoning everythigng up, plug the fridge in to the power and wait for about an hour. The fan in the freezer just above the coils should be running and circulating cool air through the fridge and freezer. Depending on how long your freezer was unplugged, the water should be thawed enough to dispense water again.

Replaced the relay and capacitor it runs.

0. Tools required: small Phillips screw driver and a normal length 3/16th inch Nut Driver. Some duct tape would be handy as well - for securing the wiring housing out of the way.

1. Unplug the refrigerator or trip the controlling circuit breaker to remove the possibility of an unpleasant surprises such as electrical shock, electrical arc, further damage to the refrigerator, burns to yourself, or death.

3. Remove the two small Philips-head screws located on the under side of the bezel surrounding the ice and water dispenser.

3. Carefully lift, pull, and remove the bezel.

4. Note the locations and relative positions of all the components behind the bezel. A digital photograph (or three) from various angles for future reference when reassembling the dispenser would be a good idea - if a camera is available.

3. Remove the two screws that hold the plastic housing and metal shroud containing wiring and switches. Tape the shroud and housing together and tie or tape it out of the way. If you ignored step #1, make sure you tape both the plastic tray and the metal shroud together as they were installed so that you cover any exposed wires or connectors inside the plastic housing. All the switches will still be "hot" and can cause the dispensers to activate at unexpected and mostly inconvenient times.

4. Slip the ice door damper spring (wire loop) off the ice door mechanism. Do not abruptly push or pull on the damper spring loop when it is disconnected from the door mechanism - you may damage it.

5. Remove the two screws that hold the retaining tabs in place for the water dispenser activator; the two screws that hold the retaining tabs in place for the ice dispenser activator; and the two screws that hold the spring-loaded ice door-closing mechanism in place. That is a total of six screws: four retaining tab screws for the activators and the two screws retaining the spring-loaded ice door mechanism.

6. Slip the water dispenser activator arm down, off the water feed tube, and put it aside.

7. Remove the ice dispenser activator arm and spring-loaded ice door- closing mechanism as a unit and note how it is fitted together. Then remove and put aside the ice door and closing mechanism. Save the spring-loaded ice door closing mechanism for reinstallation with the new dispenser

8. Reinstall the new water dispenser activator arm over the water feed tube and reinstall the metal tabs and tab retaining screws.

9. Assemble the new ice dispenser arm and the existing spring-loaded ice door- closing mechanism as you noted it to be during the disassembly process.

10. Reinstall the new ice dispenser activator arm and spring-loaded ice door closing mechanism. It seemed easier to secure the dispenser activator with the screws and metal tabs first and then the spring-loaded ice door closing mechanism.

11. Reinstall the plastic housing containing the electrical components and the metal shroud and secure in place with the two screws that were removed in Step #3. Restore electrical power to the system.

12. Test both the water dispenser and ice dispenser for proper operation. If both dispensers appear to operate correctly, reinstall the bezel with the two small Philips screws and you are done.

13. If either of the dispensers does not work, you will have to trouble shoot the problem. A common problem seemed to be that the activator arm was not making contact with the switch in the plastic housing. You will have to go back and ensure that all the components are properly installed - there are no other adjustments and simply pushing harder on the actuator may break the newly installed part.

All the screws and components are easily accessible, so I think that the entire repair process should take about 30 to 45 minutes unless Step 12 fails and Step 13 is required. Then it may take a couple hours to figure out and get things set right.