10653504300 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

The plastic lower door closing cam was worn down. Replacing it was very simple: remove the top door hinge by unscrewing three nuts; lift the door off the lower hinge; unscrew and remove the lower door hinge; screw the new plastic lower door closing cam on to the new door hinge; screw the new lower door hinge; lift the door back on to the lower door hinge; screw the top door hinge.

Turn off the fridge and unplug the power. Inside the refrigerator unit, remove two plastic panels extending from the front to the rear cooling vent by unscrewing two screws. Gently unhook the thermostat tube from the rear vent.

On the control panel, gently pry off the two control knobs and the front control panel. Remove four screws to drop down the control assembly. Unplug the left electrical connector and unscrew the lever control arm being careful not to bend it. Disconnect the right side electrical connector and you can now remove the control unit to a table to easily work on it.

Undo two screws to remove the thermostat bracket. Undo two more screws to remove the thermostat assembly. Install the new thermostat and reverse the process just described. It takes about 15 minutes if you know what to do ahead of time. You will have to reuse the plastic tube that covers the thermostat sensing tube.

The design of this refrigerator door (it's a side-by-side) is somewhat unbelievable. The door is designed to hold things, yet when you do the weight of the door wears out the lower door cams. The cams are designed to "complete the door closing", i.e. when you gently push on the door the cam mechanism takes over. When the cams wear, the door fails to close. Note to others - you may mistakenly think that the failure of the door to close is related to the seal; it is not.

The repair is quite easy; remove the upper cover, using a not driver (socket), then remove the upper door bracket. Make sure you hold the door or have someone else hold it. After the fasteners are removed gently lift up on the door and remove it from the lower cam assembly. You will see two plastic cam pieces; one on the lower bracket and one on the door. Both need to be changed to effectively "renew" the door closing mechanism. Once the cams are replaced the door can be reassembled to the refrigerator.

I removed the Ice door front cover on freezer door. Found door pivot was broken. I installed door pivot bracket, and dashpot in kit. I used most of the kit to repair it. The door now works like new. Thanks for the right parts Frank

removed the three screw holding the broken unit - pulled off the old module.

Before I could install new module I had to loosen some fasteners on ice maker so I could turn shaft to align with new module.

Then push on new unit and three screws. Had tumbling ice in about an hour. My wife thinks I'm a hero. (I am)

Replaced upper cam piece on bottom hinge and also replaced pivot thimble on upper hinge.
No problems, except pivot thimble glued in place. Had to cut up and pull out with pliers. Everything works like new now.

Removed six screws from cover in the back of the freezer. Removed old fan . Removed power wires from old motor. Unclipped old motor from the mounting bracket. Replaced old motor and reversed the rest of the parts. Done

Removed the lower back panel (10 small screws)Found the condenser motor froze up and not moving air across the cooling coils.So I got a small table fan and set it behind the fridge and it kept the fridge cooling for 3 days till the new fan motor arrived. Removed 3 small screws holding the fan motor in the bracket and unpluged the wiring harness.Removed the fan from old motor and used it on the new motor.Replaced the fan in the bracket and plugged the wiring harness back in. Worked great. Very easy.Did not have to empty fridge because table fan kept coils cool. Ordering part was easy and shipping fast.Great job guys!!

At their site was ordering each piece by # and cost and it was adding up to be costly. Went to partselect and was doing the same and up pops the ice door kit. Was a little wary because my original had a heater tape to it. Got the kit and installed not a problem at all. 100% satisfied would recommend to anyone.

I removed the back panel off the fridge and removed the old start relay device by simply unplugging it from the compressor. I had to detatch two wires and a capacitor from the device. The old start relay was definitely bad and you could tell by shaking it. Plugged in the new start relay device, reattached the wires and capacitor and was done. Fridge is perfect now! Very simple!

The fridge side would freeze everything regardless of setting. First, unplug the unit. Remove control knobs and pry off the face plate which is snapped on. Remove the four nuts holding the control box to the top of the fridge. Note there is a mettle rod and the thermostat sensor lead inside a clear plastic tube leading from the control box to the back left corner of the fridge. Remove their cover (one screw). Under this cover in the back is the vent assembly screw. Remove it. On the freezer side, you also have to remove the light cover (snap on) and the vent cover behind it (one screw). This allows access to remove the vent on the fridge side. Squeeze the tabs on the vent(freezer side) that lock the vent in place and push it through to the fridge side. Now disconnect all wire connectors between the control box and the fridge. They have locking tabs that have to be pried out to release. Remove the two screws holding the thermostat to the control box, and one at a time transfer the wires from the old stat to the new one and mount the new one in place. Snap the old thermostat sensor lead out of the vent assembly, straighten it out and pull the plastic tube off. Put a lubricant on the new stat lead to ease in inserting it into the tube. Do not kink the lead. Re assemble in reverse order, plug up the fridge.

Put new drawer in fridge.

To get the coupler off the motor shaft I took two adjustable wrenches and slit the old coupler where it was cracked.The threads on the motor shaft were stripped closest to the motor.I took two thin washers and put them on the motor shaft so the new coupler would not turn down to where the threads on the motor were sripped.Since the threads on the coupler are left hand they keep the coupler tight as the motor turns the dispenser auger to dispense the ice.I was a bit difficult to unplug the wiring harness but got it after we used a screwdriver to keep the tab bent down until the harness was unplugged.

First off, if you have the stainless steel panel inserts on your refrigerator you'll need to remove those to do this repair. I kept looking for the access holes on the underside of the dispenser panel that you're supposed to insert a screwdriver into to pry it off. It wasn't until I removed the freezer door handle, slid the lower stainless panel insert out, and removed the rail just beneath the dispenser that I could see and access these holes. I also removed the upper stainless panel and rail just above the dispenser to allow enough movement get the dispenser cover off and out. The rest of the repair is pretty straightforward. The old ice door was beaten up and not closing completely, this was letting warm air into the freezer which was melting and re-freezing. This kit fixed the problem.

I just removed a few screews and took the cover out of the ice box. Put my voltage meter to the refrigeator and realized the the unit was not defrosting...I then got the part number and entered it in on your web site. A few days later my part arrived. I put the part on and in just about 20 minutes I was up an running again...Thank you Part Select for fast and great service. I own 35 rental properties and having a online appliance parts store really saves me a lot of time and money.

Thank you
Curtis Hall