2536072100A Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the shelves, unscrewed the cover panel of the fan motor and regulator dial, disconnected the fan motor from power, unscrewed 2 screws holding the motor to the mounting bracket and put the new motor in it's place. New motor had no thread in the mounting holes, so I put new tread in so I could use the 2 screws. Another option would have been to drill all the way through the mounting holes and use longer screws or bolts. Of course I turned the power off before I started repairs. Freezer runs like new now. Technicians wanted $400 for the job, while it cost me a mere $55 for the Motor.

I first replaced the defrost timer about a week prior and it did not correct the problem. I then ordered the thermostat from partselect and within 15 minutes had the part installed. My refridgerator has been running correctly for a couple weeks.

I replaced the timer and the defrost thermostat. The defrost thermostat replacement was almost exactly like the training video here. The old part attached slightly differently. The most time consuming part was thawing out the heat exchanger, which was completely covered with ice, inside and out.

Compared to the training video, the timer took more work given its location. It was low to the ground and a bit difficult to get at around the other wires and parts. However, the new part fit perfectly. I just unplugged and unscrewed the old part then reversed those steps with the new one.

Removed the old defrost timer by removing 4 screws on the holding bracket. Disconnected the wire harness. Reconnected the wire harness to the new part. Installed the new part with 2 screws on the top of the molded bracket. I am a 67 year old woman... easy-peasy. (the defost timer is located in the bottom left rear of the freezer.

After receiving the part in the mail I removed it from the box and laid it flay on the floor. I had to use a hair dryer to CAREFULLY work it flat from the shipping. This took about an hour and a glass of scotch. I then let it sit over night to get the gasket as flat as possible. The next day I unloaded the freezer, unplugged it, and pulled the old gasket off by removing all the screws. I carefully slide the seal out of the track and did not remove the cover from the door. I left the door open for a couple hours to completely melt all of the ice and clean out the interior. I put the top and bottom of the seal in the track and carefully worked the sides in. It helps if you use a few screws to hold the gasket in place. Then easily pull the gasket to position it correctly. Using a screw gun with a clutch will help since there are quite a few screws. Check the seal by closing the door and see how it seals. It may be necessary to use the hair dryer to get the seal to pull up to the freezer body. Close the door and plug it it. Wait a few hours before putting in any food. Take your time and having a helper will make it go quicker.

Bought the defrost timer based on PartSelect recommendations, installed it and no change. Apparently the old one was fine but since the refrigerator was in a flood and this part got submerged in water I kept it rather than returning it. I looked at everything closely and realized all the mechanical functions were working properly. Rarely does a condenser coil fail so I decided to look into recharging the coolant. Bought a 1/4 inch bullet valve, a 12oz. can of R-134a and a cheap resealable can adapter with hose, gauge and R22 to R-134a adapters. After a $30. investment Bingo, after one squirt the refrigerator began to cool and after 4oz. it now works better than new. I understand that PartSelect is in the business of selling only their parts but please consider that there can be other simple problems.

1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker.
2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,.
3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket.
4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel.
5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.

From discussions with friends, I determined the problem might be easy to fix. The fridge made a lot of noise, but the compressor DID come on, and inside the freezer was cold, but the main fridge was warming.

After unplugging the fridge, I removed the fan assembly in the freezer (there were about 4 nuts and a couple of plugs to uncouple.

I could see right away the fan blades has broken off, but the motor looked good. The new new fan pushed easily onto the shift and fit perfectly in the housing.

I reinstalled the fan assembly, plugged in the fridge, and right away heard the new fan come on - very quietly. What was a roar became a whisper and the fridge was down to 38 degrees with a few hours.

unplugged and removed the inside panel where the control switch was located. Unplugged the switch and replaced it with the new switch and put everything back together and plugged the refrigerator back in and set the control. Refrigerator is working likes it's new again.

Removed shelves ,removed panel on interior back wall with Philips screwdriver ,unplugged wire terminals slid thermostat off coil ,then reversed process to complete installation.

I did watch a repair a utube video which I asked for when ordering. Pretty much followed most of the directions but:

started in left corner an lossed all screws from left to right. took off old gasket in small sections and inserted the new gasket and semi tighten screws

proceeded down left side then right little by little as above. to get to bottom of door.

bottom corners were a little snug to get them into place. the last corner was snug but once connected. tighten screws not too tight. You dont want to strip them.

test door with piece of paper.

if paper is not a snug tug, you can adjust gasket with a hair dryer set to low.

it was easy. freezer is all set.

Partselect was great to deal with, support verified the part number was correct for my freezer and help with that video.

The old defrost timer started making a screeching noise (probably bearings going out). The replacement part was a cinch to install. When I initially spoke to a PartsSelect person, they said the part number I gave them was not consistent with my old '94 Tappan Freezer. They were able to still find the proper replacement part number. The video that was on-line helpful also.

Removed existing part, tested it, found it to be defective. OrderEd a new one and replaced the existing one.

Removed the inside evaporator coil to do inside solder job, use torch to heat solder joints on the outside drier in order to remove it and install new drier. Soldered Heat exchanger line to drier and 1/4” copper line to compressor. Wrapped with new insulation wrap. Pulled a vacuum on system and then charged with 4.4 ounces of 134a freon. Works like a champ again!

This did not fix the problem. Call a repairman and he cannot come until 9/11. Food is staying frozen. Alarm sounds for awhile and then shuts off for a bit.