1069452310 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!

I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.

ordered the parts ,defrost timer and bi-metal thermostat,assumed it would be more practical to replace both than take a chance . watched a video on how to disassemble the control panel and remove the the timer and the back panel of freezer for the bi-metal thermostat,very clear instructions provided .took about 25 minutes to replace both parts and now is working properly again,,Thanks Again PartSelect for the fast service and delivery

I took out the old socket by moving a clip. Reattached the electrical wires, clicked in the socket and that was it.

Fridge/freezer warm. After unpluging and plug in again, both would get cold. Then, ice would partially melt in the freezer only to refreeze later. Noted large temperature swings in freezer-up to 48 degrees during defrost cycle. Finally after a day or two, both sides warming up permanently to room temp. Tapping inside the fridge near the cold control (thermostat) would cause the warm fridge/freezer to cool again. Installation is simple. Remove knobs and snap on face plate in front top of fridge. Remove screws allowing plastic cover to drop down which houses the thermostat at the inside top of fridge. loosen two mounting hex head screws from thermostat mount. Remove two plastic covers concealing thermostat wire that travels to vent at back of fridge. Remove thermostat. remove plastic tube over wire on old thermostat by slipping it forward and slide tube on to new thermostat wire. Install is the same in reverse. A thermometer in the freezer confirms very little temperature variation after install (3-4degrees); ice no longer melts, unit stays on!

I read a previous entry that stated the stud needed to be twisted out, which was very useful. I was bit worried at first when I removed the broken one and a bit of the insulation came out and it seemed mangled inside, but twisting the new one in worked. It is in there firm and strong, good as original.

I replaced the defrost relay folling instructions I read on the internet--and it still didn't work--So I replaced the compressor start relay which was easier than the defrost relay--it worked and the fridg is working good.

I pulled the wiring harness off the bad motor, removed the fan blades (it was just a press fit and can be pulled off by hand), took out the three screws. The fan on the replacement motor had to be installed out of the fridge. I wiggled the new motor into place and installed the three screws. I cut the wiring harness off the fridge side and cut back the insulation. Using wire nuts I reconnected the wiring. I plugged the fridge back in and it worked like a champ.
The repair went fairly easy. The motor was a bit difficult to get into tight space with my big hands. The wiring harness on the fridge side had to be cut and wire nuts used to reconnect the wiring to the new motor but it was pretty straight forward. Over all the repair was easy except for being in a tight spot. I recommend trying to fix it yourself, you may supprise yourself and save some serious bucks on labor cost to boot.

It was straight forward enough--removed six screws from the metal cooling coil shield at the back of the freezer compartment and removed the shield. That left the motor and its mounting exposed atop the coil. Removed the electrical leads and popped out the motor and fan. Then I replaced the leads on the new motor, reset it in the mounting and pushed the fan propeller from the old motor on the spindle of the new. Twenty minutes tops.

Followed the video instructions.

After viewing online videos of the repair process, it was very easy to replace the evaporator fan motor - just remove the back panel of the freezer compartment for EASY access to the evaporator motor. I received the new motor a day earlier than I thought I would. I took 15 to 20 minutes to replace the old motor. The only problem was the wiring on the new motor was on the opposite side of the motor as compared with the old motor. I was able to rotate the new motor enough for the new wiring to connect. VERY HAPPY with the results. A word of caution: the motor mounting brackets are plastic - go easy when trying to remove the brackets.

Grat help on the phone. We saw repair on YouTube. my wife and I worked it together. It was child's play!! It went beautifully. we were able to "chill out" with ice aplenty!!Thanks...eric

Followed instructions that were online when ordering part. Put a adjustable wrench on the square end of the plastic support and twisted upward. Support bracket came off easily. Inserted new part and twisted downward on the square end of the support and it locked in place. Surprised it was so simple.

Just followed the video supplied with shipment. 5 minutes, even for a mechanically-challenged person.