25331649104 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplugged fridge. Removed freezer shelves and unscrewed and removed plastic shelf brackets. Removed the lower rear panel. Removed the bin for ice. Removed the 2 exposed upper rear panel screws. At this point I was able to flex the panel quite enough to access the fan motor. Carefully plugged the fridge back in and turned it on long enough to verify the existing evap. fan motor was not running. Powered off and unplugged again. Removed the fan and it's support assembly, and replaced with new. Had to cut the wires and splice and crimp with the provided wire nuts since the plugs in this model were different. Powered on fridge to check fan function. Reassemble and go home looking' like a hero! Saved my BFF a couple hundred bucks.

Just snapped the item into place.

I had to loosen the screw holding the mounting block and increase the hole size to fit the screw on refrigerator

The switch prevented the door from closing about 5 years ago. So I just taped the switch down, and lived without a fridge light for the last 5 years. Painful! And wasteful (food spoiled because we couldn't see it.) Thought I was out of luck, assuming light switches were all the same, got fed up again, and pulled out old switch,,and searched the net for the part number, and just started calling the manufacturer. I got this website after no luck in calling, and took the step to order...and in no time, got it replaced, and we cam see now! It feels like we got a new fridge!

replaced it

take 1/4 hex screws out clean out dust ,remove old fan blade replace with new install bolts .

I removed the door actuated light switch with my index finger and thumb on my right hand. I then removed the two wires from the switch. I noticed that the new switch had different look to it,I think Frigidaire must have had a problem with the original design of the switch. Reassembly was just replacing the two wires and putting the new switch in place, and no more door closing problem.

snapped old one out by hand and installed new one with ease been broken for year could not believe how easy it was

Replaced evap motor. Everything is strong and running like a champ. Partselect video examples were very helpful. Would order parts again on next problem. Thanks

Pryed the old loose catch is on the bottom used a common screw driver.pulled the two wires off reversed the procedeure to put the new switch in.took about 5 minutes.

Replaced thermo-fuse

remove food, then the shelf, then use a hot air gun to defrost and loosen the back panel, then remove the panel, then defrost the coil and thermostat area. using wire tools, replaced the defrost thermostat,and re-assembled freezwr and test

The website said 60% of people with same refrigerator problem solved the problem with a new fan kit. I received the fan kit within 3 days of ordering. Was shipped from Fresno, CA to Long Beach, WA. The fan kit was to be installed behind rear panel in the freezer compartment. When I removed the old fan motor, I noticed the shaft turned harder than the new fan motor, suggesting a problem with the old fan motor. I plugged in the obvious fan motor power bundle with no problem. The instructions and diagram with the kit nearly steered me wrong. Instructions, diagram and splices with the kit instructed to cut the "extra" wire bundle and splice "similar" wires (should have said same color wires). Luckily, I ignored those instructions when I remembered the U-Tube video depicted the extra wire bundle was to be inserted into a factory penetration in the back panel, facing the freezer compartment. This power bundle is for adding an ice maker, which my refrigerator did not have. When reassembled and the refrigerator restarted, I could immediately feel forced air in the refrig, where there was no flow before fixing. I observed that all the refrig and freezer dials do is act like a valve to increase or decrease air flow to the compartments. The dials have no mechanical or electrical connections, just designed to divert air flow from across the cold 'evaporator' fins. I recommend other consumers to remember carefully what they see in the video and watch again if stumped during the job. The video was better than the instructions which may have been written in China or India. I am happy. Repair was a lot cheaper than a new refrigerator and I would not have bought another Frigidaire. Thanks to this website. r. andersen

I followed the instructions in the video associated with the part that I ordered. The video was perfect and described everything I needed to do clearly. Repair is 100% successful!

My unit was not defrosting. Defrost heater was not functioning. Defrost heater tested good with a meter. Thermostat (cold) tested bad with a meter. Defrost timer was working properly. I replaced the thermostat but I had to buy red crimp connectors because the blue ones that came with the thermostat are designed for wire bigger than 18 AWG wire. The thermostat leads as well as the wire in my unit were 18 AWG. The crimp was not tight enough for my liking with the blue butt connectors. I also purchased smaller heat shrink tubing. After replacement, the defrost heater started working. I could see it glowing. Unfortunately immediately after getting the heater working the contacts in the defrost timer arced and stuck together thus preventing the timer from exiting defrost mode. The heater went off at this point indicating that the thermostat was now working. I then purchased and replaced the defrost timer and now the fridge is functioning properly. I noticed both replacement parts, even though I looked up my fridge model, were different part numbers than the originals. I'm guessing the new parts are improved? I also noticed the timer was an 8/30 rather than a 10/30 like the original. The fridge is working better than when it was new so evidently defrosting every 8 as opposed to every 10 hours is better for my unit.

Long story short:

Buy the correct crimp/butt connectors before beginning replacement of the thermostat and proactively replace the defrost timer since it is rather inexpensive.