25331133303 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

take the ice bin out of freezer. there are 2- 1/4" screws. these screws only need to be loosened a few turns. the ice maker can be slightly lifted up and will come off the screws. unhook the wire harness. take the "L" bracket off the old ice maker and put on the new one. set the new ice maker in. hook up the wire harness. put the new ice maker over the screws, tuck the wires out of the way and pull down into place. tighten the screws.

Took one screw out to remove the old rail off by removing one screw placed the new one into the slot and replaced the screw and put the drawer back into the refrigerator

But I have back ground mechanical skills, I did see the video one time, and everything went smooth......

Looked it up on how to, follow the video
. Very easy 1-2-3 it was out and new one in..........??.

Pulled the drawer out, lifted the shelf out of the refrigerator, unscrewed drawer slides from shelf and rescrewed the new drawer slides and returned the shelf, drawer, and the job was finished. Thank you so very much for your speedy delivery.

Remove screws from lower hinge and carefully remove the door. In my case it was the lower bearing, flip door upside down being careful to remove anything which might fall off first. I removed the door stop and then pulled the broken bearing out with pliers. Then I pushed the new one in and reassembled it.

Popped the old one out and pressed the new one in. Very easy. Pressed new one in my hands. Fits in a channel. Very easy

I called the repairman who diagnosed the problem as a thermostat then had to order a thermostat took about 2 weeks to get back and install (cost little over $100). did good for about two weeks and same problem reoccured. I decided it was defrost timer and ordered from this site for $19.95 including shipping. I got on ( you tube ) and got instructions(recommend you tube) for DIY install about 15 to 20 minutes. Has been running great for about 3 weeks. ( YOU TUBE IS GREAT FOR A DIY REPAIR ON ABOUT ANYTHING)

so basically if you can make toast , you can do this repair....loosen 2 hex head screws ,lift up on the ice maker and separate from wall of freezer , unplug the wire harness ,it is now OUT , swap the water level indicator to new part [30 second job ] Install the new part in reverse order as mentioned above... enjoy your ice

Unplug, remove 2 screws off back panel inside the freezer. Cut wires on old one and crimped in new one. Light to melt the shrink wrap that came with it. Pretty easy.

Removed the housing with the light, 4 hexhead screws. This exposed the defrost timer, removed 2 hexhead screws, electrical connector and reassembled the unit.

Great resource and service, thank you.

I removed the housing at the top of the refrigerator compartment that contained the reefer light and temperature adjustment knob. This required a small nut-driver. Inside, I found the old defrost control, unplugged it, unscrewed it with a Phillips screwdriver, and replaced it with the replacement part. Then I replaced the housing to its original position.

The center door hinge was still attached to the refridgerator so I only had to install the bottom and top hinges. I also moved the door handles to the other side so the doors open the "right" way. The hinges were just 2 bolts and 3 screws. Now, just if the repair man from our home warrentee company would show up to fix the refridgerator. It's blowing hot air!!!

First I removed the plastic grill (pulled out, no screws) from bottom of refrigerator, then I removed electrical plug & two screws from old timer (timer located on the front inside left lower side of refrigerator). Installed in reverse order.

After pulling the fridge away from the wall and opening the paper backing on the bottom, I could see the motor. It's affixed to 3 metal ribs by 3 small screw/nuts. There is also a 12" wiring harness that led to a simple disconnect. Removing the disconnect and the 3 nuts was easy. However, there was no room to remove the motor with the fan attached. Between frame parts, the drip pan below, the ribs, and small, delicate copper tubing that can't get bent, it wouldn't fit thru any openings. So we rotated the motor inside the framework until the blade faced out, then reached in with a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the washer. Removing the washer is easy, it's just difficult to reach. With the washer off the fan was out of the way and very carefully (it was tight) the motor came out. Reverse was the same issue. Motor tight going in, not a lot of room to maneuver fan onto motor, and needed needle nose to tighten washer again. Make sure you tighten the washer before you install the motor on the prongs. Otherwise you need to remove it from the ribs, twist it to face you, then reinstall it on the prongs. Also, I felt I was stripping the nuts into the new motor. Turns out the holes in the motor aren't tapped. i realized the nuts are self tapping once I looked at them. I'm a big time DIYer and this wasn't bad at all. If your motor/fan assembly comes out whole, it's even easier.