1069304283 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!

The light rocker switch wasnt working. I found the part on the web site. It was so easy. I used a screw driver to pop out the old one and pop the new one in. It took 5 min. Thanks!!!

Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch

I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!

Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.

I replaced the defrost relay folling instructions I read on the internet--and it still didn't work--So I replaced the compressor start relay which was easier than the defrost relay--it worked and the fridg is working good.

I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.

The parts were reasonably priced, shipped promptly and received in a couple of days. I reviewed a YouTube video before starting that was beneficial. Huge savings over retail repair service. A+ replacement parts house and I would highly recommend.

Remove bottom of freezer by sliding out the gaskets on each side.

Remove back of freezer. 6 screws.

Remove fan cover. 4 screws.

Remove fan. 3 wires to disconnect. 2 screws to take out.

Install the fan. Connect the 3 wires. Fastened with 2 screws.
Put fan cover back on. 4 screws.
Put back of freezer back on. 6 screws.
Put bottom of freezer back in. Slide gaskets in on each side.

Followed the video instructions.

ordered the parts ,defrost timer and bi-metal thermostat,assumed it would be more practical to replace both than take a chance . watched a video on how to disassemble the control panel and remove the the timer and the back panel of freezer for the bi-metal thermostat,very clear instructions provided .took about 25 minutes to replace both parts and now is working properly again,,Thanks Again PartSelect for the fast service and delivery

i didn't repair replace capacitor, bi metal defrost thermostat and still not freeze also replace light door switch any suggestion thanks

My fridge did not have icemaker add on. The evap fan is in the freezer behind the back panel. Empty the freezer section (into a cooler) and turn the fridge off. Remove all the shelves in freezer section. Remove the shelf support tabs by lifting them up. use phillips head screwdiver to remove back panel in freezer section. Use nut driver to remove fan shroud. Remove old fan and save the mounting arms. Install mounting arms on new fan and install fan. Install shroud, back panel, shelf mounts and shelves. Thats it!

Removed freezer shelving. Removed 3 shelving brackets (dovetailed) by sliding them up off of the small square mounted on the freezer wall. This was a stumbling block until
I figured out how to remove these brackets. Removed three Philips head screw in freezer back panel (24) with nut driver. Removed light bulb cover to get some grip on back panel. Lifted the back panel up slightly and then folded in down a bit then rotated it to the left. Removed 4 hex head (1/4in) screws on fan shroud (23) and brought down into the freezer. Disconnected electrical spade connectors from motor and removed entire unit from freezer to work on motor. Removed two hex head screws (18) holding motor to the brackets. Pushed new fan on to new motor using a 1/4 nut driver and hammer. Mounted motor to old brackets with two screws (18). Placed motor/fan/shroud unit in freezer and reconnected electrical spade connectors. Replaced motor/fan/shroud in freezer with the 4 hex head screws (15), dropping one behind the coils. Just replaced it with a look alike. Turned power back on to check if the fan was operating normally. Put back panel in place and screwed it in place then put shelving clips back into place and then all the shelving. Appears to operating quietly so far. About 30 minutes to complete the job.

Our spare 25+ year old Kitchenaid refrigerator (side-by-side model) refused to produce cold air. I could hear mechanical sounds and things "clicking", but the temps kept raising. This specific unit only had cooling coils in the freezer, and some ducts that route cold air into the fridge.

I emptied the refrigerator completely, removed the ice cube bin and shelves, and left it unplugged for two days with the doors open. Once everything was dry, I plugged the unit back in -- within 8-10 hours, the unit was cold again. Lights worked, and fans in the freezer and back of unit worked. However... once the compressor turned off, it never came back on. This told me that the root cause lies with components that control when to turn off/on the cold flowing into the coils.

I looked up my model on PartSelect website, and looked through their "likely to fail" list for my model. The defrost thermostat and defrost timer were at the top of the list, and symptoms made sense. Those two parts arrived within a week. The defrost timer was easy to install -- unplug old, plug in new. The defrost thermostat involved cutting existing wires, stripping a small section of sheathing, and attaching the wires to the new part with crimp caps and electrical tape. The electrical tape was there to cover the exposed area of the crimp cap and bundle the wires together. (I used 3M's "Super 33+".) Finally, reattach the harness to the socket, and attach the other plugs and grounding clamp.

After re-attaching the rest of the required components, I plugged the unit back in. After about 24 hours, it had gone through at least one cycle and was appropriately cold. After letting it churn for another couple days and watching it closely, I felt confident that the problem had been fixed.

** Side Notes **

Definitely use caution around the fins on the coil. For my unit, the harness plug is directly above the fins, and required some effort to safely remove while not slicing up my hands. Extra long screwdrivers and patience helps a lot. Put a wedge behind the wheels of the refrigerator so that it doesn't back away from you while you work. And, of course, do all this while it is unplugged.

** For the PartSelect Website Maintainers **

If possible, please provide some better guidance on where to place the lead coming off the defrost timer. The Youtube video was nice, but some clarity on which pole/spade to attach it to (and where to find that info, besides "consult your manual") would help many people.