1064651332710 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

In reading other post for this problem on the Parts Select web site, I checked the solenoids on the Inlet Valve (PN WPW10341320) located behind the refrigerator. A previous post indicated the solenoid should read between 500 and 1500 ohms. In checking, I read around 290 ohms, and confirmed the solenoid was ok. There were other items to check, including the primary water inlet valve and filter. I confirmed water these were ok as the water dispenser on the unit worked properly, and the filter has been replaced on a regular basis. I Ordered a new Ice Maker (PN PS11738120) and replaced as directed in previous post. After several days, the new ice maker did not work. I removed the solenoid connector for the water dispenser which is located next to the ice maker solenoid on the inlet valve, and connected to the ice maker solenoid. I depressed the water flow switch located on the door and the solenoid opened, and dispensed water into the ice tray. I confirmed the solenoid was not the issue. I also was concerned about the ice maker over flow lever that is connected to the ice maker. this switch shuts off the ice maker if the ice level is too high. I checked the old ice maker and determined a blue and yellow wire were connected to the switch, and terminated in the buss connector that connects the ice maker and the refrigerator. in normal condition, the switch should be closed. when I checked the replacement ice maker, I found the switch was open, which kept power from turning on the water supply to the ice maker. Parts Select sent a replacement, and after installation, the unit worked properly.
Issue solved.

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

Unplug the fridge then wheel the refrigerator out to where you can get to the back - you will probably have to disconnect the ice maker water hose. Using the nut driver remove all the screws from the lower panel on the fridge. You will not have to remove the water hose connection just move the panel around a little. Look on the left side (facing the back of the fridge) you will see the capacitor held onto the compressor with a spring clip. Just pull the clip toward you and that will free the capacitor. Pull up on the capacitor and that will unplug it from the compressor. Be careful not to touch the two poles on the old capacitor. Capacitors store electricity and it could give you a jolt. I used electrical tape to insulate the poles and then threw it away. Plug in the new capacitor- re-hook the clip, reinstall the back panel, plug it in and verify that the fridge is working. Hook your water hose back up and move it back into place and you are done.

1 turned off the unit
2 removed the cover panel be removing 4 Phillips head screws
3 unplugged the on off switch attached to the cover panel
4 removed the two 1/4 in nut head screws holding the ice maker
5 removed the ice maker and disconnected the power at the join
6 performed the above steps in reverse
7 the unit has since been producing ice
Repair appears to be a success

Shut off water supply. Unplug refrigerator. Removed lower back cardboard panel. Removed two screws holding inlet valve bracket to side frame. Pulled valve out far enough to gain access to water lines and electrical connectors. Used 9mm open end wrench to press in collars to remove water lines from inlet valve. Used small container to catch water dripping from lines. Removed defective valve and replaced with new one by first pushing water lines into respective openings, make sure they are fully seated. Reconnected electric wires. Installed inlet valve on side frame. Replaced back panel. Plugged in power cord. Opened water supply. Flushed about 2 gals of water through system. Note: water may not flow immediately due to air in water lines.

Checked the water line from the wall to the supply port of the inlet valve and it was suppling water but no water beyond the water inlet valve, So I ordered a new inlet valve and installed, and it fixed the problem. Inlet valve supplies water to the ice maker and water dispenser filter housing. Partselect videos and you tube installation videos very helpful. Partselect troubleshooting guide also very helpful. Great company

1. Remove the ice box
2. Unscrew the two Phillips screws on the base of the ice box compartment
3. Lift up the coupling and shaft (be careful because there is a spring between shaft and coupling and washer)
4. Remove old coupling
5. Replace with new coupling and remember to put back the spring
6. Insert back shaft with coupling and washer
7. Screw back on the Phillips screws
8. Replace back the icebox

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

1 Remove ice tray
2 turn off ice maker
3 Remove 4 screws
holding on the
cover over the ice
maker
4 remove the two hex
screws holding in
the ice maker.
Remove ice maker.
5 Reverse this procedure for installation.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

Removed freezer cover from ice maker, unplugged the harness. Installed the new ice maker assembly,plugged in two wire harness and secured the part and cover.
Results was smooth process, no noice from ice dispenser. Pleased with results. Saved on repairs. Thanks Tom

Remove back side cardboard access cover. About 6 dcrews need to be removed. Remove 9/16” bolt and lower compressor tray frame down to slide out wheel axel. Place wheel in slot and replace axel. Lift compressor tray and replace 9/16” bolt. Replace cardboard cover. Remove 2x4.

Ordered gasket through this site pulled old gasket off, because my conquest had no screws on lining, Put new gasket on top and bottom first and kind of forced the edges into groove using heat gun cause gave me a little problem. But overall, it worked to perfection! Now to buy other gasket for refrigerator door!

Steps to replace Whirlpool evaporator fan motor
1. Watch numerous DIY Youtube videos
2. Move frozen food to refrigerator section, close refrigerator door
3. Cut power to refrigerator
4. Remove all shelves and bins in freezer section
5. Back panel has two parts, a top and a bottom section
6. Unclip small shroud covering screw bolt in upper left corner holding top panel. Remove screw bolt
7. Gently pull and work top panel out
8. Remove screw bolts from all four corners in lower panel and remove bottom panel
9. Verify power has been turned off
10. Unclip grounding wire
11. Unclip evaporator fan motor from power
12. Remove whole cradle holding evaporator fan motor. Note orientation of cradle. Fan blade is slightly angled toward the back of freezer. In other models, the cradle may not be removeable.
13. Remove plastic fan with firm pull
14. Unclip bottom brace to remove evaporator fan motor
15. Replace old grommets in bottom brace and on top of evaporator fan motor with the new grommets
16. Install new evaporator in cradle and clip-in the bottom brace
17. Install new fan blade on motor
18. Place cradle with new evaporator fan motor back in freezer
19. Reclip power and ground wire
20. Turn on power and test if working correctly
21. Turn off power
22. Complete steps from 8 to 2 in reverse