59650019100 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Followed video and used vaseline to lube as suggested by other review.

Took ice tray out, removed plastic decorative cover, remove the four nuts under the cover, slide out the ice auger assembly as one piece. do not take auger assembly apart. I repaired mine once, difficult without a schematic picture, many parts, replaced everything back into the new ice bucket. Easy job!

Removed ice container, replaced end cap that holds Auger shaft that connects to shaft that turns the Auger. End cap plastic nubs wear where it makes contact to the turning stub. Removing a few screws on the front of ice container allows the Auger shaft to slide forward and away from the end cap. Maneuver end cap from shaft, replace using same maneuver and that is it.
Pretty easy, even for a novice like me. A $6.00 end cap verses the whole assembly at around $70.00
I'm pleased.......

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

Ordered new fan motor
Got part took fridge apart
Result was the motor was running
The fan blade had come off the motor
Replaced the motor anyway and reinstalled the fan, working well

The Ice maker unit had to be removed and the shaft had to also be removed, which required dis-assembling the motor drive. The thickness of the shaft and the bearing fill cup prevents it from simply pushing it in place. Other than that I have Ice.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

Removed the 3 screws that hold the ice maker in place and remove the cover and level wire. Put the cover and wire on new part and install the 3 screws. Had ice within 1 hour. A very easy job for the do it yourselfer. Suspect the heat coil that melts the cubes was not working in the old unit and cubes stayed in the tray.

I found that the evaperator coil was freezing up solid, not allowing air flow. Something was wrong in the defrost circuit. After troubleshooting, I found that the defrost timer was okay, as well as the fan. The only thing left was the temperature switch (thermostat). I found the part online for a reasonable price and ordered it. The part actually came the next day, I was amazed. I removed the old part by cutting the wires. Then I snapped in the new thermostat and crimped the wires back together (color-matched). It was that easy and I saved myself hundreds of dollars. Great service!

Orders drawrers and replacement clips. Easy to
install. Replacements were better made

We pulled out the old drawer and set it on the counter to get to room temperature. My husband was afraid if we tried to pull off the white handle when it was cold the plastice might be too brittle and break. When it was room temp, we pulled off the handle and slippped it on the new drawer and slid it into the frig. It was great to have it working again and like new!

Truth is, this took a couple hours of cursing, but that was due to poor information and no prior experience. I imagine the next one would take 20 minutes. The issues are these: videos tell you to use a putty knife to pry the old switch out. That is harder than it seems because each switch has a plastic spring that pops open to hold the switch on, and you can't access the spring when the switch is installed. So it is important to use the knife on the side of the switch (left or right of spring -- look at the new switch), and back and forth until the switch is worked out. Then it can get worse. The new switch has to plug in electrically before it can be installed mechanically. In my case, with the switch on the fridge wall rather than the top, the outlet for the plug was encased in foam insullation. That gives the appearance that the plug was fixed, immovable, which makes it impossible to plug it in electrically before the switch is in place, and of course once it is in place you can't then plug it in. The problem here was poor instructions. Just scrape out a lot of the foam around the plug and you find that the plug is really not fixed, but attached to reasonably long wires that allow you to plug it in with the switch a couple inches from the wall, and then insert the switch. None of the online instructions tell you this about the wires.

This was the third icemaker replaced since January 1999. Improvement need to be made in the design of the icemaker so that more than 2-3 years of life is available.
The most difficult part was disconnecting the power plug in the back of the icemaker. You must squeeze the upper and lower tabs together and pull out at the same time to disconnect. Once this is done, take out one nut head screw, lift up on the icemaker and remove from the hanger. Be careful that you don't break the plastic tabs on the hangers. Replace new icemaker in reverse, feed water supply where it must go in the back, resnap onto hangers, replace the nut head screw and snap in the power plug. It took about 2 hours before the icemaker began making ice. It has been working fine ever since. PS. I saved about $200.00 over having a repairman come in and replace the unit.

Removed rear panel of refrigerator and disconnecterct water valve after shutting the water off and unplugging the electricity. Replacement valve waterconnections were different than the original which required modifications and problematic water leaks. I would have preferred an exact replacement part which was a better design to prevent water leaks and would have installed with no modifications

Simply cut the water tube on both sides of connector and push in the new one.