25331610103 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Followed Internet video instructions for both parts. Two suggestions: Forget the heat shrink tubing and use electrical tape instead, tubing is short in length and difficult to use unless you have a correct heat gun. Secondly, my timer didn't click twice but due to instructions I could determine that the timing was correct in the operation after the first click. This method could be explained as well as when to start it in connection with usage to be the most efficient in temperature and operation.

I watched the video online where it described the troubleshooting tips for this type of symptom. So I knew exactly what the problem was which is the defrost timer. After the part came in I just unscrewed (4 screws) the box which houses the thermostat and the defrost timer from top ceiling of the refrigerator section. Then I just unscrewed and unhooked the old defrost timer and replaced it with the new one. After finishing the installation I turned the fridge on. At first nothing happened. So I turned the dial on the defrost timer with a flathead screw until it clicked and the fridge came alive. I waited for an hour or so. The cooling cycle completed and the fridge stopped as expected. When I opened the door I noticed the interior is much colder than before and right after closing the door the fridge hummed back into life again. So I know my fridge is working again. Thanks to PartSelect for providing the right part for my refrigerator. I will definitely buy from them again if anything goes wrong.

1. Disconnected electrical. 2. Removed upper console in refrigerator by removing 2 nuts. 3. Disconnected wiring from console. 4. Removed 2 screws from defroster timer part and pulled off from connector. 5. Replaced with new defroster timer and put everything back together. Thank you Steve for the U-Tube step by step video.

purchased a defrost theromast,took about 20-30 minutes to take apart & put back together.delivery was in one day from the time of my purchase.thanks for all ur help &prompt delivery.

unplug fridge,Then take rack out n remove the 2 screws on the icemaker set aside,then remove 2 screws on the back panel, cut wires n splice in new part! put back the same.

Instructions from partselect were very clear and probable cause made it easy to narrow things down. I have the manual for the refrigerator that shows the location of the defrost timer. Very surprised that it turned out to be a cheap and easy fix.

I followed the instructions in the video associated with the part that I ordered. The video was perfect and described everything I needed to do clearly. Repair is 100% successful!

Using your online troubleshooter, it was probably the defrost timer and/or the defrost thermostat. Both cheap so I ordered both. The online repair videos showed how to replace those parts. Replaced the timer first with no problems. Removed the panel at the freezer back an saw a streak of black smoke on the white panel wall above the thermostat. Good chance this was the failure point. Video also showed how to replace this unit without any problem. Set the temperature control and let the frig run over night. Problem solved!frig at 38d and freezer at 0d.

Replaced thermo-fuse

watched vido on your site

The website said 60% of people with same refrigerator problem solved the problem with a new fan kit. I received the fan kit within 3 days of ordering. Was shipped from Fresno, CA to Long Beach, WA. The fan kit was to be installed behind rear panel in the freezer compartment. When I removed the old fan motor, I noticed the shaft turned harder than the new fan motor, suggesting a problem with the old fan motor. I plugged in the obvious fan motor power bundle with no problem. The instructions and diagram with the kit nearly steered me wrong. Instructions, diagram and splices with the kit instructed to cut the "extra" wire bundle and splice "similar" wires (should have said same color wires). Luckily, I ignored those instructions when I remembered the U-Tube video depicted the extra wire bundle was to be inserted into a factory penetration in the back panel, facing the freezer compartment. This power bundle is for adding an ice maker, which my refrigerator did not have. When reassembled and the refrigerator restarted, I could immediately feel forced air in the refrig, where there was no flow before fixing. I observed that all the refrig and freezer dials do is act like a valve to increase or decrease air flow to the compartments. The dials have no mechanical or electrical connections, just designed to divert air flow from across the cold 'evaporator' fins. I recommend other consumers to remember carefully what they see in the video and watch again if stumped during the job. The video was better than the instructions which may have been written in China or India. I am happy. Repair was a lot cheaper than a new refrigerator and I would not have bought another Frigidaire. Thanks to this website. r. andersen

The freezer was still making ice, but the fridge portion was barely cooler than room temp. I came to the website and saw that the defrost thermostat cured this problem over half the time. I was quite dubious because I don't see how that would affect the non-freezer part of the compartment, but since it was a cheap and easy-looking repair, I figured what the heck, lets see if that's it. Sure enough, it's like new again. I still don't understand it, but I'll take it. The repair itself is simple, just cutting out the old switch and splicing in the new. Two wires, and clip it to the copper tubing where the old one was. The switch is accessed easily after taking out four screws in the back of the freezer compartment. The only hard part was removing the ice-maker, and that's just because the two screws that hold it in are a little hard to get a good grip on. Alas, you have to get the ice-maker out to pull out the back panel, so there's nothing for it but to wheedle those screws out.

Defros timer was easy I finished it in about 15 minuts but the defrost themostat was hard.I had ploblems with the wire conectors and the tape I had to use Twist-on wire connectors.I hope I will not have problems later.So far 1 week later it is working.I can't belive $50 saves me $600.Thanks to Part Select for the video and how fast they shipping my parts in less than 2 days.

My unit was not defrosting. Defrost heater was not functioning. Defrost heater tested good with a meter. Thermostat (cold) tested bad with a meter. Defrost timer was working properly. I replaced the thermostat but I had to buy red crimp connectors because the blue ones that came with the thermostat are designed for wire bigger than 18 AWG wire. The thermostat leads as well as the wire in my unit were 18 AWG. The crimp was not tight enough for my liking with the blue butt connectors. I also purchased smaller heat shrink tubing. After replacement, the defrost heater started working. I could see it glowing. Unfortunately immediately after getting the heater working the contacts in the defrost timer arced and stuck together thus preventing the timer from exiting defrost mode. The heater went off at this point indicating that the thermostat was now working. I then purchased and replaced the defrost timer and now the fridge is functioning properly. I noticed both replacement parts, even though I looked up my fridge model, were different part numbers than the originals. I'm guessing the new parts are improved? I also noticed the timer was an 8/30 rather than a 10/30 like the original. The fridge is working better than when it was new so evidently defrosting every 8 as opposed to every 10 hours is better for my unit.

Long story short:

Buy the correct crimp/butt connectors before beginning replacement of the thermostat and proactively replace the defrost timer since it is rather inexpensive.

just followed the instructions from part select website - everyone is a repair man with the easy to follow and attention to detail the videos provided - time will tell I replaced the defrost timer and thermostat at the same time - the refrigerated was running a lot and the freezer was icing up on the back right of the freezer compartment mostly - " it has been doing this since the day we bought it from sears - we had a repair man over more than once but still had the same problem and had to max out the controls to keep things close to were they were suppose to be temperature wise. we also purchased a few extended warranties The freezer was running around 15 degrees and running all the time. The heating element checked out at 35 ohms so it must be ok. Will let you know in a few days. One serviceman even tried to say it was frosting up because we didn't have ac lol