36359492991 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Ralph from Indianapolis, IN
- Parts Used:
- WR17X4153
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Grill was tarnished and flaking.
Grill for the water dispenser in the door. All I had to do was drop the new one in place.
Received the new grill in one day after ordering.
Received the new grill in one day after ordering.
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- Customer:
- Justin M from Cypress, TX
- Parts Used:
- MWFP, WR17X11653
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Ice door gasket warped would not seal
Pop off the control board for the ice selector/water. Remove power / signal connections. remove four phillips screws, Remove plastic hopper. Pop off Ice door gasket, pop in new one and put back together. If you fridge was sounding like it was speeding up and slowing down, this will correct this problem as well.
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- Customer:
- JAMES from MORENO VALLEY, CA
- Parts Used:
- MWFP
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Water dispensed at a trickle
I only had to remove the old filter and install the new one - all by hand. I then ran about 1 to 1and1/2 gallons of water through the filter to clear it.
A WORD OF CAUTION - HOLD YOUR GLASS CLOSE TO THE WATER DISPENSER FOR THE INITIAL FILLING - IT WILL SPIT UNTIL THE AIR IS PURGED FROM THE SYSTEM!!!
An extremely easy repair.
A WORD OF CAUTION - HOLD YOUR GLASS CLOSE TO THE WATER DISPENSER FOR THE INITIAL FILLING - IT WILL SPIT UNTIL THE AIR IS PURGED FROM THE SYSTEM!!!
An extremely easy repair.
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- Customer:
- Jimmie from Surprise, AZ
- Parts Used:
- 7C7
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Bulb burned out.
Screwed new bulb in socket
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- Customer:
- Joanne from Fort Smith, AR
- Parts Used:
- MWFP
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Auto water stopped working, found that filter needed replacement
Unscrewed old cartridge, ordered new cartridge, installed new cartridge by following very simple instructions. Took only one day for part to arrive from PartSelect although I paid for cheapest shipping, which was "ground." I was amazed!
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- Customer:
- Joe from BRICK, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WR17X11653
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
My ice container and Ice chute were freezing up and getting blocked, and my filtered water line was also freezing
I just followed the instructions on the video and it was exactly as they said......no surprises.
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- Customer:
- Cynthia from Hillsboro, TN
- Parts Used:
- WR17X10060
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Temperature controller freezing vegetables.
I aligned the back of the controller with the slot in the icebox and it popped right back on. No more frozen vegetables.
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- Customer:
- Peter from HAZELHURST, WI
- Parts Used:
- 7C7
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The light bulb in my freezer door burned out.
Remove the burned out bulb and install the new light bulb.
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- Customer:
- Cary from ORLANDO, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR30X10093
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Ice maker stopped working
Remove the one screw holding the unit in place, unplug it, slide in the replacement, plug and screw it in.
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- Customer:
- Carl from SAN MARCOS, TX
- Parts Used:
- WR17X11653
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Ice Maker Leaking
Researched on internet/you tube; ordered part, and did the repair. Easy to do and saved the cost of a service call.
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- Customer:
- Stephanie from DENVER, CO
- Parts Used:
- 7C7
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
drum light burned out
removed the bulb from the package unscrewed the old bulb & screwed in the new bulb.
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- Customer:
- Catherine from SEATTLE, WA
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The light inside the oven had burned out
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
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- Customer:
- Rudy from CITRUS SPGS, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR17X11653
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Had a drip which filled up the tray and leaked on the floor from water dispenser
There are Great videos on YouTube!!! Turned off power,Removed trim ring, Pushed a philips head screwdriver in one of the holes underneath the electrical panel with the selector push buttons. This releases the electrical panel. There are Three wire sets with plugs. I removed the plugs and took the electrical panel out. Removed four Phillips head screws and pulled out the big paddle switch. This then exposes the flapper. Replaced flapper with new one and reassembled everything. When I had everything apart, I cleaned with window cleaner. It was pretty moldy from the water leaking. Turned power back on and tested everything to make sure I didn't mess anything up. Works great
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- Customer:
- Mark from HAYMARKET, VA
- Parts Used:
- WR17X11653
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Flapper was worn and misshapen allowing warm air in freezer, ice cubes to melt and drip and impairing function of ice dispenser. Frost formed in ice dispensing chute also.
Followed the online video. Unplugged refrigerator, removed trim piece, lifted control board cover, removed 4 screws retaining circuit control board and removed the 3 connectors from the control board. Located flapper and removed by using small flat tip to take tension off flapper connectors. Helper held flash light to illuminate flapper connectors. Reversed procedure. New flapper seals well and cured problems. Circuit board was a bit different than one in video, but still had the 3 connectors. Marked each connector with grease pencil at top edge to ensure correct reconnection. Should note how wires are threaded around circuit board to ensure they are tucked back in correctly in reassembly. Remove trim piece carefully. I broke 2 of the 8 plastic pins that hold trim on. May be due to age of unit as they were brittle. 6 pins still hold trim piece flush.
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- Customer:
- William from Champaign, IL
- Parts Used:
- WR51X10055
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
howling sounds in the freezer; blower fan cycles on/off
------------- defrost heater replacement --------------------------
- unplug the refrigerator
- unload all shelves underneath ice maker
- move ice crem into the refrigerator section
- remove all shelves and the bottom tray.
- remove light bulb cover and the bulb
- unscrew two 1/8" screws on top corners of the back panel
- unclip the ground clip on top
- pull the back panel up; pull the left side toward yourself
- test 3 thermistors (see instructions below)
- test the thermostat (see instructions below)
- if either thermistors or the thermostat units are defective, they may be the reason for fan malfunction, not the fan itself.
- unscrew 2 philips screws on either side of the defrost heater
- pull it out and unplug the 2 wires on either end. Replace with a new part.
- putting together is the reverse of disassembly
- move ice cream back to the freezer
--- thermistor testing
- unplug the refrigerator
- locate thermistors to be tested. There's one on evaporating coils, one on bot. left of the freezer (behind deep tray, with white wires), 1 in fridge section (top left, in the corner, inside square white wire conduit; undo the top 1/8" screw ONLY and pull conduit up).
- without disconnecting from the circuit, place a thermistor in a cup of ice water. Wait for 5 minutes
- locate the main control board. Locate and unplug the J1 connector. The pinout, starting from the side with all wires connected:
* pin 5: ground
* pin 4: evaporator thermistor
* pin 3: freezer
* pins 2,1: fresh food thermistor
- use an ohmmeter to measure resistance. Push the needle of the ohmmeter into the socket, where the wire plugs in, without trying to remove the wire. It should be 16.3 kOhm +/- 5% (for 0 deg C)
to replace a thermistor
- cut out the old thermistor, leaving as much wire as possible
- strip the wires, twist them pairwise
- use a bell connector filled with RTV silicone, to ensure that no moisture can get to the connection
* others have also used butt splices and screw-on caps with electrical tape (for moisture isolation)
- using a proper crimping tool, squeeze the bell connector to secure the wire
------------- thermostat testing ---------------------------------
- it's a round quarter-sized cylinder w/ pink and orange wires
- check for bulging (= burnt)
- locate temperature ratings on the side of the thermostat. It should read e.g. 140-30F. This means it's switches to open circuit when >140F is reached and switches to closed circuit when <30F is reached.
- unplue the 6 pin connector that has thermostat.
- test the thermostat. Orange wire is in the 6-pin connector; pink wire can be disconnected from the defrost heater under the evaporation coil. It should read closed circuit (no R).
- place the thermostat into a cup of boiling water. It should open.
- if OK, reattach the thermostat
- unplug the refrigerator
- unload all shelves underneath ice maker
- move ice crem into the refrigerator section
- remove all shelves and the bottom tray.
- remove light bulb cover and the bulb
- unscrew two 1/8" screws on top corners of the back panel
- unclip the ground clip on top
- pull the back panel up; pull the left side toward yourself
- test 3 thermistors (see instructions below)
- test the thermostat (see instructions below)
- if either thermistors or the thermostat units are defective, they may be the reason for fan malfunction, not the fan itself.
- unscrew 2 philips screws on either side of the defrost heater
- pull it out and unplug the 2 wires on either end. Replace with a new part.
- putting together is the reverse of disassembly
- move ice cream back to the freezer
--- thermistor testing
- unplug the refrigerator
- locate thermistors to be tested. There's one on evaporating coils, one on bot. left of the freezer (behind deep tray, with white wires), 1 in fridge section (top left, in the corner, inside square white wire conduit; undo the top 1/8" screw ONLY and pull conduit up).
- without disconnecting from the circuit, place a thermistor in a cup of ice water. Wait for 5 minutes
- locate the main control board. Locate and unplug the J1 connector. The pinout, starting from the side with all wires connected:
* pin 5: ground
* pin 4: evaporator thermistor
* pin 3: freezer
* pins 2,1: fresh food thermistor
- use an ohmmeter to measure resistance. Push the needle of the ohmmeter into the socket, where the wire plugs in, without trying to remove the wire. It should be 16.3 kOhm +/- 5% (for 0 deg C)
to replace a thermistor
- cut out the old thermistor, leaving as much wire as possible
- strip the wires, twist them pairwise
- use a bell connector filled with RTV silicone, to ensure that no moisture can get to the connection
* others have also used butt splices and screw-on caps with electrical tape (for moisture isolation)
- using a proper crimping tool, squeeze the bell connector to secure the wire
------------- thermostat testing ---------------------------------
- it's a round quarter-sized cylinder w/ pink and orange wires
- check for bulging (= burnt)
- locate temperature ratings on the side of the thermostat. It should read e.g. 140-30F. This means it's switches to open circuit when >140F is reached and switches to closed circuit when <30F is reached.
- unplue the 6 pin connector that has thermostat.
- test the thermostat. Orange wire is in the 6-pin connector; pink wire can be disconnected from the defrost heater under the evaporation coil. It should read closed circuit (no R).
- place the thermostat into a cup of boiling water. It should open.
- if OK, reattach the thermostat
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