10650043717 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!

First I removed the screw holding the ice door shaft (at the rear of the ice container). Removed clip of which the screw was holding in place (no need to remove the clip from the shaft). Then I removed the front cover screws, separated front cover from ice container. Door shaft is removed with front cover assembly, no need to remove anything else from front cover. Pulled out auger shaft, removed circlip (snap ring) and washer from front of shaft. Used an adjustable wrench to remove plastic nut from front end of shaft. CAUTION - the plastic nut is reverse thread, make sure to turn it clockwise to loosen and remove. Pulled off broken auger then reassembled with new auger in the reverse order as previously described.

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

(1) Ordered PS371704 from PartSelect! Best advice EVER! (2) Unplugged refrigerator (since the water solenoid on the back of the refrigerator is powered to switch ON the water, you NEVER have to turn off the water!) (3) Pull off the refrigerator's bottom grill. (4) With a small saucer under the fittings, unscrew the black and white tube fitting. There is only one nut to remove on the white tubing side. You'll need to undo the compression fitting on the black tubing and slide off the compression nut. You'll need to MAKE SURE you keep these nuts and replace onto the black and white tubing the SAME WAY you took them off. You'll NOT need to use nut drivers as finger tight is the key. Too hard and you'll ruin these plastic nuts. You should get only about 1/8 cup or less of water during this whole exercise. (5) Cut off the old, broken water nozzle. (4) Find a screw of the appropriate size to fit tightly 1/2 way inside the new tubing (this is to ensure your old and new tubing are connected to feed through the door). If screw is not tight within the tubing, wrap part of a plastic (thin) sack around this screw a couple of times and force into the tubing. You'll, of course, then need to use the hacksaw to cut the head off the screw as you'll be forcing the other half of the screw into the old cut tubing (6) Chase the dog out of the kitchen and cajole your wife (significant other) to push the newly joined tubes through the top of the dispenser, through the door and out the bottom as you will be gently PULLING on this old tubing from the bottom until the new tubing pops through the doors bottom. (7) Once this new tubing is out, you will separate the old tubing and, using the nuts in the proper sequence, connect this new tubing to the white tubing. (8) Plug the refrigerator back in and test flow the water. Check to ensure the plastic nuts have no leakage ... button up the bottom grill ... and enjoy the fresh water! PS> Don't forget to praise the wife (significant other) and give the dog a treat for staying out of your face!!

Take it apart, replace with the new one, put it back together. So simple even a democrat girl could do it.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

All I did was unscrew the stripped one and screw the new part on. You just have to get it started unscrewing first ( remember that it's backwards! ).

SUPER EASY. I pulled out the ice bucket and confirmed the motor ran and the axel turned - however the coupling was missing. Ordered the coupling - pulled out the ice bucket, screwed on by hand with minimum effort, put ice bucket back and ice started coming out the door. It took less than 5 minutes and no tools required.

Like you video

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Popped out the old switch and replaced it with the one dying

Removed ice tray and unbolted front cover. Removed broken piece and snapped new ice deflector in place. Reinstalled front cover and put ice tray back into freezer. Cycled crushed ice, works great!

Just plugged it in