10651332710 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

From the time I started to finish I worked 3 hours, this included installing the new ice maker, cutting into the cold water line in the basement and installing a t with a 6inch piece of pipe with a compression valve to connect to the small cooper tube, this is worth your time to do it this way, its a lot better connection than the small pierce valves that come with the kit, they will leak over time. I installed the filter in the waterline in the basement for easy access

First off you need to shut off the water supply valve that goes to the icemaker. Next pull the refrigerator from the wall , thats the fun part. I did not unplug my refrigerator when I did this . You can to be extra safe. At the bottom on the back side remove the cardboard cover on the bottom like four or five screws and set this aside. The water valve is on the bottom on the right side. There are 3 water lines attached to it. Having a towel handy might be helpfull. 1 line supplys the water, 1 is for the water dispenser and 1 is for the ice maker. These are push in connections no wrench needed. Remove the 2 screws that attach water valve to frame. Arrange it to make removing the 2 wire connections and water lines easier to remove. Wire connections just pull off. Mark them as to what valve they go to. Next remove the water lines. you need to remove a plastic lock that insures that the water lines do not pop off, very simple. Next push down on the nylon connector push down on the top of connector and pull on the plastic water line at the same time and it will come out. Do this to all 3 water lines. Remove old water valve and install new one in the reverse order. The water lines just push in no need to mess with connector when line is in reinsert the plastic lock. Reconnect the power connections. Align the water valve bracket with screw holes in frame and reattach the 2 screws holding it in place. Now would be a good time to turn on the water and check for leaks. You can check water dipenser but ice maker has a mind of its own. If all is good reinstall the cardboard cover on the back bottom and push refrigerator back where it was. Make sure the water line is not kinked. Aftre a couple of hours the ice maker should start making ice.

I bought a new Whirlpool Refrigerator that didn't have an ice maker.
I wanted to install an ice maker. I searched your web site and found the model ice maker model it said I needed. WPW10715709. This one was a 4 wire 8 terminal. I needed a 4 wire flat connector. WPW10715708. You approved the return. It cost me $50 to return it. I believe you should refund me the cost of this postage. Your web site gave me the wrong model number.

Thank you

My icemaker is on the freezer door. Open the freezer door and remove the ice bucket and turn ice maker swith off. There is a plastic cover you need to remove just 4 screws then work cover a little and it will pull out. You need to disconnect the wire connector for the on/off switch for icemaker. set cover aside. Now the ice cube tray is exposed. On the right side there is another wire connection unplug this also. There is a small wire cable on top of ice tray it just pops off tray and stays there. Under ice tray remove 2 screws and lift up and out to remove tray. to install new tray align clips on top and screw holes on bottom and reattache 2 screws. Now refit the small wire cable on top to new tray and also reconnect the wire connector on the right. To reinstall cover reconnect the on/off wire connector and push cover back on. Make sure cover is on the inside of door seal. Reinstall the 4 screws turn the on/ff switch to on rinstall the ice bucket and close the door your done.

In reading other post for this problem on the Parts Select web site, I checked the solenoids on the Inlet Valve (PN WPW10341320) located behind the refrigerator. A previous post indicated the solenoid should read between 500 and 1500 ohms. In checking, I read around 290 ohms, and confirmed the solenoid was ok. There were other items to check, including the primary water inlet valve and filter. I confirmed water these were ok as the water dispenser on the unit worked properly, and the filter has been replaced on a regular basis. I Ordered a new Ice Maker (PN PS11738120) and replaced as directed in previous post. After several days, the new ice maker did not work. I removed the solenoid connector for the water dispenser which is located next to the ice maker solenoid on the inlet valve, and connected to the ice maker solenoid. I depressed the water flow switch located on the door and the solenoid opened, and dispensed water into the ice tray. I confirmed the solenoid was not the issue. I also was concerned about the ice maker over flow lever that is connected to the ice maker. this switch shuts off the ice maker if the ice level is too high. I checked the old ice maker and determined a blue and yellow wire were connected to the switch, and terminated in the buss connector that connects the ice maker and the refrigerator. in normal condition, the switch should be closed. when I checked the replacement ice maker, I found the switch was open, which kept power from turning on the water supply to the ice maker. Parts Select sent a replacement, and after installation, the unit worked properly.
Issue solved.

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

Received the union I ordered, then discovered that the tubes were different sizes, so I had the wrong part. I had read elsewhere that it was necessary to trim the two ends of the tubes with a box cutter to stop the leaks - I did this, and the leaking stopped. I was then able to go to a local hardware store and get a 5/16 to 1/4 union and replace it. The leaking is stopped, and the water supply in the door is now working like new. No problem with partselect, but I did buy a caliper so that I can check tube diameters if I ever have a similar problem! This is a great site to find instructions - well worth the time to search!

1. Remove the ice box
2. Unscrew the two Phillips screws on the base of the ice box compartment
3. Lift up the coupling and shaft (be careful because there is a spring between shaft and coupling and washer)
4. Remove old coupling
5. Replace with new coupling and remember to put back the spring
6. Insert back shaft with coupling and washer
7. Screw back on the Phillips screws
8. Replace back the icebox

Unplug the fridge then wheel the refrigerator out to where you can get to the back - you will probably have to disconnect the ice maker water hose. Using the nut driver remove all the screws from the lower panel on the fridge. You will not have to remove the water hose connection just move the panel around a little. Look on the left side (facing the back of the fridge) you will see the capacitor held onto the compressor with a spring clip. Just pull the clip toward you and that will free the capacitor. Pull up on the capacitor and that will unplug it from the compressor. Be careful not to touch the two poles on the old capacitor. Capacitors store electricity and it could give you a jolt. I used electrical tape to insulate the poles and then threw it away. Plug in the new capacitor- re-hook the clip, reinstall the back panel, plug it in and verify that the fridge is working. Hook your water hose back up and move it back into place and you are done.

Checked the water line from the wall to the supply port of the inlet valve and it was suppling water but no water beyond the water inlet valve, So I ordered a new inlet valve and installed, and it fixed the problem. Inlet valve supplies water to the ice maker and water dispenser filter housing. Partselect videos and you tube installation videos very helpful. Partselect troubleshooting guide also very helpful. Great company

Shut off water supply. Unplug refrigerator. Removed lower back cardboard panel. Removed two screws holding inlet valve bracket to side frame. Pulled valve out far enough to gain access to water lines and electrical connectors. Used 9mm open end wrench to press in collars to remove water lines from inlet valve. Used small container to catch water dripping from lines. Removed defective valve and replaced with new one by first pushing water lines into respective openings, make sure they are fully seated. Reconnected electric wires. Installed inlet valve on side frame. Replaced back panel. Plugged in power cord. Opened water supply. Flushed about 2 gals of water through system. Note: water may not flow immediately due to air in water lines.

1 turned off the unit
2 removed the cover panel be removing 4 Phillips head screws
3 unplugged the on off switch attached to the cover panel
4 removed the two 1/4 in nut head screws holding the ice maker
5 removed the ice maker and disconnected the power at the join
6 performed the above steps in reverse
7 the unit has since been producing ice
Repair appears to be a success

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

1 Remove ice tray
2 turn off ice maker
3 Remove 4 screws
holding on the
cover over the ice
maker
4 remove the two hex
screws holding in
the ice maker.
Remove ice maker.
5 Reverse this procedure for installation.