1068650 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed old ejector arm and installed new part.

When I took the ice maker apart I noticed that the shaft of the motor control wheel was broken so when it turned it could not trip the control contacts nor rotate the ice ejector fingers. I ordered a new control and motor assembly which arrived two days later. It was very easy to install and now the ice maker works perfectly.

PartSelect was a great help. A local appliance parts warehouse stocked parts for my ice maker but they only stocked a kit that contained other parts that I did not need. Ordering from PartSelect saved me over $35.

Followed Video Instructions

Your youtube ..order part and fix in 2 mins.AWESOME we had our refrigerator since 1983.... my wife keeps her looking new...& happy with the saving .Our frigerator a MAGIC CHEF..the ice maker is the only thing we have replaced.

Unplugged the refrigerator. No need to remove the entire icemaker (IM). Removed the old module by taking out the 3 screws and carefully wiggling it free from the icemaker. Lined up the blade arm with the new module, pushed the module onto the IM and put in the 3 screws. Lowered the shut off arm and plugged in the refrigerator. Once the freezer compartment reached the proper temperature, the IM began making ice with no further problems.

Turned off ice maker. Remove one screw with nut driver (1/4") that hold plugin cover. Push the release lock, (up) on bottom of Ice maker to slide unit out enough to unplug and remove ice maker out of freezer. remove white side cover and replace control unit. Reinstall white side cover then plug unit in at freezer and slide unit into locks reinstall plugin cover with screw. Turn on ice maker and watch Ice maker start to move and tray to fill with water. Done.

removed the white plate, unscrewed 3 screws and replaced the part.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

Watched the video...easy!

Watched the video from whirlpool and it seemed to be relatively straightforward - but as I am afraid of electricity and not much of a DIY guy I had a friend over to supervise - initially diagnosed a leak at the water inlet valve - but after ordering the part online ($75) and before it arrived about 6 days later I started to investigate the valve - initially I could not release the plastic tube from the valve (output to the ice-maker) but I pushed a part or two and managed to release it - when the part arrived I bought 6ft of tubing from a local store who sold it by the foot as opposed to HD who sold a 25ft tube - I also decided to buy new braided stainless steel to go from faucet to the inlet valve ($10) - put together everything when the valve arrived and did not take long to put everything together - time mainly spent after checking leaks - tea towels and small towels around fridge - to my dismay after few days discovered fridge was still leaking at front - so checked a few videos and thought origin of leak must be evaporation tray - so placed a bowl under the overflow on inside at the back of fridge and it seemed to catch the water and no leaks - so I tried to get existing evap. tray out - not easy - clipped into a slot at back of fridge and released that but still struggled to get tray out - eventually forced it out but in doing that I split the tray - so I was not sure that was issue as I had split the tray forcing it out - however looking at the base of fridge where the tray was the surface was v rusty and rust was there on foot of tray - so I assumed that was issue - ordered a new tray ($20 I think) - looking under fridge after I forced out the tray I noticed there were two clips that held the tray in place - but could not see them when tray was in place - so I took some pliers and forced the end of clips up to make it easier to get the new tray in place - so when I received new tray only went in easily - then tested a few days - found a little leak at faucet so tightened the water line nut - so now just testing that water in evap tray does in fact evaporate- so far so good - I'll leave a few more days then attach back cover of fridge and push back fridge to where it should be -I will always wonder if I needed to replace the inlet valve but the experience was worth it as it gives me confidence to attack other jobs - most of my time spent testing for leaks after replacing parts

I first replaced the icemaker assembly but that didn't fix it so I bought and installed a new inlet valve and that fixed it. This video shows exactly what I did.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VdHG_6LpdL4
The icemaker didn't start right up so I jumpstarted it by shorting out terminals T and H as shown here.
https://www.applianceaid.com/icemaker-module.php
The wheel should start to turn. Just make sure to remove the jumper wire when the wheel has turned between 1/4 and 1/2 rotation.

Unplug fridge, turn off water to fridge
Uninstall ice maker (some tools needed)
Remove ice buildup inside water line

Purchase new ice maker and installed it while watching a youtube video of how to do it. Once installed, turned on the water line and plugged in fridge.

We replaced this part 5 years ago, so we considered ourselves "experienced" at this particular job. We followed the video at your site and after some sticky removal parts, we were able to put the new motor in and finish putting the freezer back in its original shape. After a few worried hours, we again had ice. The video was easy to follow and we couldn't be happier. Thank you for saving us hundreds of dollars.

Easy, just removed the ice dispenser and the left support for the dispenser so I could get to the bottom screw easier. Three screws held the mold in place. The bottom screw had to be removed completely, but I just loosened the two top screws and lifted the mold out away from the wall and then disconnected the wiring. The end cover snapped of easy with a screw driver. I then removed the three screws holding the motor. then pulled the motor off.(the next square part under the cover. I did this before I realized that I could use a small screw driver and stick it into the holes to remove the mold and not mess with the outer screws. After I removed the mold, I replaced the new mold into position, without putting the white forky looking part back on so I had to take the two screws out and put the part in place before attaching the motor back to the mold. Everything went back together just like a charm. The ice maker is working good, easy job. Gone golfing now.

Watched a video on YouTube on how to replace the icemaker control assembly. The video showed unplugging power, turning off the water supply, and removing the entire ice maker from the freezer. After watching the video several times, I unplugged the refrigerator but did not turn off the water supply. I did not remover the entire ice maker from the freezer, but I did remove the wire shut-off arm. After that, I pried off front cover of the control assembly. The control assembly is held in place by 3 Phillips screws; I removed the screws, removed the icemaker control assembly, replaced the assembly with the new one, replace the cover and wire shut-off arm, and plugged the refrigerator back into the wall. Had ice in about an hour (seemed the system had a little delay before deciding to go to work!).