36359575994 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

On this fridge, you MUST take out the ice maker. First took out the shelves. Then take out the ice maker. This is done by taking out the four screws on the side that hold the assembly containing the bulb. Then there is one screw that holds that assembly to the icemaker. Do not take out any other screws, this is a mistake I made that cost me a few more hours figuring out how to get the other parts to mount correctly to the assembly containing the bulb. The icemaker should lift right out once the white plus is unplugged from the assembly that holds the light. Then took out the shelf brackets and finally could remove rear panel. Found it all iced up as others have. Took 1.5 hours to manually defrost while using sponges to sop up all the water that would run into the drain if you let it. Was about a gallon of water so using sponges worked well. Heater was open when checked with a meter, but you could tell it was blown by the way it looked. All cloudy. Put things back in reverse order. Had an issue with the icemaker shooting water out and missing the icemaker. Eventually was able to align better. This fridge had also just stopped dispensing water. I think the lines may have been frozen in the back, because one day after defrosting manually, the water dispenser started working again Overall this took about 4 hours. But a few days later, the water dispenser again stopped working. Not sure about that one. I have a valve already that I will try for this issue but somehow I don't think its the valve.

Unfortunately, the replacement part didn't come with instructions. The repair, nevertheless, was fairly straightforward. After removing the plastic parts that guide the ice through the door (by removing a few screws that attach the parts to the inside of the door), I was able to slip my hand into the ice maker dispenser and remove the old part. The part clips on. It is a tight fit through the funnel (from the outside of the freezer), however, and requires that the gasket first be "flipped" open wherein it unfolds 180 degrees. Doing this will make it easier to clip the new gasket onto the assembly.

Removed housing around timer. Unpluged and
replaced timer. Defrosted freezer witk small portable heater. Freezer has worked greater since.
Saved a lot on service call.

Turn off water to the refrigerator and unplug from wall outlet remove the defective inlet valve replace with new inlet valve. Now is a great to clean use a air compressor and vacuum and your old crusty frige will be good as new ! Special thanks to Parts Select fast shipping and original ge parts!!

1. Removed all food, shelves, and ice bin from freezer compartment.
2. Removed freezer light hood and unscrewed freezer bulb.
3. Removed rear evaporator cover panel (2 Phillip’s screws, 2 hex screws).
4. Melted ice on coils with hair blow dryer (needed bath towels to collected water).
5. Removed old defrost heater (2 Phillips screws, 2 plug-ins).
6. New heater connected without any adjustments.
7. Replaced evaporator cover ice bin, shelves and food.

Ordered new auger and ice bucket assembly. Removed old door and with four screws I attached it to the new unit. Works very well!

This is a old 2000 side by side Kenmore frig bought from sears. left Freezer side was building up ice in the back, while right side was not cool at all. The Defrost Timer was behind the light panel on top in compartment side. Easily remove unit and unscrew things. Works like a champ.

I only took on this repair on because of the comments I read here...was soooo simple!
Removed the knobs by pulling down firmly, popped off the front panel, removed 4 faceplate screws, popped that off...removed two screws holding the control board faceplate on. Unplugged the old control board, replaced it with the new one, plugged the new one in...replaced all the screws, replaced the knobs and it was done!!! One funny note...be sure to turn the electricity off to your fridge...when you reinstall the board water and/or ice start working right away. I think I'll go have a massage with all the money we saved by not having the repair person come out!

The first sign of trouble was when the water dispenser would continue to come out after you let up on the button. Then water and ice stopped. Changed the secondary inlet value and the main water valve, as well as a 1/4" water line running to the freezer (it was cracked). Water is working. Ice maker is working better than ever. New life for an aged refrige.

replaced water valve for 50 dollars, saved about 200 dollars by doing it myself

Removed the back panel from the lower part of the fridge to expose the valves and motor. Then the one screw holding the valve/bracket assembly was removed to free the assy. It took a few minutes to figure out how to remove the water lines - popped the colored plastic rings out with a screwdriver and removed the lines. Inserted the lines one by one as they were removed to keep correct orientation. Removed the two electrical connections and plugged into new valve. Installed assy with the one screw. Replaced back panel.

I supported door with 2* 6 scrap wood. I used cedar shingles to raise door to correct height.
Using a socket wrench, I removed the hinge from the fridge and the cam assembly from the door.
I installed the new hinge and cam using the shims thatwere behind the original parts.
I removed the 2*6 supports and the door now works perfectly.

Removed the ice maker from the freezer. Removed the switch. Tested the switch with a multimeter. Ordered a new switch. Replaced it in the box. Installed the ice maker ( 3screws and electric cord plug. It works. Details available on the internet.

There is no access to the inside of the door to replace the water line. I was able to insert a 1/4" drip line barbed connector into the old line at the base of the door and then connect that to a piece of the plastic tubing which I then connected back to the original water supply tubing with the 5/16" union. It took three attempts to get the tubing through the bottom hinge without a crimp in it. It's best to have a second person to hold the door while you "fish" the tubing through the hinge.

Shut off water and disconnected at factory joint at bottom hinge. Unplugged the electrical at the top hinge. Removed the door and installed new bottom hinge and cam assembly. Reinstalled the door and hooked water and electric back up. Part worked fine.