10663142300 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Just installed them with my hands - very easy. I also found the website easy to navigate and find the parts I needed. Delivery was great also - good job!

Removed back panel and removed the motor put new quick disconnect on and tapped the mounting holes. Removed and cleaned fan blade from old motor and put on the new motor. Mounted motor plugged it in and replaced panel.

The ice mold has a coating on it. Over time the coating deteriorates. If your ice maker leaks water into the ice reservoir inspect the mold to see if the coating is compromised. If so, replace with new.

Remove the ice maker assembly. 3 small hex screws. Unplug power cord. Disassemble ice maker assembly. Remove ice mold/heater. Replace with new. Reassemble.

Unscrewed clamp holding water tube to refrigerator ice maker. Pulled water tube from ice maker and water valve inlet. Cut the new tubing to the exact same length and inserted one end to the water valve inlet and the other end to the ice maker then screwed clamp holding water tube back to the refrigerator ice maker.

i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burned. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.

Looking at the ice maker it is pretty cut & dried as to how to remove the unit. I took out the ice tray and just started removing all the mounting screws. The same for the mold ice tray & heating element. I was just sad that you did not have just the heating element separate from the mold ice tray.

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

Had to disassemble ice maker to install part. . .

Removed the back panel on the refrigerator--unplugged the condenser fan motor--removed the motor--placed a small fan to cool the condenser--called parts select--ordered the motor--the motor arrived less than 24 hours after I ordered it--replaced the motor and rear panel on the refrigerator--probably saved more than $200. 00--Very happy with parts select service--plus I had a misunderstanding with my credit card and john at parts select was very helpful --not their fault--excellent company

I slid out the old one and threw it away and slid in the new one. 10 second repair. The kind I like.

Remove and clean out everything from the freezer and unplug the refrigerator. Take out the wire shelf in the freezer. (The fan motor is behind the back wall of the freezer, SO YOU CAN KEEP THE REFRIGERATOR CLOSED). Pop off the little cover on the center of the plastic shroud. Remove the little screw and carefully remove the plastic shroud. Remove the plastic cover for the optional ice maker on the upper left corner of the back wall. Take out the two screws in the upper corners on the back wall of the freezer and the last two screws holding the fan motor. The fan motor won't drop, remove the back wall and you will see two screws holding the motor mount. Remover those two screws, and pop the bracket out and separate.Take the two rubber motor mounts off the ends of the old motor and install them on the new motor. (Now you will have to cut the wires off the old motor), unplug the little wire harness, strip the ends and crimp on wire connectors to plug them onto your new motor. Its an AC motor so it shouldn't matter which hot goes on which of the two terminals. JUST MAKE SURE THE GROUND IS CORRECT! (After reinstalling the motor, plug in the refrigerator, turn it on before installing the shroud and make sure the fan is blowing outward. If all is correct, turn the refrigerator off, unplug and finish assembling the freezer. I found the new motor seems to run more efficiently than the old one.

Shut off water supply, removed old valve (two screws, 1/4' nut driver), disconnect electrical plug, remove water lines (adjustable wrench). Cut fitting off tube to ice-maker (new unit has a push-to-connect fitting). Replace water lines and electrical connector. Mount valve back on cabinet. Turn water back on.

I looked up the refrigerator on the internet and found this website. I got the diagram of the parts of the icemaker and found that the valve must be defective because no water was coming up to the icemaker.
I ordered the part which came the next day. Took out the screws, conected the water line to the new part. moved the electrical connection to the new part and we had ice. Saved a lot of money that the plumber would have cost.

The wiring harness was a straightfoward plug in replacement after depressing the securing tabs, and did provide power to the icemaker. However, the icemaker would continually cycle, with the mold heater on at all times. I suspect this is what caused the thermal fuse to blow in the first place. Rather than spend more time replacing individual components, I eneded up replacing the full ice maker assy. The new ice maker works properly.

The lining of the ice mold (Whirlpool) started flecking off (black flecks in the ice cubes), so I decided to replace the mold.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the connector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.