25352342302 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Replaced the plastic/nylon piece on the door. First, I remove the door hinge cover by unscrewing the one bolt. Second, unbolted the two bolts that hold the door in place. Third, lifted the door off the bottom hinge. Four, remove the bottom plate that is held in place by 3 screws. Five, using pliers move the old plastic piece from the bottom of the door. Six, press into place the replacement part. Seven, re-install the bottom plate. Eight, rehang the door on the bottom hinge. Nine, restall the top hinge and rebolt the two bolts that hold the hinge in place. Ten, reinstall the top cover. Finished.

-unplug power cord.(safety first!
-Removed evaporator cover in freezer. found defrost thermostat defective.
-use hair dryer to manually defrost coil from ice build-up.
-unclip thermostat from coil.
-cut wires close to the defrost thermostat; remove defective thermostat.
-clip on new defrost thermostat.
-connect wires using included butt connectors including shrink tubing (also included)
-replace coil cover.
-plug power cord back in.

Removed the two screws that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires. Everything matched up perfectly.

Removed the door and installed ne bushing on bottom of hinge

take out screws front control panel ,then screws on left panel holding control unit. had to clean up plastic she got a little toasty. unhooked control unit replaced with new and reassembled. The real story is in your excellent web site easy to find exactly what I need and with prompt shipping, I was back in service quicker than having someone come out and repair.

Great Job
Jeff Baker

Removed supports with pliers and used center punch to push broken plugs out of hole and inserted the new supports.

I removed the old gate by using a flat head screw driver to pry open mouth. I then removed 2 bolts that held on the cage that hols the ice crushing blades. Then I inserted the new gate and used a screw driver to pry the mouth open again (it was more difficult to insert than remove). I then popped in the new gate and re-assembled the cage. It worked on the first shot with no problems!

This is the 3rd time I have attemped and successfully repaired major home appliances myself after the warrenty ran out. I'm sure I could buy a new appliance for the money I saved.

un plug fridge. removed ice maker from fridge. loosen 2 mounting screws. lift unit in slots to get over heads of screws. unplug wire harness. remove cover. remove 3 screws from control housing. remove 2 motor mounting screws. unplug motor wires from switches w/needle nose. installation is the reverse. plug in fridge turn on icemaker. takes 10 to 15 min to start to cycle.
easy and cheaper than new fridge or ice maker

After earlier determing that the starter switch was at fault, I removed the cardboard lower back panel, shut off water to the ice maker, removed water line. The plug to the compressor containing the switch and capacitor was held on by a spring clip, removed clip pulled wires from old switch (Here needle nose pliars are handy as the spade clips on the 2 wires have their own locking clips) replaced switch and all wiring, tested unit and problem solved.

I shut the water off under the sink and removed the back piece on the refrigerator, unscrewed the water valve, cut the ends off each plastic hose and reinserted into the new water valve. Then rescrewed the water line into the new water valve and turned on the water. Unfortunately, I was not able to get water out of the door and the ice maker still doesn't make ice. While this was an easy procedure, it didn't help me. I'm not sure I needed to replace the water valve.

A plastic guide rail broke after the meat keeper drawer was left open and the refrigerator door was shut on the drawer, this has happened a few times over the last 6 years. We chose to change out both rails at the same time. We removed the meatkeeper drawer, then the shelf above as the rails are attached to the shelf. We removed the rails (one screw on each side. When the new rails came in, we replaced them with the screws. Super easy!

Removed stuff on door, removed 2 screws on top of door, lifted door off replaced one door closure/hinge bearing and one door closing plate and put door back on and wala no more thump.

First I removed the door. Took off the broken parts and replaced them. Easy and fast to repair.

Unplugged fridge from outlet. Removed rear panel on freezer side. Removed defrost thermostat from tube and cut wires. Installed new thermostat by matching color coded wires and crimping with supplied connectors and snap back on tube. Reinstalled panel and shelving.

Silly me. It couldn't possibly be the filter because it's worked for the last 9 months with no problems. Decided to replace the water filter base first. Repair was easy. I saw someone had trouble removing tubes from old base and I gave it a couple of tries to no avail so decided to cut the lines instead. Made it even easier. After repair, water continued to leak. So, replaced the filter itself and voila - leak fixed. Make sure you check the filter first. My mistake turned a $40 - 10 second repair into a $100 - 20 minute repair. Good Luck!