1069658480 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Took out the cracked one, and replace with the new one. Fitted perfectly.

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.

At first I went to a local part supplier and they didn't have it in stock but could order it for me for $55.00 plus $10.00 to ship it. I told them I would have to think about it. I went home and got on the computer and found your web site and was I shocked when I saw the same part listed for $6.98 and $7.00 to ship it. You guys saved me $50.00. The part arrived in two day and took 5 min. to install. I now have light in my refrigerator. Thank you.

Removed crisper drawers removed glass shelf installed Rail.
Replaced glass shelf then installed crisper drawers.

NO DIRECTIONS CAME WITH GASKET! Project failure as gasket tore on a corner. For the price of this gasket, I was DISAPPOINTED. Door is being held shut with a childproof strap.

First defrosted it to makes sure all Air flow was opened. Tested the Defroster heater with omh meter, it was OK. Found the location of the defrost timer on the online diagrams. Used nut driver to remove cover.
Replaced timer. The hardest part was decieding how to wire it up, tis was a universal kit and depending on how it was wired as to how often the defrost ran. The firt choice was every 8 hours. Since this was going to be opened often, I picked that one.
Plugged it with in 24 hrs freezer wall mesured -5 and the fridge was at 30, so had to warm it up a bit.
Now all complaints gone, Ice making has been doing better also.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

Watched the videos and made it simple.

got the icemaker kit and started to add it to the frig found problems with the adaption to the frig in back for water filler tube but was able to make it fit. had to make a connection outside to water line with copper pipe added to hose with claps and saddle valve, turned it on and had leaks due to the schedule copper was the thin wall type, got thicker type and installed it, no leaks, started making ice. it was nice to get the right kit to make things work out. thanks

First took all frozen food out and than undid the screws that held back on--than cut the wires that held the piece and replaced it but also found that the plug was frozen so we thawed that out, that is why it took longer. Used air compressor to blow air and it broke it free and than we finished and put the food back after it got cold. So far it is working find and to beat all we received our part the next day so my husband could fix it that weekend--Thank you for the quick respond-
Patricia in Marengo Ohio

I first replaced the switch and had no results, I then ordered the Light Socket Kit, and because I had the experience of removing the panel to replace the switch, it took a few minutes to remove the two screws behind the panel, removing the temperature control knobs and then releasing the face plate which is secured by tabs at the bottom. The kit came with extra connectors in case they were needed, but they were not in my case and so I pulled off the wires, pushed the old socket out and the new one in. Attaching the wires to the correct pins, I screwed in the light bulb to be sure that the fix was correct and determining that, I replaced the screws that held the panel in place. Voila, I'm a happy camper who found some outdated jars in the back corners of the newly lighted shelves.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Ordered it, received it in due time and it was very easy to replace. As of right now I'm very pleased. Thanks

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

1 removed bottom off old ice maker (3 hex screws) and ice drop shield (white plastic ice flips over into ice holder, old unit had different drop angle, see how described below, but I just musled it off the old unit) 2 removed "ice sensing bar off new ice maker and rotated mechanical sensor to on (leatherman tiny flat head) 3 removed end cap from new ice maker, then loosened to large screws (Phillips, leatherman) for motor unit cover. This allowed removal of ice drop shield on new unit (two tabs, one at each end). 4 removed ice drop shield and installed old ice dropshield on new unit 5 tightened two endcap screws (Phillips/leatherman) and reinstalled end cap 6 installed old bottom unit/tray on new ice maker (3 screws) 7 ensured wiring matched and routed plug properly 8 installed unit slides in 9 plugged unit to existing plug 10 installed old wiring shield (1 hex screw). Waited two hours to verify water valve worked properly, although IR codes did indicate "okay". Machine has been making ice and IR sensor shuts it off properly. So far a success. I have many spare parts if I need to do further repairs including a new water solenoid. Only saying it was a bit difficult because of the parts exchange, in actuality for me it was really easy.