JS48PPDUDB02 Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

Easy repair. Remove 2 hex bolts. And remove.Install Bracket and replace 2 hex bolts and reinstall ice maker door to bracket. 10 minute repair.

I first had a technician come out to the house and he wanted to charge nearly $300 to replace the icemaker unit. I told him he was "high" and began doing my own research of the problem. That's when I found this website (thank God!) and read the notes from other customers. I figured out the secret location of the KitchenAid icemaker troubleshooting guide (why they hide this information I have no idea -- it's ridiculous), and performed the diagnostics to determine the exact problem. That is how I discovered that the emitter and receiver control boards were bad and not the icemaker motor module as the technician had tried to tell me. Good thing I didn't pay him, because my icemaker still wouldn't be working! The electronic control boards are a piece of cake to replace -- just 3 screws on each. Be careful with the electronical connectors since they snap in - don't pull on the wires, first unhook the snaps holding the wire connector to the board and then disconnet it. Once I replaced the boards I turned my refrigerator back on and immediately I heard the water running to fill up the icemaker and not much later I heard my first piece of ice hit the bucket. Woohooo!!!! It feels nice to fix a problem myself for a reasonable price. This site rules. I'll be coming here again in the future!!!

Removed the Wiring & Troubleshooting instructions from behind the front Grill and used to troubleshoot the KSCS25IN side by side refrigerator. I then removed the three screws from the Emitter assembly on the left side of the freezer. Then disconnected the four pin connector. Removed screw holding emitter PCB to housing and replaced with the new PCB and then re-installed. Similar steps for the Receiver assembly and PCB on the right side of the freezer. Unit started making ice after making some water level adjustments on the Timer assembly.

Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the On/Off button at the top to turn off internal power. Open the freezer door and move the icemaker switch on the right side freezer wall to "off".

To get access to the icemaker, first remove a hinged plastic door that mounts to the ceiling of the freezer compartment by two hex screws. Remove the screws and the door so you can work with the icemaker without interference.

The icemaker assembly will slide out once the wireharness has been disconnected. To disconnet the wire harness, a while plastic shield has to be removed from the right side of the icemaker, just behind the water inlet.
Locate a hex screw on the bottom right rear of the icemaker and remove it with a socket wrench. Then the plastic cover can be pulled off.

Slide the icemaker out enough so you can get your fingers on the plug connector. It takes some effort to pull the plug connectors apart. Once unplugged the whole icemaker assembly can be removed.

The motor module is located on the left side and is protected by a white cover. This cover is not attached so it can be pulled off to reveal the motor module.

Remove 3 screws from the outside of the motor module and the module can be pulled out of the housing. Insert the new motor module. The module turns the shaft of the ice srapper arm. the shaft has a D shape which mates with the hole in the motor module so you may have to roatate the scrapper arm until the shaft shape matches up with the hole shape in the motor module.

Once the motor module is seated, replace the 3 screws and push the white cover back on.

Position the icemaker so you can reconnect the wireharness plug connectors. Once connected you can push the icemaker asembly back into the grooves of shelf rail. Reattach the while protector shield which covers up the wire harness plugs.

Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the power button to turn internal power back on. Move the icemaker switch on the right wall of the freezer to the "on" position and close the door.

The icemaker should start making ice within 2 hours.

Used u-tube video to review steps in making repair. Wires shorter than described but after looking at replacement sockets difference was clear.

I did some research on the website and found out that there is a test with the sensor lights. When I looked at mine, they were not turning on or blinking when the door was openned.

The repair was very easy to accomplish and all I needed was a small philiips screwdriver. I unscrewed both left and right side panels covering the circuit boards and pulled the connector off. I'd say the most diffcult part was lining up the connectors to the boards since there's not a lot of room because of the harness length. Once the boards were connected, they set in place easy and I put the covers back on.

A word of warning, it took the system about ten minutes until the cycle started and water started filling the tray. But aside from that, everything is working perfectly well.

I saved about $200 in service fees!!

Removed and disconnected the icemaker, cleaned all areas and disassembled the failed parts. Reassembled with the new parts inlcuded with the purchased package and resinstalled the unit. Started the unit and chedked for proper operation. Successful repair.

Go first to Kitchenaid web site and download their consumer services Technical diagnostics on the ice maker. Very well written and clear to follow. Instructions step you through interpretation of blinking code lights which is key to finding the real problem and leads you to repair the correct failed part. My diagnosis said to replace both emitter and receiver. I replaced the emitter first and tried it and solved the problem I didn't need to buy the receiver but I have a spare part now. Do the diagnosis and save yourself some money. PartSelect got the parts to me quickly and saved me money compared to our local parts supply companies.

I first turned off the refrigerator. I then used a hair dryer to melt and release the ice by warming the bottom of the mould. Then I turned the fridge back on and let the icemaker discharge the ice. I then turned off the icemaker and ordered the new part. I unplugged the fridge, removed the icemaker (three screws and an electrical connection). Then I replaced the heater/tray with the new one and turned everything back on. Within a couple of hours we began having ice again.

The ice maker would not fill with water. Water was available to in-door water dispenser. All signs pointed to the ice maker control boards. Ordered and replaced the boards. Within a couple hours it was making a new batch of ice every 30-60 minutes. The repair instruction video was a great help....made the repair a snap!

Repair was replacing motor kit. I did not use the plastic parts - ejector arm and separator. Went same as others described. I had removed ice maker from refrigerator although this was not necessary to replace motor unit(Please unplug refrigerator whether or not you remove the entire ice maker).
Removed three screws, removed old motor unit, inserted new unit making sure the ice level wire arm end was in slot. Ejector is D shaped so can't go in wrong. Replaced screws and replaced ice maker in freezer. Note - be sure the water tube is in the trough before trying to refasten ice maker.
Added note: If for whatever reason you need to remove ice maker note that there are three mounting screws (others have mentioned this) Completely remove one under middle of ice maker. For the two at top of ice maker - just loosen a few turns. The ice maker can be lifted and pulled away from the wall without removing these screws. Also there is a tab on the electrical wire connector for ice maker at back wall of freezer. Tab must be depressed with a flat tip screw driver while pulling out to remove wire connector. Tab is on wide side of connector facing inside of freezer.

Repair worked. Have lots of ice again.

unscrerwed the broke part and screwed in the new one---5 minutes

Removed old filter and installed new filter.

Philips screwdriver
Removed screw (1)
Removed light bulb
Put in new light bulb
Closed door to bulb compartment
Returned screw.

Pro tip! Check how many bulbs you need before ordering. Mine only needed two. I got two. I suspect I’ll buy a new microwave before new bulb burns out again. Ordering/delivery was fast. No need to have spare on hand.

Was not able to do the replacement because the part that was sent was broke. Tried to call multiple times and the recording said that you were not able to talk to human beings. I was able to get a refund approved, but did not get instruction on how to return the broken part.