JS42PPDUDB01 Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Easy repair, unplug the fridge and then remove the 3 screws on each side of the freezer holding the emitter and receiver. Swap the boards and re-install. Takes less than 10 minutes.

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!

First I had to figure out how to get the old unit out so I could work on it. The three screws that others wrote about were the ones that hold the motor in place. There are 3 screws holding the ice maker in the frame, along with one screw covering the electrical connection. The electrical connection was difficult to unplug because the locking tab was on the back side of the connection and with no room to work in the freezer it didn't become apparent until several frustrating minutes went by. There were no instructions provided, the picture on the ordering page showed the complete ice maker, and for $80 you get a printed circuit board with a small round item which must be the motor/timer control. The two plastic parts for moving the ice from the ice maker were included but not replaced because I didn't notice them until I had finished replacing the ice maker back in the freezer and wasn't going to start over again.
Once installed, there wasn't any noise, even of water flowing like the old one, could not tell if the unit was working or not. In the morning there was new ice in the bin indicating the repair had been successful. This is like anything else, if you have done it before it is a 5 minuter job but when you have to look at it and try to figure it out it takes a bit longer. All in all, it was simple enough, I was expecting a complete ice maker unit like was in the picture when ordered but only the motor module was actually needed.
We have another refrigerator/freezer that has an icemaker that is over 20 years old and has never been repaired, it is a Sears model though, probably made by Whirlpool or someone else.

removed the LED covers on both sides of the freezer, unplugged each circuit board, plugged in both circuits, replaced the LED covers, job complete, making ice

Replacement of parts was simple. But there are three main reasons that ice maker quits: door sensors stop working; ice maker, or it control system, stop working, or the coil controlling when water is released into the ice maker stops working. It was easy to replace the door senors; repairman replaced the ice maker and control board, which is located in one end of ice maker, but it ended up being the coil or simply a frozen water outlet into the ice maker that stopped the system from from working. The first thing you should do is to make sure that the water outlet into the icemaker is not frozen - use a hair dryer to melt frozen ice in the outlet - don't melt the plastic outlet with high heat. If the system still does not work go to this: look at red sensor on door to the the right. If it blinks twice in a couple of second with a time out and then repeats over and over, close the door on the receiving sensor on the left hand side of the casing and if the red light comes on steady then the sensor is working properly. So, now you have the coil that turns the water on and off or the water maker itself that can be bad. It will be one of these that are at fault, but not both. Call a repairman.

I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.

Sorry I didn't do the repair but my husband did. It took him about an hour and a half. He did have to take the main part of the ice maker out of the fridge and take a couple of pieces off t oslide the tabs from the stripper arm into place. It was great. Fixed the icemaker for $22.00 dollars with no service fee. I can't imagine what they would have charged me.

Had to widen screw access hole in motor frame enough to use the phillips bit with my 12V impact driver. That worked perfectly. It took an extra two hours of trying to break the screw free without stripping it and figure out what to do when it wouldn't budge. Once I got the screw out the fix went quick and the ice maker now works great. If you have a coroded screw go straight to the impact driver.

I first had a technician come out to the house and he wanted to charge nearly $300 to replace the icemaker unit. I told him he was "high" and began doing my own research of the problem. That's when I found this website (thank God!) and read the notes from other customers. I figured out the secret location of the KitchenAid icemaker troubleshooting guide (why they hide this information I have no idea -- it's ridiculous), and performed the diagnostics to determine the exact problem. That is how I discovered that the emitter and receiver control boards were bad and not the icemaker motor module as the technician had tried to tell me. Good thing I didn't pay him, because my icemaker still wouldn't be working! The electronic control boards are a piece of cake to replace -- just 3 screws on each. Be careful with the electronical connectors since they snap in - don't pull on the wires, first unhook the snaps holding the wire connector to the board and then disconnet it. Once I replaced the boards I turned my refrigerator back on and immediately I heard the water running to fill up the icemaker and not much later I heard my first piece of ice hit the bucket. Woohooo!!!! It feels nice to fix a problem myself for a reasonable price. This site rules. I'll be coming here again in the future!!!

I just removed the unit and replaced the mold/'heater with the new one and re-installed. It was very easy and didn't have to turn off the refer. or empty the frozen food.
However , there were not instruction that came with the mold/heater unit. I had no problem but other do-in-uselfers may need some basic instructons
Jim

The holder is held in place with two screws. Once you have it unscrewed you can snap the old sockets out and replace them.

Ordered new sockets and presto, the lights work again.
They just snapped into the holder and the holder went up with two screws.
HINT: I did take a photo of the 4 electrical connectors AND labeled each one with a Sharpie 1, 2, 3, and 4 from left to right.

Removed the cover plates and unplugged bad boards. Hard to plug in boards after attached to cover plates. Plug in boards first then attach to mounts. Ice in 4 hours.

Originally I took the module off and found that a small plastic part had broken. Both pieces were still there, so I super glued them together and reassembled the unit. It worked great for a couple months. I realized it needed a more permanent fix, so I found the model # and looked up the part. That was very easy on your website. I ordered the part expecting it to take 4-7 days. It was at my house in two days! 15 minutes later I was makin' ice, and makin' my wife happy. Thank you for an all around great experience. I'll definitely buy from you again.