JFI2089AEP6 Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

Replaced mullion and pivot block
The pivot block and the mullion showed signs of wear and tear where they would meet up to close the left door.

Removed the whole ice maker unplug one wire harness replaced ice tray with new one.
Very simple.

As shown on the YouTube link sent with email receipt.
Removed back panel. Removed the clip securing the parts with long nose pliers. Unplugged the old, replugged the new. Replaced the clip to secure.

Unfortunately, the capacitor and relay did not fix the loud clicking issue.

The old plactic ring can be removed with flat bladed screw driver, starting on the right side prying it up worked best for me. The new seal snaps in only one way take your time to get it wright.

Saw U tube instrctions how to install and it was easy

Replaced water/ice maker inlet valve from video instructions from Just Answer. The inlet tube for the water dispenser would not cede in the valve and this created a leak problem from the water dispenser connection. Called repair tech and he could not get the line to cede correctly in the inlet valve. Am going to request a replacement part. This has been very frustrating!

Googled "intermittent clicking noise" or something similar and consensus was it was either the capacitor or compressor start relay. You-tubed videos on how to replace these. Looked easy. Just unplug them from the condenser and replace. Contacted Part Select and staff said 50% of the the time it was the capacitor, 50% of the time it was the relay. I was in a time crunch so I ordered both and they came in a couple of days. I replaced the capacitor but the clicking noise continued. I replaced the relay and problem solved! Maybe I could have gotten away with just replacing the relay, but I had them both by then and figured with a 10 year old fridge, better replace them both at the same time and be done with the problem. So far, so good.

Removed old ice maker by removing 3 screws, unplugged wiring harness. Replaced with new ice maker, placed three screws back to secure the ice maker, plugged wire harness back, and product is working well at this time.

Remove back cover
Remove drip thing from top to tray in the back
Remove fan motor assembly. This is squirrely. Top bends towards you, bottom pushes in to the unit. Not fun.
CAREFULLY remove copper tube that rests on drip tray
Remove tray - there are clips in the front that get released by screwdriver
Clean up
Replace new tray
Replace copper tube
Play with fan motor assembly till it fits. It doesn't look like it's gonna work until it does. See youtube videos on this.
Replace drip thing from top to tray - I forgot this one the first time.
Replace cover.

This is a simple, but squirrely, repair. Right on the border of easy (because so few tools and steps) and A Bit Difficult because of the patience required.

I removed the right side endcap and rear thermostat piece behind the pull out drawer. It was fairly quick, 3 screws on the exterior of the end cap and one screw holding in the drawer thermostat. The worst part was getting the thermostat control that connects the drawer thermostat control to the rear thermostat. After playing with the control rod I was able to to snap it in successfully to the endcap with the proper rod connection. The rear thermostat goes in first, then the endcap. Quick and easy. For $23 it would have cost over $150 to call a repair guy ($120 call charge plus parts). Thanks.

Unplug power to refridg/freezer. Removed the screw in rt. rear bottom of ice maker to remove. After removing slightly, unplug pigtail. Remove ice maker completely. Remove large square cover from left side to expose motor. Remove screws to remove motor. Replce with new. Replace ice maker to freezer, plug pigtail back in, put screw back in rt rear bottom, plug refridg/freezer back into power source. Ice was making in about 2 1/2 hours.

I brought you the exploded view of the crisper parts on your website and proceeded accordingly. Besides the three nuts holding the end cap to the frig interior wall the temperature adjustment linkage had to be disassembled on reassemblied on the new replacement end cap. Plastic linkage parts present the problem of breakage, so one must be careful during the disassembly process. Some other type of fasteners for the linkage assembly (screw and nut, ball and socket) would be prefereable. All and all, its a machine. Wtith exploded view, what could go wrong?

Once the part arrived, which was very quickly BTW..all I had to do was remove the old filter and then just screw the new one into place....Now I just happen to be both female and blonde but was able to get the job done in less than 15 minutes (that includes opening the box) and with very little water dripping from the old filter!!! Looks like I could work as the Maytag repair woman soon!!

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

I unpacked the glass and slipped it into the shelf. Done.
What was more impressive was the delivery time. I ordered the glass at about 12:30pm one day and the glass was at my door by 9am the next morning. Even my husband was impressed with that.