JCD2289AEG Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

Simply cut the water tube on both sides of connector and push in the new one.

Removed the 3 screws that hold the ice maker in place and remove the cover and level wire. Put the cover and wire on new part and install the 3 screws. Had ice within 1 hour. A very easy job for the do it yourselfer. Suspect the heat coil that melts the cubes was not working in the old unit and cubes stayed in the tray.

Removed broken dairy door (no screws or any tools were used) and replaced with new one purchased from partselect. It took me less than a minute to do :) thanks!

No tool required! Pulled out tray, emptied ice into large bowl for reuse. Pushed in and pulled from inside the coil springed auger until could get old plastic ring off and put new one on. Useing care not to apply too much pressure to ice dispensing end so as not to break housing. Have to turn auger assembly at an angle to compress enough and get old ring off. Needs a little physical strenth & care not to force plastic housing to breaking point. Worked great reused saved ice. Took less than 10 minutes

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

Maytag wide by side refrigerators tend to eat these parts about once a year, and this is my third assy so the replacement went very fast. When we used the Maytag warranty they replaced this part about 6 times, after they exchanged the refrigerator. No major disassembly is required, drop the plastic after removing a few screws, plug in the assy, and you are good to go, no more frozen food in the refer. The only tricky part is getting the clips to release so you can slide the plastic cover forward, but after a while they break off and it is easier to remove.

First I unplugged the refrigerator. Next item was the ice-maker; remove (3) screws and unplug it from the back wall. Third task is remove the (4) screws that attach the back wall of the freezer compartment. Lift the wall up enough to dislodge the center cooling shaft that the fan rides in and remove the rear wall. The last item is the fan motor which is attached to the freezer wall by (2) screws and (3) wires which are easily removed. Change out the motor and reassemble freezer compartment .

replaced water valve, Still not working.

Removed the inner door panel held on by 30 small nuts crews. Removed the old seal. Stretched new door seal onto inner door panel. Attached inner door panel and seal to inside of refrigerator door. Using a magnetic nut driver was the answer in the tight spots and the small nut screws. Everything works fine and the beer is cold again!

I ordered new solenoid that came with door. I installed it and it was making a very loud buzzing noise. I also had a frost buildup between the icemaker and the icemaker chute in the door. I posted my problem on the forum and Sheila suggested that the heat from the defective solenoid might have distorted the fountain housing, causing the new solenoid not to seat right, and possibly letting outside air into the icemaker. On closer inspection I saw that the hosing WAS distorted. I ordered a new one, installed it, problem solved! Hats off to the staff here, where else can you get a diagnosis first -so you know what parts to order!

First we removed screws in the top hinge, then lifted the door up and off the bottom hinge. Replacement of the door closer and lower hinge pin took less than a couple of minutes. Then putting the door back on and screwing the top back on was nothing.

We additionally replaced the puriclean filter which simply was twisting it off and then the new one back on

I used a nutdriver to unscrew the four bold, I disconnect the defrost heater assembly, I used boil water to unfreeze where the heater assembly hook, then I unclip the bottom I remove it and slide the new one the same way and replaace those two covers and connect the fridge back and it work like a charm. Thanks again Partselect. I save a bundle money and waiting time....

I removed the cover and unplugged the heater unit and thermostat. I then checked the resistance of the unit. The unit was bad. I then replaced the unit.
This was a very simple repair.

1.Pulled all ther baskets and shelves out of freezer and unplugged unit.
2. Using a nut driver remove screws holding coil covers in place on the back wall.
3.Use a hair dryer to fully defrost the coil in the freezer allowing you to unplug the electrical connector and take the thermastat control switch off the cooling tube.
4. Pull out aluminum pin between coils holding heater coil in place on right side.
5. Remove black foam insert on right side to allow removal of coil wires
6. reverese to reinstall
* Note this heater replacemnet coil did not fix my problem. I consulted a Maytag Repairman who told me to relace it..well he was wrong so I further researched the problem and found my problem was the ADCB inside the refrigarator. I strongly suggest you replace this part first and wait 8-12 hours and recheck the condensor coil. Some frosting will occur but tha ADC ( automatic defrost control board will cause the defrost heater to come on at all diffrent times according to your usage of the appliance. total cost was under 100.00 to replace the heater coil and ADCB. A bargin compared to the $400-$500 the Maytag guy would charge to do the same.

I took off the backing off the back of the refrig. & the water valve with a nutdriver. Then unpluged two wire connectors & disconnect three water lines. Pulled out the old valve & hooked-up the new valve in reverse order. It don't get any easer than that. The dripping water dispencer was no more.