JCB2585WES00 Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

First I had to figure out how to get the old unit out so I could work on it. The three screws that others wrote about were the ones that hold the motor in place. There are 3 screws holding the ice maker in the frame, along with one screw covering the electrical connection. The electrical connection was difficult to unplug because the locking tab was on the back side of the connection and with no room to work in the freezer it didn't become apparent until several frustrating minutes went by. There were no instructions provided, the picture on the ordering page showed the complete ice maker, and for $80 you get a printed circuit board with a small round item which must be the motor/timer control. The two plastic parts for moving the ice from the ice maker were included but not replaced because I didn't notice them until I had finished replacing the ice maker back in the freezer and wasn't going to start over again.
Once installed, there wasn't any noise, even of water flowing like the old one, could not tell if the unit was working or not. In the morning there was new ice in the bin indicating the repair had been successful. This is like anything else, if you have done it before it is a 5 minuter job but when you have to look at it and try to figure it out it takes a bit longer. All in all, it was simple enough, I was expecting a complete ice maker unit like was in the picture when ordered but only the motor module was actually needed.
We have another refrigerator/freezer that has an icemaker that is over 20 years old and has never been repaired, it is a Sears model though, probably made by Whirlpool or someone else.

Sorry I didn't do the repair but my husband did. It took him about an hour and a half. He did have to take the main part of the ice maker out of the fridge and take a couple of pieces off t oslide the tabs from the stripper arm into place. It was great. Fixed the icemaker for $22.00 dollars with no service fee. I can't imagine what they would have charged me.

Had to widen screw access hole in motor frame enough to use the phillips bit with my 12V impact driver. That worked perfectly. It took an extra two hours of trying to break the screw free without stripping it and figure out what to do when it wouldn't budge. Once I got the screw out the fix went quick and the ice maker now works great. If you have a coroded screw go straight to the impact driver.

I could have bought the "brains" of the ice maker, but decided to replace the whole ice and make sure the problem was fixed. This refrig was let in home I just bought, so do not know its history. The biggest problem was trying to get the ice maker out of the tight spot without applying undo pressure on any part. It finally came out. The next problem was figuring out the catch on plug-in for electrial power. That done, the new ice maker went in without a hitch and is making ice. Glad I decided to order the part and do it myself for the cost of a service charge -- and not service call and part.

The Video on U tube was helpful. I have a side by side model and it was difficult to work in such tight quarters to attach the new part . I found that by removing the cable assembly it was much easier to attach (cut and crimp) the new part on the outside , then reinsert the assembly. The new part resolved my problem. Don't panic when you try and remove the cable assembly. Hope this is helpful.

removed the LED covers on both sides of the freezer, unplugged each circuit board, plugged in both circuits, replaced the LED covers, job complete, making ice

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

Easy repair, unplug the fridge and then remove the 3 screws on each side of the freezer holding the emitter and receiver. Swap the boards and re-install. Takes less than 10 minutes.

First thought it might've been a problem with the inlet valve assembly but it wasn't. Took the factory unit out of the refrigerator and from testing found out one of the wires (black) was busted so splice a new wire in and motor started working but the "arm" would only rotate to a certain point and stop. I then discovered a broken tab inside the motor housing so at the point I just ordered a brand new icemaker unit. When I got it, I just mounted it to the base plate then slid it into the tracks in the refrigerator. The spout where the water comes out was the only tricky part but it is flexible so you just have to push it away and put it back into the tray when the whole unit is inserted. Once inserted, connect the power to the refrigerator, lock the wire cover to the base plate and you should be fine. The new unit started working right away. Whole process took 5 minutes.

I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!

I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.

Replacement of parts was simple. But there are three main reasons that ice maker quits: door sensors stop working; ice maker, or it control system, stop working, or the coil controlling when water is released into the ice maker stops working. It was easy to replace the door senors; repairman replaced the ice maker and control board, which is located in one end of ice maker, but it ended up being the coil or simply a frozen water outlet into the ice maker that stopped the system from from working. The first thing you should do is to make sure that the water outlet into the icemaker is not frozen - use a hair dryer to melt frozen ice in the outlet - don't melt the plastic outlet with high heat. If the system still does not work go to this: look at red sensor on door to the the right. If it blinks twice in a couple of second with a time out and then repeats over and over, close the door on the receiving sensor on the left hand side of the casing and if the red light comes on steady then the sensor is working properly. So, now you have the coil that turns the water on and off or the water maker itself that can be bad. It will be one of these that are at fault, but not both. Call a repairman.

Found several videos on YouTube that showed how easy this is to remove and replace. They were all very accurate except they forgot to mention that the water fill tube is in the way when you try to slide the mechanism out of the refrigerator. Don't be afraid to bend the tube for both removal and replacement.

Called a repairman out. For $125 he told me what I already knew! The ice maker wasn't working. Said I needed new emitter boards and ice maker. Would go back to the shop and call me with an estimate. Estimated parts were $330 plus another service call to put them in.
Went on line and found PartSelect. Emitter boards were $87+shipping. Ordered. Arrived in 3 days. 3 screws on each side. Unplugged old boards. Plugged in new. 15 minutes. Still did not work. Took out ice maker and examined. Gear that drives ice ejector fell off. End of shaft broken. Ordered new motor unit from PartSelect. $61+shipping. Arrived in 2 days. Loosened 1 nut screw. Slid ice maker out. Unplugged. Removed motor cover. 3 screws removed motor. Replaced with new motor and reassembled. 15-20 minutes max.
3 hours later had ice coming out for under $160. Wish I had known sooner. Thanks PartSelect.

The emitter code: Hold the flap that covers the receiver. (On the left) If the emitter does not stay red, the emitter and receiver are defected.

Replaced the emitter and receiver board

Unplug the refrigerator:

I first removed the ice-maker service door by removing the 2 screws at the top. Next, I removed the 3 screws on the lift side that housed the receiver. It is close, so remove the 1 gold screws on the receiver. This will allow you to separate the switch without any damage. Plug the new receiver in and reverse the process. Put the gold screw in to secure the board. Replace the 3 screws back into the receiver panel.

Remove the 3 screws on the right side. The emitter has 2 gold screws. Remove them so I could separate the switch. Plug the new switch in and replace the 2 gold screws.
Place the 3 screws back into the right side panel.

This process took roughly 30 minutes. After assembly, the ice make was dropping ice in 30 minutes.

There are several large parts places in my area but I saved about $35 by ordering online.
I place my order on Friday morning and the part was in my hands Saturday @ 6: 30 PM the next day.




Oliver of Riverdale, Ga