JCD2389DEQ Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

simply removed old motor and replaced new. I'm over 82 and it was hard to get down and up to floor level!! One thing was a little puzeling -that was to insert the right screws which had a nitch in the end of the threds to keep it from loosening- I thought I was spoiling the threds cause I had to use a little pressure to start the screws and thought I had the wrong screws--they had sent several sets of them for different name brands- but II got it and everything seems to be allright - Could you tell me if I could purchase a replacement compressor and some refrigerent -the new kind. thank you, George Erlandson Only if my comp. goes out!!!

Removed about 6 screws. Replaced the solenoid and door kit. Replaced the screws. These parts were easy to replace. They were also super easy to identify and order from the site. I received them two days after I placed my order.
Thanks partselect.com!

followed the instructions provided and that's it!

Very easy to remove one screw holding the enclosuer, then unplug the wire harness, remove 4 screws holding the solinoid, and the 4 screws holding the auger motor. The hardest part was removing the auger from the shaft of the motor. this took most of the time. reassembly went very fast.

1. Turn off fridge and Pull plug from wall.
1a. Turn OFF water supply!
2. Remove rear dust cover to gain access to water valve.
3. Mark power connectors(red/green) attached to water valve before removing them. Remove connectors.
4. Remove supply line from old valve.
5. loosen mounting screw holding old valve in place.
6. remove valve.
7. disconnect two plastic water lines from valve.
8. Cut 1/2 inch off the end of each plastic line to get to un-streached line. Make sure you have enough line to still reach valve!
9. Insert plastic lines FIRMLY into outlets of NEW VALVE to lock in place. outlets are different sizes so you can't reverse them!
10. Install new valve and tighten mounting screw.
11. replace/tighten supply line to new valve.
13. Replace dust cover!
14. Plug in, Turn on fridge.
15. Turn on water supply, bleed air out by drawing a glass of water at door, and check for leaks!
All Done!

My husband first replaced the Defrost heater and the fridge still didn't stay cold. We had to defrost the freezer once a week and the fridge would stay cold for a few days, but after we replaced the Thermostat Assembly it worked GREAT! Thank you all for your comments and suggestions it saved us hundreds of dollars having to replace an, otherwise, perfectly fine fridge. Good luck to you if you have this problem, it was sooo fast and easy to replace these parts and totally worth the money.

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

R & R Icemaker Assembly. Took out 3 screws and unpluged Icemaker & replaced with new part. very easy and the service from PartSelect was fantastic.
Very Satisfied,
Ron Martin

Overall, replacing the ice maker wasn't too bad but it wasn't nearly as easy for me as it seems to have been for some. In my case, the fridge was an Amana and the ice maker was mounted in such a way that disconnecting the power connector was difficult. The ice maker had to be completely dismounted before any access to the power connector was even possible. The short power cables made it very difficult to get the ice maker into a position where I had a good view of the power connector enabling me to see how to release it. The only other challenge was the cup that the water line goes into. The replacement ice maker did not come with the right cup - the instructions said to replace the provided one with the old one. No instructions for this procedure were provided and it looked to me like it might involve significant disassembly, something I wanted to avoid for fear of breaking a plastic part on the new ice maker (something I had already done when disassembling the old ice maker). So instead of replacing the cup, I modified the new one to match the old one. This involved removing a cutout on one side and covering a hole on the other. Installation of the new ice maker went fine and the water leak problem was fixed.

Replaced the water valve with the new part by removing 2 screws to allow folding back of the cover, removing 1 screw and pulling valve assembly out. 1 more screw took the two valves apart, unscrewed the water lines, replaced them on new valve (with newer push-in connections it was even easier), reassembled unit, turned the water on, checked for leaks, none found. Works great, was very easy.

I removed the plastic housing inside the top of the rerigerator. Next I removed one hex head screw on the right side that screwed into the back wall using a 1/4 inch nut driver and I removed four hex head screws that screwed up through the temperature control unit into the top. There were two phillips head screws that had to be loosened, but not removed, that also scewed up through the assembly. After the hex head screws were removed, the whole assembly pulls out about an inch then drops down. Once it's down you can remove the adaptive defrost circuit board in the right rear corner of the unit. It's fixed! Thanks

Part selects cataglog for parts selection was very easy to use and the online service and delivery was great.
When I got the part, it was not apparent on how to remove the auger so that I could insert the new connector. There were about about 8 visible screws, with star drive heads that I fortunately had a screwdriver that fit, and I could not tell if I had to remove all of them or only a couple.
I ended up removing all, but still could not separate the dispenser portion which held the front of the auger from the back of the ice bin. I finally figured out that the dispenser door trip lever had to be disconnected and I almost lost it when I removed the metal clip that attached it to the outside of the ice bin when the spring loaded lever tried to unwind. I managed to hold it in place, separate the dispenser holding the auger from the rest of the ice bin and replace the connector. I them got the pieces back in place and was able to refasten the spring loaded lever and then replace the screws.
If the spring loaded lever had unloaded, it would have been tricky to try to replicate the amount of turns (load) on the spring tension.

I removed the water filter located in the refrigerator and replaced it with the bypass plug. The ice cubes and the water dispenser work properly . I am pleased with the outcome especially the price was only $15 and less than 5 minutes of my time. Maytag recommends replacing the water filter every six months at $40 a filter. One can see how this will add up in time. Eventually I am installing an after market water filter in line prior to the refrigerator.

Had to disassemble ice maker to install part. . .

First I rolled the fridge out and unplugged the power cord. I then removed the ice bin. There was one screw to the left under the ice bin rack holding it in. After removing that screw, I could pull the rack out far enough to disconnect the electrical connector. You have to squeeze the wings b-4 you can pull the connector loose. I put the rack on the countertop, removed two screws and the solenoid with plunger came out. I replaced the old solenoid, put everything back together, and realized I probably just saved myself $300. My Wife thinks I'm a Hero again. It works fine now.