JCD2289AEB Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

I ordered the ice dispenser and selenoid door kit, it was easy to repair because I only needed the door. As per the instructions I removed about seven screws and disconnected the power source to the dispenser unit, pulled the unit out
and replaced the door in the two slots. Plugged the power source back into the slot, put the screws back in, now it works like new.
Thank you PartSelect, I received the part in just a couple of days. I recommend your service to everyone. I saved myself a lot of money and will order again on any needed
parts in the future.

Removed screw under ice maker. Tilted ice maker up to remove unit from upper two screws. Disconnected plug at rear of freezer. Attached wiring harness, baler arm and cover from old to new ice maker. Reinstalled in reverse order. Had ice within one hour. Very easy fix.

removed outside water spill tray and removed exterior cover & interior cover exposing the door arm and solenoid. replaced with new parts including spring. Elontronics have a plug which is easy to disconnecct. & reconnect
old solenoid head would not have fit new door arm
and vice versa.
I strongly suggest using the kit.
A Torx type screw driver is required for all screws
on the Jenn-Air

I did a few tests with the old ice maker and determined that it was the ice maker itself that was faulty. The replacement part I ordered exceeded my expectations in the time it took to get the part. I reused the arm, wire harness and clamps from the old icemaker. Then it was a simple install into the bottom freezer compartment, turning on the water supply and bingo...lots of ice cubes.

I removed the one nut screw holding the Ice bucket shelf then removed the Ice Auger Container. Then I lifed the Part containing the Drive Motor. I removed the electrical connection which just plugs into the fridge. Once the Drive motor and container was out of the fridge I removed 4 screws and the Drive motor was out. I disconnected 3 electrical connectors and connected them to the new drive motor. Then replaced the motor and connected the 4 screws. I then installed the yolk on the drive shaft and then put the drive motor container back in the fridge and reconnected the electrical. Installed the nut screw and I was done.

Removed the four screws around the shaft. Removed the support nut on the underside of the enclosure. Pulled the enclosure out of the freezer. Removed the "blade" from the drive shaft - This was somewhat difficult as others have described. Needle-nose vice grips are almost a requirement or you'll never get it off. (Turn clockwise to remove it, as the threads are reversed). Attached the motor to the new enclosure with the four screws. Replaced the enclosure and screwed in the support nut on the underside. The difficulty in this whole process by far is removing the blade from the shaft. It takes a lot of force. At one point I almost gave up thinking that it was manufactured or pressed on. It finally came loose, and then the reinstall was no problem. My suggestion would be to let the motor and parts heat up to room temperature for a bit. It may help. A little spray of WD-40 may help as well.

Replaced refrigerator cooling control. No luck. Replaced freezer cooling control. No luck. Coils were icing up. Unplugged frig and allowed coils to defrost. After more poking around, found that condenser fan was not spinning. Touch it and it'd start. That was definitely in need of replacement. Replacement was easy. Refrigerator is now running as it should.

The actuator rubber pad had hardened over time so that it wouldn't allow the solenoid to retract and stop the flow. To fix: Turn off fuse to fridge. Removed the screws on fountain faceplate. Remove faceplate. Unscrew fountain computer assembly (2 or 3 screws) to access the actuator pad from behind. Unplugged the computer ribbon. Replace black actuator pad.

It works fine now.

First removed the old water filter and replaced it with the filter bypass. Very simple and no tools needed

I reasoned that the water-value was caked with hard water deposits, or perhaps just worn out. I traced the plastic water line to the back of unit, then found the double water valve. I was not "sure" that this was the problem, but I order the part any way and it fixed it!! The removal /installation was pretty easy. First turn off the water supply to the unit. Then loosen and remove the incoming copper pipe from the unit. Remove just two 1/4 in. hex head screws and carefully pull the unit out a bit. Then remove the electrical connectors and the plastic tubing connectors. Just do the reverse to install it. I am very happy with the item ordered from PartsSelect. Perfect. And shipping time was fast too. Thanks guys.

The Ice maker unit had to be removed and the shaft had to also be removed, which required dis-assembling the motor drive. The thickness of the shaft and the bearing fill cup prevents it from simply pushing it in place. Other than that I have Ice.

Removed all 50 screws and replaced the seal. The door still comes open a tad but now it seals all the way. This was my first and last Maytag.

Removed shelf, removed 2 screws, pulled off face plate. Removed electrical connection to circuit board. Removed 3 screws holding part in place and pulled forward. Replaced door flap easily. Hardest part was getting dispenser mechanism back in place with the water tube routed through the right spot.

Only had to remove 2 screws and slide the fan cover panel down and out, then lift out the coil cover panel. Then used a space heater to thaw the coils (block of ice) so that I could get to the defrost heating element (OK, so I was in a hurry. Could have just unplugged for a day an let it thaw on its own). Defrost heating element has just one connector (snaps in place), one thermo-switch (snaps onto coil) and one supporting retainer clip to disconnect. Literally under a minute at this point to remove the old one and replace it with the new one. I recommend two retainer clips to hold the new element in place, since the old element had sagged a lot with only one clip and that could have contributed to its demise. Reinstall the two panels, secure with the two screws, plug it back in, done deal. Works like new again.
I was very impressed with these parts - they were exact and obviously factory replacements. It doesn't get any easier than this.

First I removed the top hinge cover plate. Then removed the three screws in the top hinge. I lifted the door off the lower hinge and laid the door on the kitchen counter. I removed the one screw holding the natural door closer part from the bottom of the door and installed the new part with the same screw. I then replaced the lower hinge pin with the new one. It just sets in place. I then repositioned the door and reinstalled the top hinge. the whole job took about 15 minutes after the refrig door had been emptied. The door works like new.