JSD2789GEB Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

I did a few tests with the old ice maker and determined that it was the ice maker itself that was faulty. The replacement part I ordered exceeded my expectations in the time it took to get the part. I reused the arm, wire harness and clamps from the old icemaker. Then it was a simple install into the bottom freezer compartment, turning on the water supply and bingo...lots of ice cubes.

removed outside water spill tray and removed exterior cover & interior cover exposing the door arm and solenoid. replaced with new parts including spring. Elontronics have a plug which is easy to disconnecct. & reconnect
old solenoid head would not have fit new door arm
and vice versa.
I strongly suggest using the kit.
A Torx type screw driver is required for all screws
on the Jenn-Air

I removed the one nut screw holding the Ice bucket shelf then removed the Ice Auger Container. Then I lifed the Part containing the Drive Motor. I removed the electrical connection which just plugs into the fridge. Once the Drive motor and container was out of the fridge I removed 4 screws and the Drive motor was out. I disconnected 3 electrical connectors and connected them to the new drive motor. Then replaced the motor and connected the 4 screws. I then installed the yolk on the drive shaft and then put the drive motor container back in the fridge and reconnected the electrical. Installed the nut screw and I was done.

Removed screw under ice maker. Tilted ice maker up to remove unit from upper two screws. Disconnected plug at rear of freezer. Attached wiring harness, baler arm and cover from old to new ice maker. Reinstalled in reverse order. Had ice within one hour. Very easy fix.

I ordered the ice dispenser and selenoid door kit, it was easy to repair because I only needed the door. As per the instructions I removed about seven screws and disconnected the power source to the dispenser unit, pulled the unit out
and replaced the door in the two slots. Plugged the power source back into the slot, put the screws back in, now it works like new.
Thank you PartSelect, I received the part in just a couple of days. I recommend your service to everyone. I saved myself a lot of money and will order again on any needed
parts in the future.

unpluged frig, removed rear cover removed 120v supply connector, removed three fan support screws.Changed fan blades to new motor unit installed fan support screws,installed 120v connector plug frig in, test fan installed rear cover .....

I reasoned that the water-value was caked with hard water deposits, or perhaps just worn out. I traced the plastic water line to the back of unit, then found the double water valve. I was not "sure" that this was the problem, but I order the part any way and it fixed it!! The removal /installation was pretty easy. First turn off the water supply to the unit. Then loosen and remove the incoming copper pipe from the unit. Remove just two 1/4 in. hex head screws and carefully pull the unit out a bit. Then remove the electrical connectors and the plastic tubing connectors. Just do the reverse to install it. I am very happy with the item ordered from PartsSelect. Perfect. And shipping time was fast too. Thanks guys.

The actuator rubber pad had hardened over time so that it wouldn't allow the solenoid to retract and stop the flow. To fix: Turn off fuse to fridge. Removed the screws on fountain faceplate. Remove faceplate. Unscrew fountain computer assembly (2 or 3 screws) to access the actuator pad from behind. Unplugged the computer ribbon. Replace black actuator pad.

It works fine now.

First removed the old water filter and replaced it with the filter bypass. Very simple and no tools needed

Removed all 50 screws and replaced the seal. The door still comes open a tad but now it seals all the way. This was my first and last Maytag.

Followed the directions included with the parts, which were exact and well illustrated. If you are comfortable working around circuit boards and electrical connectors (with the power OFF, please!), then you can do this repair. Why electronics on this repair? Because you have to unplug a board to get to the parts, and disconnect the connectors to the solenoid. But again, the directions were fabulous, and I'm almost looking forward to needing to use PartSelect again. Almost.

Only had to remove 2 screws and slide the fan cover panel down and out, then lift out the coil cover panel. Then used a space heater to thaw the coils (block of ice) so that I could get to the defrost heating element (OK, so I was in a hurry. Could have just unplugged for a day an let it thaw on its own). Defrost heating element has just one connector (snaps in place), one thermo-switch (snaps onto coil) and one supporting retainer clip to disconnect. Literally under a minute at this point to remove the old one and replace it with the new one. I recommend two retainer clips to hold the new element in place, since the old element had sagged a lot with only one clip and that could have contributed to its demise. Reinstall the two panels, secure with the two screws, plug it back in, done deal. Works like new again.
I was very impressed with these parts - they were exact and obviously factory replacements. It doesn't get any easier than this.

Removed shelf, removed 2 screws, pulled off face plate. Removed electrical connection to circuit board. Removed 3 screws holding part in place and pulled forward. Replaced door flap easily. Hardest part was getting dispenser mechanism back in place with the water tube routed through the right spot.

The Ice maker unit had to be removed and the shaft had to also be removed, which required dis-assembling the motor drive. The thickness of the shaft and the bearing fill cup prevents it from simply pushing it in place. Other than that I have Ice.

First, I shut off the water going to the refrigerator, then removed the ice bin. Then I loosened the two screws on the top of the ice maker (the one toward the front was a little tricky, since you can't see it at all), then removed the screw that fastens the lower bracket to the side of the frig. Then I lifted up on it slightly to remove it from the two upper screws, then unplugged the wiring harness from the side of the refrigerator and lifted the whole unit out of the frig.

I then removed the plastic cover on the front of the ice maker, pressed on the tab to remove the wiring harness from the old ice maker, and installed it on the new ice maker. I then removed the metal arm from the old ice maker and installed it on the new unit as well. The last part that I moved from the old ice maker to the new one was the lower bracket, as the bracket on the new ice maker was bent during shipping.

Once those parts were swapped, I put the plastic cover on the new ice maker, plugged the wiring harness back into the side of the frig, routed the fill tube into the back on the ice maker assembly, and set the unit back on the two upper screws. I then put the screw back in the lower bracket, tightened the two upper screws, and then put the ice bin back in and turned the water back on. After a couple of hours, I threw out the first couple of batches of ice and it is now working as it had in the past.

I also noticed, when looking at the old ice maker, that the black plastic coating was coming off the ice cube tray, so it was a good time to be replacing it anyway. Overall, a very easy job (I was prepared for swearing, parts being slightly off, etc.) and it would have been a shame to have paid someone to do it.