JCB2388ARB Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

I did a few tests with the old ice maker and determined that it was the ice maker itself that was faulty. The replacement part I ordered exceeded my expectations in the time it took to get the part. I reused the arm, wire harness and clamps from the old icemaker. Then it was a simple install into the bottom freezer compartment, turning on the water supply and bingo...lots of ice cubes.

where the wires crossed at the start relay, 20 years of vibration allowed them to short out and burn out the start relay ..since i have 2 identical fridges i switched the run capacitor to determine it was'nt bad too...ordered a start relay wednesday nite and got it friday morning...cold fridge by noon...good service and the part was exactly the same as the original....

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

The factory installed fill tube was formed and molded, hard plastic. Nothing like the replacement part or the one depicted in the install instructions.To remove it, I had to grip the exterior water tube module with a pair of Visegrip pliers, twist and pull as hard as possible, to expose a section of fill tube. I then had to cut through the tube with a hacksaw to remove the module and flange that secure it to the access hole. From the inside, I removed the ice maker and fan shield to expose the remaining section of fill tube. Using a section of copper pipe and a hammer, I was able to drive the tube through the back wall of the appliance. Fitting the new tube was easy. However, it is too short to reach the fill cup. I fashioned a section of the old tube to create an extension which I inserted in the new part. And, much to my surprise, it actually works!

No repair needed. I had only to wash the new ones and use them.

Replaced refrigerator cooling control. No luck. Replaced freezer cooling control. No luck. Coils were icing up. Unplugged frig and allowed coils to defrost. After more poking around, found that condenser fan was not spinning. Touch it and it'd start. That was definitely in need of replacement. Replacement was easy. Refrigerator is now running as it should.

Removed all 50 screws and replaced the seal. The door still comes open a tad but now it seals all the way. This was my first and last Maytag.

The Ice maker unit had to be removed and the shaft had to also be removed, which required dis-assembling the motor drive. The thickness of the shaft and the bearing fill cup prevents it from simply pushing it in place. Other than that I have Ice.

First I removed the top hinge cover plate. Then removed the three screws in the top hinge. I lifted the door off the lower hinge and laid the door on the kitchen counter. I removed the one screw holding the natural door closer part from the bottom of the door and installed the new part with the same screw. I then replaced the lower hinge pin with the new one. It just sets in place. I then repositioned the door and reinstalled the top hinge. the whole job took about 15 minutes after the refrig door had been emptied. The door works like new.

Only had to remove 2 screws and slide the fan cover panel down and out, then lift out the coil cover panel. Then used a space heater to thaw the coils (block of ice) so that I could get to the defrost heating element (OK, so I was in a hurry. Could have just unplugged for a day an let it thaw on its own). Defrost heating element has just one connector (snaps in place), one thermo-switch (snaps onto coil) and one supporting retainer clip to disconnect. Literally under a minute at this point to remove the old one and replace it with the new one. I recommend two retainer clips to hold the new element in place, since the old element had sagged a lot with only one clip and that could have contributed to its demise. Reinstall the two panels, secure with the two screws, plug it back in, done deal. Works like new again.
I was very impressed with these parts - they were exact and obviously factory replacements. It doesn't get any easier than this.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

This is an easy repair. It took me longer to remove the bins off the inside of the door and clean then up, then the actual repair. Remove the top hinge trim 1 Phillips screw. After the hinge trim is removed you'll see 3 hex screws. Remove the 3 screws. Hold and open the door half way, and lift up on the door. The door is not heavy. Use your kitchen table as a work bench. Place the door flat on the kitchen table . On the bottom of the door you'll see the "CLOSER" One screw removes it. Reverse operations and reassemble. Note: Put a little Vaseline grease on the pivot point. Thats it ... 15 minutes and your done plus you saved a $65.00 service call.

opened door, put in shelf then closed door

Removed the light bulb and shield, no tools needed.

Removed the bottom shelf of the refrigerator and the top meat drawer. My 12 year old inserted the light bulb and shield, then we replaced the shelf and drawer.

Very easy.

First I compared the old parts and new parts to see if I had ordered the right thing then I inserted the new stop into the door. Since the stop has a lip that needs to fit into the slot I the door, I used a hammer to push the part up so it would lock into the hole. Very Simple