JFC2089HPR11 Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

First I looked at new replacement part, saw what held the part to the frig. Then removed the crisper drawers and vegie drawers and related support pieces. Used socket wrench to take out three screws and started so remove endcap. Realized endcap was attached to a piece that controls air flow to drawer, located supporting screw, removed and entire assembly came right out. I fumbled my way through the linking mechanism being very careful not to force and break anything. Once I figured out how all this worked, it went back together in a few minutes. Replaced the four screws that held the 2 pieces (endcap and airflow) to frig, replace drawer slid, replaced all draws. Done 30 minutes, start to finish. I found Customer Service VERY helpful while ordering piece, couldn't believe it was under $10 and fit exactly! Thanks PartSelect.com!

I removed the ice maker assembly from the freezer compartment (four nuts/ nut driver) and unplugged the wire harness. I discovered the nature of the problem and I went on the Internet to look for replacement parts expecting I'd have to buy the entire ice maker. When I found PartSelect.com I looked through the pictures of the parts available for my ice maker. I found the correct part quickly and easily. And having an acurate photo on the site, I was able to match all the key features of the mold I had with the one on the screen. I ordered the part, and installed it the day it arrived with just a Phillips screwdriver and a nut driver. It functions perfectly.

I took out the ice collection box and auger to get access to the three screws holding the ice maker assembly against the left wall of the freezer. You can use a screwdriver or a nut driver. I then unpluged the assembly and wiggled it loose from the water fill tube. I assumed that unplugging the unit would disable the water valve but I put a plastic tub under the fill tube just in case. I studied the assembly on the kitchen table for a few minutes before I disasembled it. After removing a snapon plastick cover I removed three or four screws on the gearbox and was able to pull and wiggle the parts apart. The heater contacts have rubber O rings so you have to be firm pulling the mould out of and into the gearbox mount. Make sure it is fully seated. On reassembly note that the ice kicking arm is notched so it fits into the gearbox only one way and it helps to have it in position when you screw the gearbox back on. I also found the plastic ice guide that fits on top of the mold a little awkward in snaping back together. Make sure its fingers space evenly with the ice kicking arms.

Ordered a new filter cover, received in 2 days and installed it in about 5 minutes. Worked perfectly.

Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!

Remove the light cover. Use a flat head screw driver to push in the tabs on the back of the program mount and pull down to expose the computer board. The Thermistor is clipped on under the vent holes on the right side. Cut both wires to remove the old thermistor strip a 1/4 inch off the remaning wires and the new thermistor wires twist both ends together crimp on the wire caps snap in the new thermistor reinstall the program board until the retainer clips snap into place, slide the light cover back on.

Removed screws from cover tested for power to motor found power was on to motor but motor did not work. I went to your web site was able to locate part in about 5 minutes . Even with over night shipping the part came to about $50,00, far cheaper tha a service call would have been.

Thanks John Paulsell

Turned old one until it snapped out. Replaced it with a turn.

I opened the freezer door and peeled out the freezer gasket, inserted the new gasket, and closed the door. I repeated this same process for each of the French doors on the refrigerator. This was very easy to do. The only issue is the replacement gaskets don't seem to have any better stick or magnetic hold than the original gaskets, so I'm not sure the repair will improve the energy efficiency / performance of the appliance.

Turn water and refrigerator off, use hair to thaw the ice maker filler tube, then remove the filler tube inside the freezer. Next remove the water supply line cover plate in back of the refrigerator. Now remove the speed clip at the white pvc elbow and pull out the supply line. Next, grasp the pvc elbow with pliers and pull hard to remove. The new filler tube is a 1 piece design (filler tube and elbow combined) and needs to be cut to the proper length. Mark it inside the freezer, remove it and cut to length. Now coat the outside flange with caulk or PU glue and snap into the opening. Put the speed clip on the elbow first and center it. Ensure that the spreader insert is in place in the plastic tube, then slide the supply line into the elbow untill completely engaged. Replace cover.

Pushed the hinge pins aside and removed the old lid.. Reversed the process to install the new lid

Took two times getting the correct part, however after getting the correct part it took about 10-minutes to replace. Had to take the fan out. When you put the new drip pan in make sure it is positioned so that the guides on the pan aligns with slots in the bottom refrig brace, otherwise back pannel will not align correctly. The fan is very easy getting aligned in the new tray. May take a little effort. I do not know why the pan on a refrighterator that is less than 5-years old could start breaking into many pieces.

Pantry Cover:

I just slided out the tray, and unscrewed the left pantry panel that was broken, and replaced it with the new one, then put in the new cover after sliding the trays back in.

Ice Maker:

I unplugged the power connector in the back, unscrewed the ice maker with a flat screw driver (3 screws), slide it out, and then unplugged the wiring from the old ice maker and put it into the new one, mounted the new ice maker back in, make sure the lever is working, and then closed the freezer to let it cool down so that water can start flowing to it when it becomes cold enough (took about a good hour or so before water started filling the ice maker). Once the freezer was cold enough, water started filling the ice maker, and it begin making ice again.

Ok, pretty easy repair when the parts are correct (first part was faulty, parts select quickly sent me a new one)

First is removal, these tubes are in there very tight, they can be pulled out but weaken the lines and it is not likely to work without severly stretching the line to the point of breakage, if you have to cut them do so carefully and take off as little tubing as possible as you need the length to feed from top to bottom.

Once you have cut all the lines, or pulled them out (I was able to get 2 out without cutting) then make sure the edges are smooth, attach the inlet valve to the plate and just push them tightly into the new valve making sure you route the lines correctly.

Turn everything on and run the water line to see if it works. If no leaks, screw it back to the refrigerator and you are good to go. Takes maybe 20 minutes at most.

First I removed the Ice bin, I then loosened the ice bin rail under the ice maker and removed the screw that attached the bottom of the ice maker to the side of the fridge. I unplugged the power to Ice Maker from the back of the fridge and unscreewed the two screws that secured the ice maker to the fridge. This allowed the Ice Maker to be removed from the fridge. To replace the new ice maker I simply repeated the steps in reverse.