IPT104302 Inglis Refrigerator - Instructions

After disconnecting the electricity. I followed the instructions as indicated in the "HOW TO" article on the website. I used a steel putty knife and pried the light switch out of its retaining hole. I worked the right side the most since this is the side with the retaining clip. After I removed the switch I transferred the two electrical outlets to the new switch and easily snapped it into place. Engaged the electric power and tested the switch.

disconnected el. power to fridge. pried out broken switch with small screwdriner and pulled out w/water pump pliers. installed new switch and pressed into opening.

Popped the old one out with a kitchen knife and popped the new one back in. It tool less than 15 seconds!!

My owners manual said to unplug fridge from elec outlet, use a kitchen knife to gently pry off the switch plate
(manual had a pictoral example), unclip the two wire, replace with on new switch and replace the switch. Close
door and plug back in. Open door to check that the lite
works. Walla! It did. Thanks!

Sincerely, Ron Marshall, Billings, MT

I pried the old one out with a screw driver and pushed the new one in. I expected instructions in the box it came in but there were none.

shook bottle and painted waited a day and repeated

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Please bear in mind I am 65 years old & it was harder to get up & down off the floor then to change the switch. Was very easy - watched video, unplugged unit. I used the putty knife at the right front corner to work loose, when it came loose had to loose the left side a little. The unit pulled out easily. detached the wired that had a single plug with 2 prongs on it. Attached the plug, pushed new switch into place. There was no way you could place wires on wrong prong. When done, plugged refrigerator back in & checked if working. I CAN SEE THE LIGHT and the food in the freezer now. Thank you for making an easy repair.

Replaced the start relay in about 5 minutes and plugged the fridge in and it started working. Easy repair to get fridge working again.

Just replaced the old Push-On Start Relay and it started to work again.

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

The repair was very easy, unplug ref. open freezer door, and remove base plate, then remove screws on back plate. I had to tilt top of back plate to remove from freezer. This gives you access to the evap. fan Pull of the three wires, and remove screws from fan bracket, which bolts to the back of ref. Remove fan motor from bracket (2) screws, remove motor, and put replacement motor on bracket, pull fan blade off old unit and push on new motor shaft. Reverse the installation, and you are done. Pretty easy.

1. Turn thermostat down to ensure cooling cycle turns on. Open freezer compartment and listen for air flow/fan. If no air flow or fan, but compressor seems to be working, then proceed to next steps. 2. Turn thermostat up to shut off refrigerator cooling cycle. 3. Open freezer and remove wire shelf (if installed). 4. Using nutdriver or socket set, remove screws securing metal panel on the back wall of the freezer interior. 5. Pull metal panel out to expose evaporator fan and evaporator coil. 6. Ensuring area around fan is clear, turn thermostat down to again start cooling cycle and check if fan operates - if not, then fan needs to be replaced. 7. Turn off refrigerator and unplug from electrical outlet. 8. Order replacement fan (unless you happen to keep one in stock). 9. Remove two screws securing fan and fan bracket assembly to back wall of freezer, note wire connections to fan (red, white and green), disconnect wires and remove fan assembly. 10. Gently pull off fan blade, it is a compression fitting. 11. Remove two screws holding back and front fan brackets together and remove fan motor. 12. Remove rubber gasket from front and back of old motor and insert then on the new replacement fan motor (these rubber gaskets align to openings in the fan brackets, thereby holding the motor in place when installed back into the brackets). 13. Reinstall fan brackets onto new motor matching how the old motor was assembled. 14. Press the fan blade onto the new motor shaft. 15. Reinstall fan motor assembly onto back wall of freezer. 16. Reconnect wires to new motor as they were previously connected to old motor. 17. Reinstall back wall metal panel that covers the fan motor assembly and evaporator coil. 18. Reinstall wire shelf (if applicable). 19. Plug refrigerator in and adjust thermostat to normal setting to initiate cooling cycle. 20. Open freezer and listen for fan and airflow, if you hear it operating correctly, then close freezer and refrigerator and confirm temperatures after refrigerator has cycled through one full cooling cycle - adjust thermostat as necessary. 21. Tell your spouse or significant other that for less than fifty dollars you just saved the price of replacing the refrigerator.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.